Anybody try his on their end grain cutting board, if so thoughts.
http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
Finish for end grain cutting board
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You only need to look back a few days for the latest update on this thread.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/end-zgrain-cutting-boards-51699/
I didn't see anything in that whole thread related the product I asked about and linked to above. I did see a lot of crap about Ipads however.
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The thread was about using wax vs oil. TomC originally used a wax and did not like the look so switched to an oil which did not darken the wood as much.
The John Boos products are similar. One is wax another is oil. You decide which you want to use.
Many products on the market to maintain cutting board, whether face grain or end grain.
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Kenbo talks about all the steps of making and finishing an endgrain board on this thread. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/how-make-end-grain-cutting-boards-28721/
His oil is a food grade mineral oil. He says that and nothing else. I didn't check the price but I bet it's higher than going to the drug store and buying mineral oil. I buy my mineral oil by the gal on line. You can get it in three different viscosities. Dave got it backwards, the mineral oil made the board dark and the wax muck lighter.
Tom
Tom
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Oops, brain fart. Thanks for correcting.
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Today I just picked up some of this stuff called LIVOS. It's all natural and food safe. Have no idea how it will finish, but worth a try.
http://www.livos.ca/en/
http://www.livos.ca/en/
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The finish I usually use is called Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish. It a beeswax and mineral oil paste. Comes in a large tub and also a smaller 50g size which I include with all my boards.
Are you make flat grain or end grain boards? That makes a difference in what I use. Be careful in what you pay for what you buy. Like the product you were questioning are mineral oil or mineral oil and bees wax. You can get mineral oil at a drug store and probably less cost.svorhees said:
Tom
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Newbie here and to woodworking in general.
I bought a live edge slab of bubinga and have sanded the heck out of it (up to 4,000 micro mesh grit). I have applied the first and second coats of livos oil as suggested by wood seller. I'm not seeing the high gloss shine I was looking for! HELP! How many more coats do I need to do or is there some finish I can put on to achieve this?
I bought a live edge slab of bubinga and have sanded the heck out of it (up to 4,000 micro mesh grit). I have applied the first and second coats of livos oil as suggested by wood seller. I'm not seeing the high gloss shine I was looking for! HELP! How many more coats do I need to do or is there some finish I can put on to achieve this?
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I'm no expert on these boards, but I've made 20-30 and what I find is:
If it's for show; use salad bowl finish (Belhem)
If it's for use: use mineral oil (1 qt. last me a couple of years)
STORE boards on end, like a book. Moisture under the board, even a couple of hours, can warp the board.
If it's for show; use salad bowl finish (Belhem)
If it's for use: use mineral oil (1 qt. last me a couple of years)
STORE boards on end, like a book. Moisture under the board, even a couple of hours, can warp the board.
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Here is something that may be helpful.
An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.
Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.
Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.
Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.
Last I looked, the Booz treatments are mineral oil and/or mineral oil and a wax like paraffin or beeswax. Nothing "magical" about them.
An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.
Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.
Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.
Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.
Last I looked, the Booz treatments are mineral oil and/or mineral oil and a wax like paraffin or beeswax. Nothing "magical" about them.
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I do not think you will get a high gloss finish with just oil.
The best bet for a high gloss finish is a "hard" finish, meaning something which cures hard and sits on the surface.
Salad bowl finish is an example. Behlens or General Finish. I like the GF since it does not go off in the can as easily as the Behlens did for me.
http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=salad bowl finish
If you go with a mineral spirits+ beeswax you may be able to buff the wax, but it will soon fade, just the nature of the wax.
The above link includes a product "George's Club House Wax" which is a commercial mineral oil + beeswax. Easy to use, but a "soft" and not shiny finish.
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I buy mineral oil from the rural feed supply . Far cheaper and if needed , comes in a large quantity container.
20 liter as I recall
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With minimum skills and eye hand coordination a coating of paraffin can be applied with a propane torch that will last the board a lifetime. If the 15 cent paraffin bar flames on occasion the heat being applied is just about right. One box of Gulf Wax canning paraffin containing 4 bars will probably last you a lifetime also.
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