[Stallonepanerai]

Hello everyone!

Today I stained my new bar. My bar top is all copper except the bar rail is solid cherry. What is the recommended sheen for the clear coat? Should the top bar rail be several coats of high gloss and the outer and inner base of the bar be 2-3 coats of semi-gloss? Or should everything just be semi-gloss. I am using a hvlp gun to spray the lacquer. Since the bar top is all 16oz copper I don't need to worry about condensation stains or spills as much as if it were a wood top. Please see pics below of the bar top and stain color.
Thank you in advance
Corey-

 

[NoThankyou]

First, the amount of light dispersing materials in products like polyurethane is what governs the final sheen. The satin and semi gloss products have something like micro glass beads designed to disperse light and give the desired result. This is why if the product is not stirred frequently during application the semi and satin results are abysmal and seem to be an uneven gloss. The important message here is that only the final coat should be semi or satin. To put several coats of semi or satin only obscures what is beneath.

When looking at your pictures and seeing my favorite logo in the copper area, I could drink at your bar any time. In fact I am flavoring some Ice cubes this very moment with Jameson.

I would say to just do a gloss of several coats and enjoy the protection. The gloss will bring out all of the fine details of the wood that you have worked so hard to present to your "patrons".

 

[Tony B]

I assume you are going to spray pre-cat lacquer. Since the bar top will be subject to spills, I would highly recommend a the first coat be a vinyl sealer for added moisture protection. As for the finish sheen, that is a personal choice of gloss, satin or whatever. It is important to note what @NoThankyou stated above about all coats being built with high gloss/gloss and only the final coat be of your desired sheen if you want to reduce it to semi-gloss, satin or whatever.
Since I rarely use any other finish than High Gloss/Gloss, I only buy High Gloss and also keep on hand what is called a 'flattening agent'. The directions with the product explains how much flattening agent to use if you want the final coat to be knocked down to any level below gloss form a semi-gloss all the way down to a dead flat finish. If you go down to a dead flat finish, it will look like and feel like an oil and wax finish.
I keep using the expression 'High Gloss/Gloss' when it is actually one and the same. Different manufacturers state it either way.

 

[Rebelwork]

Pre-cat T77 for about $35: a gallon..

 

[difalkner]

Ditto on all coats gloss until the final coat, then it's your preference as to the final sheen.

David

 

[Rebelwork]

Gloss and then flat is what we do with epoxy.

 

[Tony B]

Never coated furniture with epoxy, I guess I ought to try it some time. Pretty much only used it as an adhesive or in FG work. I think in Europe it is referred to as GRP (Glass Glass Reinforced Plastic).

 

[Rebelwork]

I'm suggesting ot on the tops only...

 

[Tony B]

@Stallonepanerai
The reason that you build all of your coats using gloss is that you will always be able to see the grain nice and clear. The semi-gloss, satin or whatever as the last coat is to just knock down the sheen.
Imagine looking at a brightly colored picture though a clear glass of water. Then place a very slightly cloudy disc on top of the glass. Then a second cloudy disk on top of that. It wont take long for the picture starts to look cloudy and dull.
So, now if you put clear discs on top of the water glass instead of the cloudy discs the picture will still be clearly visible. The last disc being the cloudy disc (Satin or Semi-gloss) will knock down the sheen.

 

[Tony B]

Hello everyone!

................. I am using a hvlp gun to spray the lacquer. Since the bar top is all 16oz copper............Corey-

I dont know whether you are using the old Nitro Cellulose or not.
I would strongly advise using a vinyl sealer and Pre-cat Lacquer.

 

[Stallonepanerai]

Just applied the last coat of gloss lacquer on the bar rail about 2 hours ago. I brushed all the coats on. Is it a good idea to steel wool or sand the final coat? If so how long? I was thinking of sanding it and applying 1 coat of aerosol spray lacquer of the same brand I use for the brush on. How does this sound?

 

[Stallonepanerai]

Actually change of plans. I decided the bar rail is to glossy. It has about 7 coats of minwax high gloss. What would I need to do to apply a satin or semi on top of that? Just steel wool to knock the shine down and apply 1 coat of satin or semi-gloss?
Thank you very much

 

[Tony B]

The short answer is "Yes". However I would not use steel wool. If you leave any shards behind, eventually they will rust, even under a good coat.
220 grit abrasive paper should do it It's not about knocking down the sheen, It's giving the last/next coat a little tooth to hang onto
If you knock down the sheen and re-coat with another coat of gloss, it will still be gloss and no evidence that the sheen had ever been knocked down

 

[B Coll]

Hello everyone!

Today I stained my new bar. My bar top is all copper except the bar rail is solid cherry. What is the recommended sheen for the clear coat? Should the top bar rail be several coats of high gloss and the outer and inner base of the bar be 2-3 coats of semi-gloss? Or should everything just be semi-gloss. I am using a hvlp gun to spray the lacquer. Since the bar top is all 16oz copper I don't need to worry about condensation stains or spills as much as if it were a wood top. Please see pics below of the bar top and stain color.
Thank you in advance
Corey- View attachment 425231

Hello everyone!

Today I stained my new bar. My bar top is all copper except the bar rail is solid cherry. What is the recommended sheen for the clear coat? Should the top bar rail be several coats of high gloss and the outer and inner base of the bar be 2-3 coats of semi-gloss? Or should everything just be semi-gloss. I am using a hvlp gun to spray the lacquer. Since the bar top is all 16oz copper I don't need to worry about condensation stains or spills as much as if it were a wood top. Please see pics below of the bar top and stain color.
Thank you in advance
Corey- View attachment 425231

One additional note on what has already been said. All finishes start as a gloss. Flattening agents are added to create semi gloss, satin, matte, or flat. In addition to slightly obscuring the transparency, fattening agents also soften the finish. Therefore a gloss finish will always be harder than a satin, flat, etc. So for protection I would do several coats of gloss, the last two coats being the sheen of choice. If you have not chosen a finish yet, I would like to suggest Target Coatings conversion varnish. It is a waterborne with excellent abrasion and chemical resistance, outdoor rated, good clarity, and sprays easily. I use it whenever durability is an issue and spray it with a hvlp turbine gun (Fuji)

 

[Stallonepanerai]

Thank you for the reply. Should the 220 grit sandpaper be wet or dry? I also have some fine and ultra fine scotch beige blending pads. Are those good? And is 1 coat of the satin or semi good enough?

 

[Tony B]

One coat of satin should be enough, if not add another coat of satin.
I guess the 220 grit could be either wet or dry. Best to use dry so that if moisture gets trapped in a tight spot, it could mess up you finish. I am going by what most recommended grits are. but the most important grit is what is on the can of finish. The manufacturers know their products best.
Also note on the PDS (Product Data Sheet) or the can, there is usually a 'not more than x amounts of coats' are recommended. Again, the manufacturer knows his products peak performance and limitations.

 

[Steve Neul]

Are you coating the copper too? If so you need a finish suitable for the copper. Just about anything would work on the wood. I wouldn't use nitrocellulose lacquer. It's not very waterproof and yellows with age. If you are coating the copper too I would recommend something like this. Copper - Everbrite, Inc..

 

[Stallonepanerai]

Hi everyone, I am not coating the copper, just leaving it natural. I just sanded the gloss bar rail and it looks great. I like the satin/semi sheen that was created by sanding it. Big difference from the heavy high gloss. One last question and my project will be complete....... since I'm happy with the sheen from sanding do I need to apply a new coat of satin or just leave it the way it is and call it a day? I have a total of 7 or 8 coats on it.
I just want to thank everyone for their help with my project. Couldn't have done it without you!!
Corey-

 

[Steve Neul]

If you are happy with the sheen there is no reason to put another coat on. Usually sanding leaves the sheen blotchy and a satin coating would be uniform. That would be the only reason another coat would be needed.

 

[Rebelwork]

I'd watch putting all those coats on...

I was on a auto body forum one time and a guy said he had put 14 coats of lacquer on the vehicle. Guys says I got a rust spot showing in the fender, Response from the dupont guy, your gonna sand it, repair it and paint it 14 more times..

Too much is too much.