[mikewedeking]

What technique or product will eliminate the grain!? I'm pretty good with a rattle can but I can't seem to get that flat as glass look I want. This pic kind shows what I'm talking about.

 

[cabinetman]

If you use a paste wood filler...AKA grain filler, it would fill the pores and make the surface slick. Your applied finish would be smooth. It's not a wood putty or hole filler.

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[Quickstep]

I usually use a hi-build primer then sand it when I want that type of finish.

 

[TonyM]

sealer

I'd use a heavy coat of sanding sealer and then sand it. Two coats would be better.

TonyM

 

[mikewedeking]

If anybody has a pic of the product that would help.

 

[mdntrdr]

Hand sanding your piece with a block will help. If your using a ROS, they tend to dish out the softer grain and leave the harder grain prominent. :smile:

 

[TylerJones]

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you want to completely eliminate all wood grain and paint a gloss finish, why not use MDF, or even a solid acrylic? Both can be worked with the same tools and would be much less work.

 

[Steve Neul]

Grain filler is good if it is open grained wood. For the most part priming and sanding the primer between coat until the finish is level is the most effective way to produce the finish you want. Depending on the primer you are using it may take 4 or 5 coats of primer to cover up the wood. If you had the means of spraying Bushwacker white lacquer primer from Sherwin Williams works really well.

 

[TonyM]

Years ago this would be handled by using a good sharp scraper but sandpaper seems to be the only alternative folks consider now. The raised portion of the grain is harder than the pulpier and softer wood between. If you scrape but don't push down real hard you may be able to erase any grain lines. Depends on the wood.

I'm certain some folks have mentioned the following book but I'll do it again. If you want to discover some older methods, with the focus NOT on sanding everything that moves, try finding this. He has a second book (The Furniture Doctor) but this one is the best reference I can find for dealing with wood finish hassles of any kind. It was written around mid-20th century but most can be applied today. I have the original print edition and already have three family members claiming them after my demise. I didn't really understand lacquer until finding these.


From Gunk to Glow: The Gentle Art of Refinishing Antiques and Other Furniture Paperback – January 1, 1983
by George Grotz

 

[mikewedeking]

I can't thank everybody enough thanks ill look for the literature. Prime sand and prime sand ect... Ill try that too. The raised grain is harder than the lower grain. Huh, good to know. Thanks again

 

[Rick Mosher]

+1 with Tyler above. Save yourself some grief and use mdf or if opposed to that at least use maple which has no grain to fill and the edges are easier than mdf. Just prime, sand and paint.

 

[cabinetman]

+1 with Tyler above. Save yourself some grief and use mdf or if opposed to that at least use maple which has no grain to fill and the edges are easier than mdf. Just prime, sand and paint.

The OP never stated what the species is.

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[mikewedeking]

Select pine but poplar is good for painting, correct? As for maple I mess up to much for $pending that type of money on scraps

 

[Steve Neul]

As far as the two species of wood, poplar would have less of a grain problem and paint better than the pine. Poplar has a very tight grain, more like soft maple where the pine does have some hard bands of grain. If you avoid water based paints either should paint fine. The water in water based paints will raise the grain taking more coats and sanding between coats to achieve the same results.