[BrandonD]

I have been in the market for a dust collector. I found one about 45 minutes from here. The guy has it in storage and could not tell me the model. He said it was a tempest 5hp with the 'filter and everything'. He wants $500 for it.

Any clue as to the model so I can look up specs? Is it worth it? I have a small 19x20 shop with 8ft ceilings but looking to build a bigger shop in a few years. I will be installing duct work in my current shop. Any tips as to checking the condition of it? I am not sure he will be able to plug it in and start it up since it's in storage. Common sense is telling me to require it started up before I buy. Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[woodnthings]

that would be this one

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TEMP1550S.html

For $500.00 it's a steal of a deal...if it works, and really there no reason it shouldn't from just sitting in storage.

 

[BrandonD]

Thanks! I knew it would be 240V but I see it's also 3 phase, which I don't have available. I'd have to buy an inverter or other such device, not sure if it's worth it. Thoughts?

 

[Fred Hargis]

I think at one time the 5 HP models were available in single phase, so it may pay to look. A motor that large might need an RPC, making that a lot less appealing. You might be able to switch the motor for a lot less; it's well worth consideration.

 

[BrandonD]

In the Q&A section on the product page they state all their 5HP models are three phase, but I will contact them and see if they have a 5HP single phase motor I could swap out.

 

[Fred Hargis]

Even if they didn't have one, you can get one (probably cheaper) from a number of motor vendors. It will probably take a C-face and you'll need the shaft size.

 

[BrandonD]

I'm new to the world of specing motors. I'm going to call him up in a bit and verify it's 3ph and ask for him to find the model. I'd hate to do the work of finding a replacement motor and it's the wrong system, although just briefly looking at prices at Grainger and Global Industrial quickly closes the gap between "great deal" and "okay deal."

I read about replacing motors in 3 vs 1 phase scenarios, and one concern that was brought up is if the motor shaft or mount is custom or otherwise has some unique features.

 

[Fred Hargis]

I replaced the motor on my Oneida, and the hardest part was getting the impeller off the motor shaft. This was not a phase conversion (which means you might also have to replace the switch, no big deal) but the 5 HP Leeson I put on it I got from Clearview Cyclones for (at the time $300. Anyway, the first time I pulled the motor I had to pay a motor shop to remove the impeller. The second time (yes, my life is just full of fun :furious I was able to do it myself. but it's not a very complicated job, one other thing you need to know is the key size, though they are easy to find and fairly standard.

 

[BrandonD]

Sounds like fun!

Well, a new development: I gave him a call and he claims it is not 3 phase "because he ran it on 220." I said the website listed it as 5hp 3ph 220V. He's going to go by later today to get the model off it and hopefully I can get a better idea. Maybe we have the wrong DC all together or maybe it was offered as a single phase in an earlier time like you mentioned... or maybe he has the HP wrong. I'd take their 2.5hp or 3.5hp models.

He actually has three. He says they used to have a large shop and ran them for less than a year. Then they moved to a smaller shop and don't need them anymore.

 

[Fred Hargis]

Sounds like you're on track for a possible deal! Good luck......

 

[BrandonD]

I sure hope so! I am way tired of sweeping up. I know I'll still have to, but not piles and piles of chips... Not to mention the new (to me) 16" planer and 8" jointer I picked up last weekend almost require the use of a dust collector according to their manuals. I'm no stranger to buying things I can't use immediately... I don't even have 240V wired in my shop yet, which the planer & jointer require. Hoping to get started on that next weekend after I finish my current project this weekend.

 

[BrandonD]

Ding ding ding, we have a winner. It's the 3.5HP model and I'll take it, even at the same price, but I'm sure I might be able to get him down some if he was willing to part with a 5HP model at $500. Either way, it's current $1200 new and that's not including shipping.

His shop is right down from the storage place and he said he'll bring it over and plug it in so it can be tested. Hoping to go tomorrow, it looks like it's going to rain today.

 

[ryan50hrl]

That's awesome.

 

[Fred Hargis]

Sounds good......:thumbsup:

 

[BrandonD]

I picked it up last night! I kept looking at the weather and it cleared up during that 2.5 hour window it'd take to get there, load it up and get back. Of course weather reports are never accurate, and while it was beautiful most of the drive there, it opened up the last 10 minutes to his shop. I brought a tarp just in case so I wasn't overly worried, but I knew how finicky tarps can be if not secured 100% correctly. Thankfully the rain stopped as we were loading it up after I tested it. I secured the tarp and drove home, taking a different route. No rain among the bulk of it, but looking over towards the highway I came in on it was pitch black, so I'm glad I went a different way home. It sprinkled a tiny bit for about 2 minutes near the end of the drive, not enough to matter and the tarp was still magically secured at all ends.

They used a fork lift to get it on the truck. I don't have one of those luxury tools so I unloaded everything I could and was left with the cyclone body, blower and motor assembly. I thought I'd man handle it down from the tailgate to a furniture mover... so that I easily could roll it around until I install it. Got the wheels locked in place and managed to safely move the cyclone from the tailgate to the dolly without damaging my back and more impressively doing it without using the motor for support. Only it did not want to sit on the dolly and not roll around, so I ended up carefully lowering it from there to the ground on some scrap pine.

I did not notice at the time (I need to be more observant!) but the body is actually missing four corner brackets used to mount to the wall. I guess they unbolted the cyclone from the brackets when uninstalling it and forgot to re-attach the brackets. I'm going to give them a call today and see if they can find it... and if not, I'll contact PSI and see if they can't sell me just those parts. I want to buy a remote switch and possibly a muffler from them anyway. I will be likely installing some sort of insulated enclosure around it to help reduce noise.

They have a 7" to 4" reducer on it. Obviously it's better to run 6" mains with 4" drops to the tools right?

Here's a pic. You can make out the filter to the left near the tool boxes.

 

[Fred Hargis]

If that had the inlet choked to 4", they wasted a lot of money buying that machine. The cyclonic action to spin the dust/chips out needs the air volume to do so. In any case, I would suggest you run at least 6" lines, but all the way to the tools. This would mean changing whatever ports that are 4" to the 6" size. Collecting the finest dust requires maximum air movement, in turn that requires ductwork that will support it. The chips are easier, if you're only out to get them the 4" will be fine. Congrats on the purchase, I'm sure it will serve you well. BTW, you may want to make the first 4-5 feet or so of duct 7", to match the inlet. At least that was what Oneida stressed to me, mine also has a 7" inlet. So I ran about 6' of 7" HVAC snaplock, and then transitioned it to 6" PVC for the balance of the system.

 

[BrandonD]

I thought it was odd that they had it reduced to 4" too. That was something I actually asked about (yes, I asked about the reducer and not the important mounting brackets) and he said they just ran 4" duct. They had three of these guys.

I never considered 6" to the tool. There's no "changing" the ports on my bandsaw -- they're built into the enclosure. The shroud on my planer and jointer have 4" ports, but they're removable and Jet/Grizzly might sell ones with a 6". If not, and with my bandsaw, I'd be stuck using a 6" to 4" reducer at the tool, which seems like it won't add much performance vs. running 4" from the tool up 4-6ft to the 6" main? My router cabinet has a 4" hole in the body with the router, but could be enlarged to 6" I suppose as I haven't built the insides yet.

The miter and table saws do not have dust collection built in (except for the standard small 2" port on the miter saw that only catches 30% of the dust), so I will be doing something custom with them and could run 6" all the way.

 

[Fred Hargis]

The bandsaw isn't huge producer of dust, it's one tool where I have a 4" connection (mine started with a 2.5" port), but for the jointer, you could get a 6" HVAC "starter collar", screw it to a peice of 1/4" ply and fasten it to the jointer body (that's what I did on my Jet 8") Same with the planer, you might get an HVAC 6" boot of some kind that can be used. My RT has a 6" line to the body, with a 4" line to the fence. Same with the TS, 6" to the cabinet and 4" overblade pick up. I don't have the miter saw in my shop anymore, but when I did I couldn't come up with anything that worked to my satisfaction. MY drum sander hood couldn't be modified (A Delta 18/36) so I took it off and completely replaced it with a shop built one that has a 6" HVAC collar on it.

 

[BrandonD]

Not bad ideas. I'm starting to price out ducting. I was originally planning on using metal snap lock, but think I can get 6" PVC pipe & fittings from a local plumbing supply cheaper. I will definitely look into running 7" out the inlet and reducing from there, depending on where I put it it would be a simple addition.

I've read that the 6" plastic blast gates from Clear Vue are great because they sit on the outside of the pipe and don't restrict air flow. Any thoughts on that? Where did you get your flex hose?

I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road... for now I am focusing on finishing my current project and then running electrical throughout my shop. At that point I can look at mounting the DC and running the duct work. I hope to be at that point late October... the long 4 day weekend away on the 25th doesn't seem as enticing now! :laughing:

BTW, the guy found the mounting brackets and I'll be getting them from him today. I'll also ask about the missing blast gate at the bottom of the filter stack. Although I'm not as worried about that as I'm sure I can fabricate something.

 

[Fred Hargis]

I've not seen the CV gates first hand, but have read the same thing. I built mine (similar to this, my slide gates are plywood) and I have one of the black plastic ones on my system, but I don't care for those at all. I've bought 6" flex at a couple of places, but the last piece came from Woodworker's supply (clear, wire wound). But you can get it from Penn State, Griz, and other places.When you price out your ducting, you might find the biggest cost is the fittings, price them along with the straight stuff.