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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its all oak, found some scraps on a jobsite figured would be perfect to try this out before I bought wood for a nice one. Heres progress so far. I don't have a table saw so boards are not perfect but I make it right with the handheld belt sander after dry. Can't wait for the next steps tomorrow. I am excited






 

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Couple of things. Try and wipe off the squeeze out with a damp rag or sponge before it sets up, much easier. Or let it set just a bit and scrape it off before fully set. Second, oak is not the greatest cutting board material as it is too porous. Next time try maple or cherry. Be careful with the belt sander as it is very easy to create hills and valleys in your board. Otherwise, have fun and be sure and post pics when finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought oak was good for cutting boards because of it being so heavy I thought that meant tight and non porous. Oh well really the technique I wanted to try anyway since I got the wood free. I did let it set about 30 min and scraped most of the glue off. I don't have a planer or anything so I have to do the best I can with the belt sander then move to the RO sander. And I will post pics hopefully I have it done this evening.
 

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+1 with Sawdustfactory, white oak is rather porous for cutting board, especially end grain. Red oak is even worse.

This is magnified end grain from Phind's excellent site.

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/

Note the small holes, these are the open pores characteristic to white oak and some other species.

These have the potential for small food particles to be trapped.



Good learning experience.

Good luck with the hand held belt sander. I do not have good luck trying to get a surface flat with a belt sander.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice I should have researched it a little. My dad just sent me a pic of a plane that he just bought me from a fleamarket so ill get to try it. Here is a pic.


 

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You really don't need feet on cutting boards because you don't want to leave them horizontal any longer than you're using them. Always store them on end like a book, or hung on a hook. Even on feet, dampness can collect on the underside. Just sharing my experiences!
 

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Looks good. Love the look of the end grain. And like others have said. Oak isn't the best to use. I found out the hard way. Try using denser woods like maple, walnut, cherry. I even use purple heart, blood wood, and I've even used jatoba.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks good. Love the look of the end grain. And like others have said. Oak isn't the best to use. I found out the hard way. Try using denser woods like maple, walnut, cherry. I even use purple heart, blood wood, and I've even used jatoba.
Thanks. Yea I found out after about the oak but still practice.
 

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I used pine when I was just practicing. Its way cheaper than spending money and wasting wood. So using free oak is prefect. Even if you don't use the cutting board for food it still looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After reading a lot of articles online it seems if you use wax in your treatment it seals the pores and will be fine. Just regular treatments. The treatment I got has beeswax in it. Its made for butchers blocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dry and wiped off. Not bad IMO for my first. Not to get some wood and do it right. This was also my first time to glue anything together.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks can't wait to try one with some proper wood. Mixed colors. I bought my first clamps this weekend to start doing some different stuff. Went with jorgensen from home depot seems to be a good deal for the money after reading on them.
 
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