A learning experience for me!
A long read here. I didn't mean to make it so long but there are several things that can go wrong that might help in making YOUR bowl better than mine.
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Here's the video I went by for this particular bowl. It is simply well taken pictures with no chat. Watch, then read the tips I have on the process, and what I learned to do/or not to do.
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First thing, all boards must be planed smooth.
Boards #1 and 5 MUST be planed the same thickness so the corners of the squares inside the bowl will match. (Mine were a little off)
Boards #2 and 4 MUST be the same thickness, same reason, but not necessarily the same thickness as #1 and 5.
Board #3 (middle) can be any thickness.
The width of the boards must be slightly less than the cutting height of your TS blade. Mine is 3".
The thickness of the lamination will determine the diameter of the of the bowl. In my case about 7". (3-1/2 + 3-1/2)
The length of the boards should be sufficient to allow enough material against the miter gauge for the last 45 degree cut. In my case 28" was BEARLY enough. 32" would have been safer.
The lamination must be cleaned up. Putty knife, belt sander, etc. as best you can, then run it through the planer for a good clean-up.
(I replaced my new planer blades with some old ones for this process, and lost a small piece of my left index finger doing so. Another lesson learned the hard way.)
It may be best to use a backer board for cutting the 45's, as there is a little tear-out which will affect the very center of the bowl.
Cut your 1st 45, flip the lamination and set a stop so the saw blade
centers on the zenith of the triangle being cut.
Soften the edges of your 4 pieces a little and start glue up.
Glue just 2 pieces together, and glue the other 2 pieces separately.
After drying take the 2 assemblies to the belt sander. (40 grit is good) to flatten the faces for the next glue-up.
When the square is dry, clean 1 side good on the BS and it's ready to mount on the face plate. I made a sacrificial oak face plate (1-1/2x4)
screwed it to the steel faceplate and glued the whole assembly to the bowl blank. The rest is up to you.
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Impossible to get a clamp on this shape so here's what I did. The one piece is not ready for final glue-up. I just put it in for the picture.
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.The bottom of the triangle may or may not be straight. More important to align the corners of the inner pieces. It can be flattened later on the belt sander.
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I hope this wasn't too boring and that you can gain by my errors.
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