[info]

I have couple ? on my design .
1st . the shelf dado for the center part .Will this bee a weak joint ? Are should I kreg joint it
?
2nd. then center bottom . Should this be a door or pull out drawer
Sorry for the mad drawing
Thank you
This will be a maple center . hard maple plywood frame and shelf . Top ambrosia maple and frame . Maybe top have Black walnut band ( not sure )

 

[Steve Neul]

When you run the dado, you don't have to run it very deep so it wouldn't reduce the strength of the side panel. I wouldn't use the kreg screws, I would just put finish nails on an angle into the side.

When I make an entertainment center I like to make a few drawers with dividers in it to hold media such as dvd's and cd's so I would rather do that than put a door in the center. Woodworkers Hardware sells tracts to hold such media you could put in the drawers.

 

[info]

How about this . Not real good at this part

 

[Steve Neul]

It looks good to me. I think the end sections I would line bore the sides and dividers and make adjustable shelves. You could also run verticle dado's 3/16" deep and 5/8" wide and use KV255 adjustable shelf tract. I prefer the line bore and use 5mm (3/16") pins.

 

[info]

here is the top
i will also do a round over on edges

 

[info]

It looks good to me. I think the end sections I would line bore the sides and dividers and make adjustable shelves. You could also run verticle dado's 3/16" deep and 5/8" wide and use KV255 adjustable shelf tract. I prefer the line bore and use 5mm (3/16") pins.

thanks
Im very limit on drawing
I now have a ideal what i need to do .
Again Thanks

 

[Steve Neul]

here is the top
i will also do a round over on edges

If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.

 

[tcarter76]

Funny that I just walked in from finishing a TV stand when I saw this thread. It's my first attempt at furniture.

 

[info]

If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.

Are talking about the two ends ? If so are you saying kreg joint them ?

The front and sides . I was going use a 1/4 plywood router bit slot out the walnut then ambrosia maple . Then cut some pylwood strips .Then glue them together .
Not right ?

 

[info]

If you are using solid wood for the ambrosia maple be sure to make the walnut trim on the ends like a breadboard end on a table. This would mean you need to make a tongue and groove joint and not glue the walnut on. Because the grain of the walnut runs perpendicular to the maple when the maple shrinks the top would split if glued. You would just put about three screws into the joint from underneath.

How about this . Not real good at this part

I also have another ?
The bottom trim will be on the front and sides . More for pretty .
With the weight of this center . Should I have another bottom support under center ?

 

[info]

Funny that I just walked in from finishing a TV stand when I saw this thread. It's my first attempt at furniture.

Nice job

 

[Steve Neul]

Are talking about the two ends ? If so are you saying kreg joint them ?

The front and sides . I was going use a 1/4 plywood router bit slot out the walnut then ambrosia maple . Then cut some pylwood strips .Then glue them together .
Not right ?

Anytime you have wood going perpendicular with each other it's best not to fasten it too tight. That is why the breadboard ends are not glued. Kreg screws even if you don't glue it I would be afraid it would be too tight of a joint. What you can expect to happen over time is the maple would shrink in width and the walnut on the end wouldn't shrink in length. If you didn't allow the wood to move it is more likely to split.

As far as the base I normally put a lot of structure under the bottom shelf. It's not seen so you might as well give it plenty of support so the shelf doesn't sag.

 

[info]

I think . I understand . Top tongue and grove all sides . Glue front , back and 45 angles. Do not glue sides due to Expansion of wood

Do I need a router bit for Tongue and groove ? If so can you post a web site so I can order it please ? I'm still learning
Thank you

 

[cabinetman]

With the weight of this center . Should I have another bottom support under center ?

With this drawing, you only need dadoes ¼" deep, with glue and clamps. No need for mechanical fasteners. If you're using Maple plywood for the top, you can glue on the trim edge. Or, you could use any plywood and use a veneer, and glue on the edging. If you are profiling the edge, having an edge that can move will leave some gap at the joint.

Again for this drawing you don't need additional support for the center, as the toe design provides that. As for drawers or doors at the bottom, drawers make more sense, as operating a door and reaching inside that low to the floor is a bit difficult.

.

 

[4DThinker]

Don't forget to consider and then create slots/holes for cables to run. I'd even recommend making the back panel recess in to leave a cavity behind that is big enough for all the cables and a power strip of some sort. Nothing ruins the look of a great table quicker than a few dozen power/hdmi/ethernet cables strung all over it.

 

[info]

The Cabinet will be maple plywood . The frame maple . Top Ambrosia maple band with walnut . That's my plan

 

[info]

Don't forget to consider and then create slots/holes for cables to run. I'd even recommend making the back panel recess in to leave a cavity behind that is big enough for all the cables and a power strip of some sort. Nothing ruins the look of a great table quicker than a few dozen power/hdmi/ethernet cables strung all over it.

Thanks . I was not thinking about that

 

[info]

With this drawing, you only need dadoes ¼" deep, with glue and clamps. No need for mechanical fasteners. If you're using Maple plywood for the top, you can glue on the trim edge. Or, you could use any plywood and use a veneer, and glue on the edging. If you are profiling the edge, having an edge that can move will leave some gap at the joint.

Again for this drawing you don't need additional support for the center, as the toe design provides that. As for drawers or doors at the bottom, drawers make more sense, as operating a door and reaching inside that low to the floor is a bit difficult.

.

Thanks
right now I'm working on the enter cabinet part .
I have Ambrosia maple rough-cut

 

[info]

This is what I finished for today . Still in the rough

 

[info]

Anytime you have wood going perpendicular with each other it's best not to fasten it too tight. That is why the breadboard ends are not glued. Kreg screws even if you don't glue it I would be afraid it would be too tight of a joint. What you can expect to happen over time is the maple would shrink in width and the walnut on the end wouldn't shrink in length. If you didn't allow the wood to move it is more likely to split.

As far as the base I normally put a lot of structure under the bottom shelf. It's not seen so you might as well give it plenty of support so the shelf doesn't sag.

thanks