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Discussion Starter #1
Guys just finished drawing this up. I was looking to make this out of solid wood with no plywood. So I'm thinking about doing frame and panel but since this is my first major build for a client, I thought I would seek some wisdom from all of you. My questions for you guys are:
1. What method would you use?
2. The client wants full extension slides. Would you bother with dust frames?
3. Does anyone have some plans that are similar?

ForumRunner_20130513_143916.jpg
 

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Guys just finished drawing this up. I was looking to make this out of solid wood with no plywood. So I'm thinking about doing frame and panel but since this is my first major build for a client, I thought I would seek some wisdom from all of you. My questions for you guys are:
1. What method would you use?
2. The client wants full extension slides. Would you bother with dust frames?
3. Does anyone have some plans that are similar?

View attachment 70735
Nice drawing . wished I could draw that good
 

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To me the project screams plywood if made like shown. Making the faceframe and doors and drawers with the waterfall grain you are likely to have some warpage problems with the parts. I'm sure it would immediately come out fine but in a year or so I would expect your customer will call you and say the drawer fronts are warping. Then since it is matching wood you can't just replace a drawer front so the only fix would be either a major overhaul or build a new one. If you are makeing it with just a faceframe and inset doors and drawers then it would work fine with solid wood.

As far as the full extension drawer guides, if you are going to use hardware I would use them. My opinion is mechanical drawer hardware doesn't belong in furniture but I'm old fashion.

As far as the dust frame I would use one on the bottom. Often when they are made between each drawer the panel sags and rubs the drawer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Steve. I planned to use quarter sawn ash. The grain was just to make it look like wood on GS. The client asked for no plywood if possible. I have done tons of furniture using plywood panels but this would be my first go without any.

I feel the same way about hardware and furniture pieces. But at the same time I am trying to give her what she asked for.
 

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Thanks Steve. I planned to use quarter sawn ash. The grain was just to make it look like wood on GS. The client asked for no plywood if possible. I have done tons of furniture using plywood panels but this would be my first go without any.

I feel the same way about hardware and furniture pieces. But at the same time I am trying to give her what she asked for.
I know what you mean about customers. I point out to them what is normally done but I always build what they want. I built some kitchen cabinets for a customer one time with the counter height 44". I tried to talk them out of it, told them they would have trouble selling the house but in the end built them. Then before I got them completely installed they changed their minds and paid me extra to cut them down. I finally made the counter height 40".

The way the plywood manufacturers are making plywood today, I've been considering making furniture without plywood at all except for maybe drawer bottoms. The Chinese plywood delaminates and the American made plywood the stores sell in my area, they veneer over knotholes so the veneer wrinkles up when you stain it. The last 1/4" plywood I bought when I was unloading it out of my truck I lifted the sheet up toward the sun and there was light shining through the sheet in areas over 2".
 

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You could easily duplicate your drawing using plywood, and the parts would be more stable. Grain on drawer fronts can be done with a vertical match, but that is impractical if using lumber.

Many furniture makers prefer to configure drawer front grain horizontally, as it would be if done in solid wood. As for using full extension slides, it may seem nontraditional, but those drawers will always work like a charm. I've never had a client complain about using the hardware.

I buy my plywood from a hardwood and plywood distributor, and don't have veneer problems.







.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks c-man. I would love to do it from plywood but as I said the client doesn't want plywood. The grain on the drawing was just a default in Google sketch up. The bed she wants me to match is quarter sawn ash. The style is like my drawing but the grain looks very arts and craft style (dark quarter sawn panels etc)
I was thinking that since I was sticking to QS wood that I might get away with not using plywood. But all the furniture I have done to date has used plywood. So I am a little lost in connecting all the frames together to create the case. I mean won't I have to deal with cross-grain movement? You know like where the dust frames cross the sides.
Like Steve I have had lots of problems with plywood and the cheap veneer they seem to use now.

Anyway any hints would be greatly appreciated.
 

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info said:
Nice drawing . wished I could draw that good
Kevin
Seems like the ends can be frame and panel flush with the frames using a small space for explanation. Tell them it's best to put one single piece of plywood on the back to enclose it and square it.

Full extension drawers means you almost have to use mechanical slides. Look into under mounts that don't show.
Build the top and set it on the top rather than making it part of the carcass. Fasten to let it float. If its built like the picture it should build like the sides.

The front could be face frame. 45 the ends into the sides. Base is built strong and covered by the bottom section like trim.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 
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