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Old School
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Too many people to quote, so I'll just ramble and hope I touch on some points in question. Bill's jig took some planning, but it's too involved for me. I'm just a simple guy. The only critical drilling point is the distance from the edge of the door, and the distance from the top or bottom of the door.

From the edge, I also figure half of 35mm (1.375")(1 3/8), which is 11/16". To that I add what is needed from the edge of the hole to the edge of the door. Most of the hinges will work with 3/16". So, if you add 3/16" to 11/16, you get 14/16" or 7/8". That is the distance from the edge of the door to the point of the forstner bit. Don't need a jig for that.

With a simple loose table that can be placed on the drill press, like this:
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All that is necessary is to mark one door for the 7/8". Set the board on top of the DP table and place the door against the fence. Line up the point of the bit to the 7/8" mark, and clamp down the board. That's all that is needed. If a hinge needs 1/4", or less than 3/16", use one door and mark it either 13/16", or 15/16". Simple...no elaborate jigs with writing all over them.

I place the center of the hinge at 3" from the bottom and 3" from the top. That dimension works pretty good for all doors and short doors, like over the fridge, microwave, and stove. So, on top of the fence on either side of the centerline for drilling I have a line for the edge of the door. I just place the door edge on the line. Or, you could make a spring loaded stop block with using a hinge like this. Simply mount the hinge on top of the fence and mount a narrow block on the door side of the hinge. It will flip up and down as a stop.

I wind up using just a full overlay hinge, and changing the overlay with mounting plates. That makes it pretty easy. For frameless cabinets, the overlay is determined by full, half, and partial. This terminology also has a range in mm, but it's easier to understand with how far the hinge side sits on a 5/8" or 3/4" edge of a cabinet.

For you guys that use face frames, it's a whole different bag of worms, because the hinges are set up for inches of overlay. So, you need to do a layout for the doors to know. You may have several different types of hinges in one kitchen. I suggest you lay out the cabinets as they go (or the face frames) and mark off the doors to get the correct hinges.

So, how do you tell from looking at a hinge what the overlay is? What I do is put a mounting plate on it and close the hinge. From that you can see how far the door edge is from the mounting plate (where the plate mounts)...just measure it with a tape measure. That distance is the overlay.








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Really nice, sure looks like it beats what I have been using:



 
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