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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got this idea from a YouTube video (youtube.com/watch?v=B-430x85czU).

Wood Plywood Tool accessory Hardwood Molding


Wood House Square Plywood Scale model


I used 24 pieces of wood.

Wood Textile Quilting Patchwork Rectangle


Cut each cookie with the band saw.

Table Wood Furniture Floor Plywood


After each one was cut free I sanded the end of the block before heading back to the band saw to cut the next.

Machine tool Tool accessory Machine Jointer Tool
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I ended up getting 18 coasters out of the block.

Wood Hardwood Wood block Wooden block Architecture


Architecture Collection Wood Picture frame


This is after the first application of linseed oil. I'll apply a second coat tomorrow. Then after a few days drying I'll start spraying coats of lacquer. Hopefully this will all help it stand up to actual use underneath sweaty cups, cans and bottles.

Games Architecture Wood House Play
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Perfect timing!! I've been looking for this type of idea for some upcoming gifts, not to mention its another way to put my "craft" in the house in subtle ways.

QUESTIONS:

1 - After you cut the coaster free, what did you do to make the 2 surfaces parallel?

2 - When cutting the coasters, what thickness did you choose?


Thanks.
 

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I wood if I could.
Joined
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3,976 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Perfect timing!! I've been looking for this type of idea for some upcoming gifts, not to mention its another way to put my "craft" in the house in subtle ways.

QUESTIONS:

1 - After you cut the coaster free, what did you do to make the 2 surfaces parallel?

2 - When cutting the coasters, what thickness did you choose?


Thanks.
I wasn't too concerned with absolute parallelism. I squared the top side the best I could with the disc sander. Then I used a miter guide when cutting on the band saw. So the top and bottom are close enough to parallel. I believe.

When I get back home I'll measure the thickness. I just eye-balled the fence setting. I wanted them thick enough to avoid warping or fragility but thin enough to look like a coater and not a block of wood. I think they're around 3/8" but i'll measure and get back to you.
 

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Pain in the A$$
Joined
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1,904 Posts
I wasn't too concerned with absolute parallelism. I squared the top side the best I could with the disc sander. Then I used a miter guide when cutting on the band saw. So the top and bottom are close enough to parallel. I believe.

When I get back home I'll measure the thickness. I just eye-balled the fence setting. I wanted them thick enough to avoid warping or fragility but thin enough to look like a coater and not a block of wood. I think they're around 3/8" but i'll measure and get back to you.
No need to measure. Thanks. You ball park is good enough to me. I think I'm going to try some of these when I get a chance. I may try to pick up some exotic scraps from the dealer near me.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No need to measure. Thanks. You ball park is good enough to me. I think I'm going to try some of these when I get a chance. I may try to pick up some exotic scraps from the dealer near me.
I did go ahead and measure. They are right at 7/16" thick and 3" square.

Those look neat! Given that they will be coasters, is there a concern that the end grain will wick in the moisture more than long grain would?
In my mind, yes, there is a concern about that very thing. I'm hoping that my planned finishing schedule of two coats boiled linseed oil topped with around 8 coats of lacquer will seal the wood well enough. Then I'll use contact cement to attach cork sheeting to the bottoms. But only time will tell for sure.

After they're done I may end up using a single coaster for a while to see if it'll hold up to real world conditions before giving any sets away as gifts or selling them. That way I'll know. I don't want anyone to receive a bad product from my workbench. :no:

Worst case, I'll have some decorative tiles to do something with.
 

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I thought that lacquer did not play nice with oil when the oil is the base? Also, doesn't water make lacquer turn milky? I think I'd just use several coats of spar varnish on top of the oil. That stuff is supposed to handle the weather so it should work for just sweaty drink glasses.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I thought that lacquer did not play nice with oil when the oil is the base? Also, doesn't water make lacquer turn milky? I think I'd just use several coats of spar varnish on top of the oil. That stuff is supposed to handle the weather so it should work for just sweaty drink glasses.
I thought so too. But then I read an article in a magazine not to long ago that claims it's OK to apply lacquer over BLO as long as the BLO has had time to thoroughly dry.

And I have a wooden table surface in my shop that I lacquered a couple of years ago. It's had drinks sitting on it many times and shows no rings or other finish damage. Though, I don't generally let water stand on it so it's not a true test of how it would stand up on a coaster.

But now you have me wondering about all of the above. Hmm... I think I'd better research a little more before spraying any lacquer on these. I appreciate the words of caution. :thumbsup: For these particular coasters, I think I may have to take your advice and go with spar varnish. As you pointed out, it is intended to be used outdoors.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going to use in the GAZEBO?????,,,,,,Pictures of the Gazebo, (wood) be nice. hehehe.

Dale in Indy
Yeah, I hear ya'. I was actually hoping to get some more done to the gazebo this week. Now that vacations are done and school has started back up. But I ended up getting a start on a much-needed, long overdo hedge trimming. Still more to do on that but we'll see. Tomorrow will be either hedge trimming or gazebo work... then rain in the afternoon.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So yeah, Johnnie, I did some research and didn't come across any positive experiences of people coating BLO with lacquer. I don't recall off hand what magazine I just read that in but a plan was suggesting lacquering over cured BLO (unless my memory is tricking me). I remember it seeming counter intuitive when I first read it. I'd pondered a test piece, if I couldn't find the article again, which is a part of my hesitating to proceed more quickly.

I really appreciate that you pointed it out to me. I'll be following your advice and buying some spar varnish.
 
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