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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what brands of pour on epoxy other use here. The stuff is so expensive I hate to experiment. So far the only brand I have used is Enviro Tex Lite. The bubbles are bad but it seems a lot depends on if I have used any other finish on the wood prior to the epoxy.

What brands do others use and is there any special techniques or tricks?
 

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I use E-Bond Epoxies, which is a local manufacturer in my area. As for a general overview of doing the work, here is a brief explanation. It's really pretty easy.

I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.

Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.

Mixing:
When ready, do not stir either container per se, but rather use a stir stick and slowly pass the bottom of the can for any settling that may have occurred. Slowly mix equal parts so as not to create any bubbles.

For tops that will have an edge with overflow from the top pour:
Use a brush and coat the edges with the mix so when the top is poured it will have a clear run on the edges. Pour from the center of the top near the end and slowly work your way to the other end. For long tops, pour from the center to the outer ends. Allow the mix to run off the edges until you get coverage all the way around.

When the consistency gets to a gelled state, take a knife and cut off the excess from under the top.

For tops with a captive edge:
Depending on the height of the pour desired, you may want to do two pours. If you get ¼" to ⅜" minimum per pour that is fine.

Right after the pour:
Use a propane torch passed over the top, keeping the flame off the epoxy. This will heat up the material so any bubbles will rise and dissipate. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer may cause a gelling or areas that kick too soon, due to the hot forced air. Block or belt sand the cured epoxy off the bottom and ease the sharp edge where it ran off, and it was cut off.

Here is a good site that covers most questions you may have. There...see how easy it is.





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Practice makes perfect. There are a hundred little tricks but they won't work for everyone. I've poured over 100 gallons of the stuff and am still learning little things to make it better.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the great tips and how-to:thumbsup: The stuff I'm working with generally takes about 24-36 hours before it is completely hard. If I have to apply 2 coats, do I need to wait till the first coat is totally hard before applying the second?
 
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