Not familiar with that saw, although I googled it and the images show that the extensions are cast iron?
IMO you could add an extension to each side, but need to be aware of the saw being "tippy", and also aware of the stress being placed on the top where the extensions mount. You may have to support the additional extensions with some auxiliary legs.
I've used different extensions, on different saws in the past, right now I am using CMAN cast/"webbed" extensions on a Delta saw. I had to drill new mounting holes for them, but they work just fine. CMan also made aluminum webbed extensions many years ago, the advantage is the lighter weight for your application which may help with the stress on the top from the additional extensions. To use other brand extensions you will need to insure the length matches up the the front/back length of your existing saw top.
If it were me I would put both extensions on the left side and make a long extension on the right side out of wood.
The top of most saws is 27" from front to back. You might have to drill some mounting holes but you should be able to put an extension from many different brands on the saw. I have Craftsman extensions on a Delta Unisaw.
I did what you are asking about on a old Craftsman 100 tablesaw, two on the right side, one on the left side. I wasn't smart enough 40 years ago to know that I should add support under the far left edge, BUT my fence rails were on the front AND rear of that old saw, so they gave it the support rather than a brace or vertical leg. If your fence rails are 1/4" or 3/16" thick then maybe it would work without a brace, BUT better safer than sorrier .....
On my present table saw, with 3 saws bolted together, I have a router tyable extension that's about 18" wide with very little support from the front rail, but it's fine:
If you have two rails front and rear, and secure the extension to the rails, that should be sufficient as in this article:
This is a continuation of Table Saw Enhancement – Attaching Sliding Crosscut Table Without Cutting Down the Rails. Now that I’d removed my existing router table, I needed to relocate it to the right edge of my table saw. Since I use a miter slot on my router table andRead More →
There are two things about cast iron, it is heavy and not that strong. Over tightening can pull the threads out.
Typically either the table or the wings are threaded but not both. I've attached wings to a dozen or so table saws and can't remember which piece had the threads. With two wings on one side there can be a lot of stress on the threads on the table/wing joint. This means that support of the wings is mandatory.
The bolts holding the two pieces together tend to gouge the washer under the bolt head. If you ever unscrew the bolt, the gouged washer will make it almost impossible to align the wing. The suggestion is to purchase washers intended for use with garage door hardware. They are expensive but worth avoiding the headache. I found the hardened washers at my local M&P Ace Hardware.
My 20-year-old Jet was new to me and had 3/4 MDF between the cast iron and a router table. I got a piece of 1/4 carbon steel plate cut to the size I wanted from my local metal mart and moved the router table a bit and just used some scrap angle iron bolted into the fence to hold the plate, countersunk some tapered bolts to hold the plate to the angle iron and now I have a very strong top. If you go my route you're not constrained to whatever tops you can find, plus it will likely be a lot cheaper.
You can add extension tables to your saw until they circle the earth. Craftsman extensions can be had from CL or eBay and come in lots of types and materials from cast iron to aluminum to stamped steel from grid to solid from 8" to 10" to 12" that will likely fit your saw. Lot of choices. Easy to find. Maybe you can buy an entire saw and just take the extension tables off it. You may need to drill new holes. You may need to support the extensions depending on how tippy the configuration ends up. Note the angle bar and box beam providing support for the extension tables I pictured. Only you can judge if the extrusion of your front and rear rails is enough to support whatever you add to it.
Good luck with your changes.
An early iteration of my last saw before a couple changes with a 12" X 27" grid extension on each side as well as a 10" X 27" router extension on the right side of the blade.
Here is my current saw. This saw has a 12" X 27" solid cast extension on the left. On the right side of the blade it has a 12" X 27" solid cast extension, a 10" X 27" router extension as well as one of the original 8" X 27" extensions (can't quite see it in the image) that Craftsman floor model came with. That is a total of 30" of extension tables on the right side.
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!