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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I turned a piece of E R Cedar for a travel mug insert for a gift swap party tomorrow (Christmas in Summer kind of thing). Being in a hurry I tried Mylands Friction Polish but it soaked it up faster that I could apply it, dried, and then wouldn't absorb any more resulting in uneven color. I sanded it off and went with General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish thinking it was a much faster curing than it actually is. Yes I could have read the label BEFORE applying but got the cart before the horse.

My question: Can I go back with Mylands over the Salad Bowl Finish tomorrow or am I going to have to try a ca finish or something else to build a shine? Again, the party is Tuesday night!
 

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I've never used it and not sure how durable it is, but how about shellac/blo/DNA mix. It is suppose to be quick and easy.
 

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I have both the Mylands Friction Polish and the General Finish Salad Bowl Finish but have never tried to apply one on top of the other.

I am not surprised the Mylands absorbed. It is mostly solvent. I would have just applied several coats until I had a complete coat.

I think the General Finish should be able to be sanded off. I would try sanding before applying any other finish.

Plan "B" is any wax, beeswax, paste wax. It will look fine for the presentation, but will fade in days or weeks.

Shellac may be the finish to save the day, as long as the piece will not be exposed to water.

If any exposure to water, try the General Finish Wood Turners Finish, essentially a water based poly. Supposed to dry in a few minutes for each coat, then after several coats, try the micro mesh.
 

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I like Mylands for small items. My process is.
Coat with shellac and let dry about 20 minutes. Dampen some 4-0 with DNA and burnish. Check for any pits/pores. Coat and burnish again if necessary.
You should be able to get a good hard shellac fininsh pretty rapidly.
Try to let it cure a couple of hours. The Mylands is shellac based so even if not fully cured it doesn't matter, you are just building up coats. You should not need any drying time between coats of Mylands as it dries in a few seconds.

Now after all of that I do not know if you can go over the salad bowl finish that quickly or not. Maybe if you burnish it with dry 4-0 before starting back with shellac.

Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I guess I'll sand back just a bit and try Mylands again, because that's what I've got. Hopefully the Salad Bowl Finish will serve as somewhat of a sealer and will allow the Mylands to bite. If it starts to chip or peel in a few days I'll just tell them I bought it at Walmart :). Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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