[bjones515]

Been working for about a month

 

[mdntrdr]

Looks well built! :thumbsup:

Did you allow for table top expansion/contraction? :smile:

 

[BassBlaster]

I love the old country table design. I think if I ever make a dining table it would be a similar design. Your stain is way to dark for my liking. I prefer a more natural look. Other than that, I like!:thumbsup:

 

[bjones515]

This is my first table I have ever built, I am not sure how to allow for top movement. What I have done is 3 2x12 joined together hand planed and block sanded, it is more less sitting on the frame, it has 3 cross runners pocket screwed to the bottom of the top inside the frame, and the top and runners are like a drop in it has very little movement. On the frame all half lap mortise and tenons are hand cut with a cross cut saw and a good old chisel.

 

[tonyuno]

Nice , always like the more rustic look. Usually the top is fixed to the base elongated holes to allow for movement.

 

[JMartel]

Super easy way to allow for movement is with figure-8 fasteners.

http://www.rockler.com/desk-top-fasteners

On your table, you would put 2 or 3 on each of the shorter ends, and then when the table expands and contracts, they will rotate, but still hold the top on.

 

[Noek]

I really like it, I like the rustic rough look.

 

[Maylar]

I like your joinery too. Nice job.

 

[Hawker 1]

I like it and bet you are very proud of it, you should be .
Marry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

 

[bjones515]

Thanks guys I gotta about a week to get all of the poly work done to deliver it this weekend

 

[Al B Thayer]

Thanks guys I gotta about a week to get all of the poly work done to deliver it this weekend

Do you have to use poly? Wouldn't another finish be faster easier and make the grain pop. Just sayin.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.

 

[wood shavings]

I agree with Al about the finish there are other options that will give it a better appearance. Problem with poly is that it will show the first ding that comes your way especially with the dark stain and if it a scratch it is hard to fix with out making a big project. Might try BLO or mineral oil both are easy to apply.

Jerry

 

[Al B Thayer]

I agree with Al about the finish there are other options that will give it a better appearance. Problem with poly is that it will show the first ding that comes your way especially with the dark stain and if it a scratch it is hard to fix with out making a big project. Might try BLO or mineral oil both are easy to apply.

Jerry

Hell has just froze over.

Thank you Jerry.

Nails only hold themselves.

 

[CNYWOODS]

Poly is an excellent choice for a table top. It's durability is hard to beat. Water based will dry much quicker. Save the non drying oil for cutting boards.

 

[cabinetman]

Poly is an excellent choice for a table top. It's durability is hard to beat. Water based will dry much quicker. Save the non drying oil for cutting boards.

+1. :yes: Some are as durable as oil base polyurethane or lacquer. Oil base may not be cured when delivered. Clients aren't too dependable in keeping up with an oiled finish.

Table looks good, and sturdy too.

.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Again it depends on how the oil finish is applied. You have to disregard the print on the back of the can and do it like they did 100 years ago. I use a wipe on varnish and my grand kids don't hurt it a bit. After 20 years I refinished the tops and it was a snap. But the best thing was the fact that during those 20 years they looked there best and the beauty of the wood was there for all to enjoy.

Go ahead and recommend a water based finish to a beginner. Many of the pros can't get the results they want out of them.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Poly is an excellent choice for a table top. It's durability is hard to beat. Water based will dry much quicker. Save the non drying oil for cutting boards.

I can think of only one oil that doesn't dry and it has not been discussed in 20 threads. Pretty sure you it will be very hard to buy too.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.

 

[bjones515]

I'm pretty young and newer to woodworking, I'm lacking the precision skills of fine finishing. I have used some oils and wax on my butcher blocks and cutting boards, linseed oil on some of my smaller projects. But mainly always used oil based polyurethane on everything else. I have 3 thick coats on top with prep inbetween, and 2 on the frame. So far so good. They wanted the vintage rustic look so I'm not worried about it showing a few gouges and hand plan marks, it is flat and true. I need a good book or website that explains finishing methods, any recommendations?

 

[CNYWOODS]

Here's a thread. Mineral oil does not dry.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?70588-Does-Mineral-Oil-quot-Dry-quot

Pretty soon solvents will be obsolete in some states. WB finishes have taken huge leaps in the past few years where there counterpart solvents haven't changed.

 

[Al B Thayer]

Here's a thread. Mineral oil does not dry.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?70588-Does-Mineral-Oil-quot-Dry-quot

Pretty soon solvents will be obsolete in some states. WB finishes have taken huge leaps in the past few years where there counterpart solvents haven't changed.

Right along with metric, long zip codes and living on the moon.

Mineral oil is a treatment not a finish. I don't recommend it even for cutting boards.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.