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These have been sitting around for over a month now, on one of them (maple) the Danish oil didn't want to cure for the longest time. Eventually it got to the point where it didn't feel sticky and I thought it would be ok to hit it with the Beall buffing procedure.

First up -- said maple, came from a friend who had several trees removed from around his house just after a big storm had ripped a few limbs off. (Might have been Hurricane Sandy.)

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Second, a piece of cherry burl.

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And last, a piece of maple burl.

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These are great. Question for you though. What do you recommend for food safe finishes? I just turned my first bowl and I used salad bowl finish. Which I've heard is just vegetable oil. Are there other food safe oils / waxes that you like?

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These are great. Question for you though. What do you recommend for food safe finishes? I just turned my first bowl and I used salad bowl finish. Which I've heard is just vegetable oil. Are there other food safe oils / waxes that you like?
Thanks!

When discussing finishes, it's really important to be specific about the brand -- each manufacturer uses names slightly differently.

For example, Watco "Danish Oil" is a mix of boiled linseed oil (BLO), resins and mineral spirits. It is non-toxic when cured.

Tried & True "Danish Oil" is what they call "polymerized linseed oil" (which I believe is simply BLO that's been boiled longer than usual). Again, non-toxic when cured -- and because it has no mineral spirits, quite possibly non-toxic even before it's cured (but I wouldn't drink it.) It finishes differently than Watco brand (which builds up to a shiny finish after a few coats.)

General Finishes "Salad Bowl Finish" is another BLO, resin and mineral spirit mix. The label states "A non-toxic when cured finish." I like it -- but it seems to work just like Watco Danish Oil, so I use them interchangeably.

I've never heard of vegetable oil being used as a finish. The "pure oils" I know of are Mahoney's Walnut Oil (which I've used, it was okay but not spectacular) and Tung Oil (which I haven't used -- watch out for stuff called "Tung Oil Finish" which isn't the same as pure tung oil.) Mineral Oil is "safer than food safe" -- you can drink it from the bottle if you really want to ... often used on butcher blocks.

As I understand it, pure oils do not build up a surface finish and don't get glossy, even when buffed, but they are very easily restored with just another coat of oil wiped on.

My current favourite is Watco Danish Oil. I give bowls several coats, letting it dry in between. If it's still sticky after a day of drying time, that tells me it's had enough. I let it dry completely (this can take more than a week) then buff it with the "3-step Beall system".

I left out the white diamond on the bowl with lots of voids (didn't want to have to pick that white stuff out of the crannies, tripoli doesn't stand out so much!)

HTH
 

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I like'm.

Dave H
 

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They all look great. You have gorgeous woods. I like most the last one, the maple burl. Your finish really made the pretty grains pop. Great job!
 
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