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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a piece of pear I had roughed down and put aside. Not easy wood to turn. Needs sharp tools.

I was inspired by recent projects using pear by duncsuss and ghost5 so decided it was time I did something with my piece.

The piece was about 7in long so I purchased a 6in pepper mill kit from Woodcraft, the style with a shaft.

I went for a simple shape. Duncsuss had a lot more details in his pepper mill.

I decided to use a wax finish. My local turning club has a member who makes his own micro-crystalline wax, wipe on and buff off. Easy - if the woodturning gods are shining on you. They were not shining on me today. I was buffing the head separate from the body, the buffing wheel knocked it out of my hand and it hit the lathe bed. Crap, a big ding. :thumbdown:

Wood Vase Beige

I looked at the instructions and did not have a 1 1/16in drill for the main hole and did not want to drill a bit hole just for the brackets.

So I drilled 1in hole, filed slots for the brackets and drilled 3/8in holes for the ends of the brackets. Technically drilled the small holes first on the drill press and the 1in dia hole on the lathe.

Product Wood Fashion accessory Wheel Metal

Overall view of one side.

Metal Ceramic Beige Art

View of the other side.
Ceramic Wood earthenware Vase Art

I like the grain. Not sure if I like the wax, l will need to see how it holds up over time.

This kit was easier to use than the Crush-Grind shaftless kit I used in a couple of earlier pepper mills. I will be buying other kits like this, perhaps the 8in long. This feels a bit short, but I wanted to work with the piece I had already roughed down.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Looks very nice. I love the look of the wood beautiful color.
 

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Ouch on the ding from the buffing wheel (I've done it several times, somehow I managed to remember to keep a good grip on the last couple of pieces.)

You made a very pleasing form, I think anyone who has modern or Scandinavian-style dining furnishings would choose yours over my "traditional" shaped one.

My next step will be to reduce the removed material between the top & bottom so the grain pattern flows with less interruption across the break. If I get the method right, I'll offer it as an addendum to Mike Hawkins' great tutorial.
 

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I like it! For some reason, I prefer the shaft style. I dunno why, maybe its the adjustment knob on top.:thumbsup:

I have a finished FBE pizza cutter handle with the exact same ding and I aquired it the exact same way! Reminds me, I need to get on remaking that. The wife asked for a pizza cutter months ago and after the ding I got discouraged and havnt touched it since.
 

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I like the simple design. As far as the ding, remove the wax with mineral spirits, let it dry and then try the hot iron method (no steam) on a wet rag over the effected area. I didn't think it would work to raise the crushed fibers until I tried it. Just use the very tip of the iron.
 

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.......
My next step will be to reduce the removed material between the top & bottom so the grain pattern flows with less interruption across the break. ....
Sorry I don't understand what you mean. Just curious for when I finally get around to making one.
 

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Sorry I don't understand what you mean. Just curious for when I finally get around to making one.
Let's say you were to make pencil marks every inch up the length of the blank after rounding it but before parting the top from the bottom.

Two of those lines are going to end up much closer together -- you have to allow for the kerf thickness of your parting tool, and the length of the tenon that will mate into a hollow in the other part of the peppermill. (The tenon keeps the top & bottom aligned as you grind pepper.)

Losing maybe 1/2" this way can result in grain & figure not lining up the way it was originally. I'm hoping to reduce the "lost wood" to the thickness of my thin-kerf parting tool in an attempt to keep the grain & figure matching across the break.
 

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As far as the ding, remove the wax with mineral spirits, let it dry and then try the hot iron method (no steam) on a wet rag over the effected area. I didn't think it would work to raise the crushed fibers until I tried it. Just use the very tip of the iron.
Great idea! I'll see if I can use this technique to get the ding out of a piece I made.
 

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I just noticed how you drilled two screw holes instead of the larger 1 3/4" hole on the bottom. Dunno why I didnt catch that earlier. Very cool!:thumbsup:
 

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Turning Wood Into Art
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I like it Dave. Pitty about the ding. One of the guys at my turning club turned a bowl and I'm guessing it might have slipped as he took it off the chuck and got a bed dent in it. I did not notice till I uploaded the pic to the club Facebook page.

Can't wait till your next one. The pear looks good
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the comments. Too late to fix the ding. I had to take this later that day to give to the recipient. Like a normal turner, I had to show the recipient the "pre-disastered" aspect. :laughing:

The recipient liked it and now wants a salt grinder to go with it. Good job I have more of the pear available. :icon_smile:
 

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Repeat customers. That is always a good thing!!!

As I have never done salt or pepper I have no idea if the mechanisms are the same or not but hope you do another WIP
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As I have never done salt or pepper I have no idea if the mechanisms are the same or not.
The mechanism looks very similar. The difference is the material.

For a salt grinder, a ceramic material is desired which will not rust.

I have just returned from a trip to purchase this at the local Woodcraft store.

Ceramic mechanism
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082428/31359/Salt-Mill-Mechanisim-8-Ceramic.aspx

Pepper mechanism - stainless steel, like the one in this thread.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2001159/2290/pepper-mill-grinder-mechanism-6-stainless-steel.aspx

The ceramic mechanism could be used for either salt or pepper.

It seems there are a number of gourmet salts on the market which are ground for each use. My wife likes to purchase the Himalayan salt. Likely expensive and not worth the money, but not having a domestic argument over the purchase is perhaps the value. :laughing:
 

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Dave nice looking mill. I have had the same problem with the buffing process. I have always had time to sand the ding back out on the lathe however it is still extra work after you have finished it. I'm a little surprised that you got by without the 1 1/16" bit. I don't believe I could get the mechanism installed in a smaller hole.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dave nice looking mill. I have had the same problem with the buffing process. I have always had time to sand the ding back out on the lathe however it is still extra work after you have finished it. I'm a little surprised that you got by without the 1 1/16" bit. I don't believe I could get the mechanism installed in a smaller hole.
Tom
Thanks.

For the future I may just place a rubber mat over the lathe bed - just in case.

I mentioned in my initial post that I cheated a little since I did not have the 1 1/16in bit. The steel collar fitted in the 1in hole. The bracket which holds the spring above the collar did not. So I just filed a slot on either side to accommodate the bracket.

I did not take a picture of this before I assembled the mill.

I have now ordered the 1 1/16in bit so may use this on the next mill.
 

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Dave Paine said:
Thanks. For the future I may just place a rubber mat over the lathe bed - just in case. I mentioned in my initial post that I cheated a little since I did not have the 1 1/16in bit. The steel collar fitted in the 1in hole. The bracket which holds the spring above the collar did not. So I just filed a slot on either side to accommodate the bracket. I did not take a picture of this before I assembled the mill. I have now ordered the 1 1/16in bit so may use this on the next mill.
I und

I understand now. I bought a drill bit for installing the drive plate. It's something like a 29/32".
Tom
 
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