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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While doing my weekly visit at the local Grizzly store clearance room, I came across this drill press table for $20, which was slightly less than half price. The only issue with it is the fence has a crack in it. The material is MDF. While I don't see me using the fence a whole lot, I'd like to try and fix it. Any suggestions on how to get some Titebond in the crack without actually breaking the piece off? What methods are there for this type if fix?



Thanks.

Mark
 

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crosseyed & dyslexic
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Mark I'm not sure if it's worth the time trying to get glue down in that crack. Why not just pre drill and drive in 2 screws from the backside? That should suck that crack up tight, just don't strip those screws :thumbsup:
 

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I've repaired similar cracks in gun stocks for people that had no other choice. If the crack can be successfully opened, compressed air can sometimes be used to force glue in.

Another way I've resorted to that's probably a more positive way to fully coat the surfaces is to use common sewing thread to drag glue through the crack. The ends of a 6 ft. length or so are tied together then coiled as one would coil a band saw blade. With 4 strands in the coil and a liberal supply of glue on the top of the crack at all times, glue is drawn in as one pulls the thread through and out the bottom and continuing the cycle until you feel the surfaces are fully coated. The part to be glued and the glue itself being warmed to around 120°F makes things seem to work more better.
 

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The crack should easily be fixed using CA glue, perhaps the Thin type.

First you need to seal the top so that the CA glue is not absorbed in the top surface.

Use any finish you have on hand, poly, shellac, etc. Clamp while applying the finish to try and prevent the finish going into the crack.

Once the surface is sealed, get a small screw driver and force in the end carefully. You want to open the crack slightly and not break the piece off.

Apply the CA glue along the crack. Several applications. It should run into the crack. Then remove the screwdriver, clamp and if you have accelerator, spray this on. If no accelerator, leave it clamped for awhile. The glue deep in the crack will take some time to cure, as in many minutes.

I have filled gaps in my turnings and then used accelerator on the outside thinking it was cured throughout, but as I turned the wood, I eventually got to some liquid pockets not cured.

You are not in a hurry. Give it time to cure.

If you want a "belts and braces" solution, then you can glue a solid piece of wood on top of the surface.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dave, I can't believe I didn't think of CA glue. I have that. I may try it this weekend when it warms up.
 

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If your a woodworker than this shouldn't even be an issue for you just make your own fence out of some scrap plywood or better yet a good hardwood you have laying around once MDF is compromised then it's screwed and done for that way I usually replace anything I run across made of MDF. Why take the time to fix it when you can make it better take all the bells and whistles it may have attached it it off and put them on your new self made fence it will be more accurate than MDF anyways
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This piece already has the t slots in it. I don't gave a bit to cut them so if I can fix this one it's better right now.
 

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If your a woodworker than this shouldn't even be an issue for you just make your own fence out of some scrap plywood or better yet a good hardwood you have laying around once MDF is compromised then it's screwed and done for that way I usually replace anything I run across made of MDF. Why take the time to fix it when you can make it better take all the bells and whistles it may have attached it it off and put them on your new self made fence it will be more accurate than MDF anyways
One can be a woodworker and not have all the options open to him or her that others may have. One does what one can with what one has. :smile:
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Burb said:
Dave, I can't believe I didn't think of CA glue. I have that. I may try it this weekend when it warms up.
Dave, I did the CA glue fix today and it worked quite well. I did notice one odd thing though. Once I split open the crack and poured in thin CA, it started smoking. Any idea why? I've never had it do that before.
 

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You have angered the volcano!

Dave, I did the CA glue fix today and it worked quite well. I did notice one odd thing though. Once I split open the crack and poured in thin CA, it started smoking. Any idea why? I've never had it do that before.
 

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Dave, I did the CA glue fix today and it worked quite well. I did notice one odd thing though. Once I split open the crack and poured in thin CA, it started smoking. Any idea why? I've never had it do that before.
I have experienced this myself.

CA glue cures with moisture. It is an exothermic reaction which means it gives off heat. Too much moisture and too much heat. The smoking is steam.

In my case I mixed CA glue with sanding dust. Lots of surface area so lots of moisture and the CA glue made a little smoke stack of steam.

I think the CA glue ran into the crack as you desired, and the large surface area with the moisture in the particle board caused some heating. I think you observed steam rather than smoke.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steam or smoke. Either way it's all good. After all, the end result was the same.

Thanks for the education.
 
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