finish on top of oil
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4,690 Posts
I use this stuff over Tung oil. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235 It requires the wood be really sanded well, 400 sometimes 600. It does not build up, but can make a gloss finish if the wood is prepped right. I just popped over to my gallery here, the stuff below was finished with Tung oil and Renaissance Wax. It seems kinda pricey, but a little does go a long way. Wipe it on and buff it off, repeat. I like the natural wood look, oil and wax work for me.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/walnut1.JPG
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/platter1.jpg
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/medium/desk.JPG
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/walnut1.JPG
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/platter1.jpg
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/gallery/data/500/medium/desk.JPG
Hi Daren..
Thanks, I suspected that wax would be the way to go but I am uncertain as to what coatings I could put on top of tung oil. I make snooker and pool cue cases out of exotic hardwoods and the waterproofing and aesthetics of tung oil finish are perfect for my needs. However, trying to get a glossy finish is proving difficult. Do you know if it is possible to put any form of varnish or lacquer onto tung oil? Will it adhere to an oiled surface?
Steve...
Thanks, I suspected that wax would be the way to go but I am uncertain as to what coatings I could put on top of tung oil. I make snooker and pool cue cases out of exotic hardwoods and the waterproofing and aesthetics of tung oil finish are perfect for my needs. However, trying to get a glossy finish is proving difficult. Do you know if it is possible to put any form of varnish or lacquer onto tung oil? Will it adhere to an oiled surface?
Steve...
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4,690 Posts
Yes you can put a varnish on too. I am not speaking from personal experience here though, just logic. They make a product "Tung oil varnish" that contains both ingredients...I would say that would work. http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=860-078 I think a search for "Tung oil varnish" may give you more info.
The pure Tung oil I use cures and is a "finish". When I use wax on the finished wood I am just polishing and shining it and adding a little more protection. I don't think a regular varnish will penetrate the wood and bond as well, that is why I mentioned the product I did (Renaissance Wax). I know my brother does alot of teak work and it is an oily wood (some has been oiled artificially with "teak oil" for years by the customer, he does boat refinishing) I know he uses a special kind of Spar that he thins and it works great. If the other stuff doesn't suit you I can find out his exact technique.
Here is another link with some info. http://www.woodzone.com/articles/wood_finishes.htm#Oil/Varnish Blends
The pure Tung oil I use cures and is a "finish". When I use wax on the finished wood I am just polishing and shining it and adding a little more protection. I don't think a regular varnish will penetrate the wood and bond as well, that is why I mentioned the product I did (Renaissance Wax). I know my brother does alot of teak work and it is an oily wood (some has been oiled artificially with "teak oil" for years by the customer, he does boat refinishing) I know he uses a special kind of Spar that he thins and it works great. If the other stuff doesn't suit you I can find out his exact technique.
Here is another link with some info. http://www.woodzone.com/articles/wood_finishes.htm#Oil/Varnish Blends
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164 Posts
this too is an easy durable finish and is satin,semi and gloss
http://generalfinishes.com/msds-data/GF-Arm-R-Seal_Data_Sheet-062905.pdf
http://generalfinishes.com/msds-data/GF-Arm-R-Seal_Data_Sheet-062905.pdf
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6 Posts
I would NOT put lacquer ontop of tung oil... it makes it look plasticy and will not adhere well. I say use wax and just make sure to buff it down really well. Do what I do and use a 600 on the dry wax, every one allways asks me "how did you get it so smooth and shiny, but not look plasticy"
Tung oil, let that dry and buff it off, then wax, let that dry then sand it with a 600 grit (this will get it hot and the wax will almost rub off, don't worry there is a very thin coat still on the wood, this is what you want) then go over it with a buffing cloth and let it sit for a few hours untill it is totally dry and cool. It will look beautiful, I promise.
Check out my website, I also use Solid exotic hardwoods.
www.jrwoodcrafts.com
your probably finished by now but spar varnish,linseed or tung oil and
turpentine mixed and heated . brush or wipe on liberallty , let set till
tacky, the wipe off . reaply every 24 hours till you have 3 or 4 coats.
you can use more varnish and less oil on each consecutive coat.
Wait about a week then wax with bowling alley wax.
On course grain woods like oak, you can sand between coats ,creates a slurry which fills the grain and leave it smooth as glass. can also
us steel wool to apply . Didn't mean to write a book!!!!!!!
turpentine mixed and heated . brush or wipe on liberallty , let set till
tacky, the wipe off . reaply every 24 hours till you have 3 or 4 coats.
you can use more varnish and less oil on each consecutive coat.
Wait about a week then wax with bowling alley wax.
On course grain woods like oak, you can sand between coats ,creates a slurry which fills the grain and leave it smooth as glass. can also
us steel wool to apply . Didn't mean to write a book!!!!!!!
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