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Discussion Starter #1
I am using 1/2" plywood with side mount euro slides. Lets say the opening is 15" how much do I deduct from that to get my drawer size? I put one slide inside the other measured I think 7/16" so do I deduct 7/8" or more say 15/16" for a little play or more. The schematics say its 12.5mm each side but the seems wong to me
 

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I am using 1/2" plywood with side mount euro slides. Lets say the opening is 15" how much do I deduct from that to get my drawer size? I put one slide inside the other measured I think 7/16" so do I deduct 7/8" or more say 15/16" for a little play or more. The schematics say its 12.5mm each side but the seems wong to me
Many side mount slides suggest ½" + 1/32", which relates to 17/32" per side. Overall width of the drawer should be 1" + 1/16", which relates to 17/16", less than the opening. The reason for each side to be slightly larger than a ½" gap, is to allow for shimming if necessary.





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I am using 1/2" plywood with side mount euro slides. Lets say the opening is 15" how much do I deduct from that to get my drawer size? I put one slide inside the other measured I think 7/16" so do I deduct 7/8" or more say 15/16" for a little play or more. The schematics say its 12.5mm each side but the seems wong to me
Most side mounted drawer slides require 1/2" clearance on each side. Its far easier to shim the slide tighter than to have to enlarge the opening if made too tight. In your case I would make sure the drawer box is no more than 14" wide.

Also make sure the drawer box is square and that the sides are parallel.

What are you building? I prefer a wood on wood drawer slide in furniture, then bottom mount slides for kitchen cabinets,

Bret
 

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With some brands of slides, the specifications are difficult to find. Go to the manufacturers web site and see what they recommend, don't take anyone's advice without checking. The vast majority require the drawers to be 1 1/16" less than the space between faceframes. If you don't allow enough room the slides can bind and not work smoothly, proper spacing can be critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm building drawer boxes for kitchen cabinets I'm doing for a guy. The side mount just seem like they would be more sturdy. But I am buying from homedepot or Lowe's. So my variety is limited. Should I do an under mount? If so I can make my drawers if I have a 15" opening say 14 3/4"?
 

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I'm building drawer boxes for kitchen cabinets I'm doing for a guy. The side mount just seem like they would be more sturdy. But I am buying from homedepot or Lowe's. So my variety is limited. Should I do an under mount? If so I can make my drawers if I have a 15" opening say 14 3/4"?
Here is an opportunity for you to benefit from my mistakes. I'm not sure what brand of side mounted slides Lowes carries but if they are Chinese avoid them! I would go on line and find some more quality guides probably for less money. Brands that are reliable would be Blum, Accuride and whatever others might recommend. I think Lowes might carry better guides than HD. I bought some there and was very dissappointed.

The best guides in my opinion are the Blum under mount with the soft close feature but they are also guite expensive and require the drawer boxes to be constructed to certain specifications with carefully planning

In my production days, all our hardware was ordered from various
Wholesale hardware suppliers.

Bret
 

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I mount the drawer slides (side mount) in the cabinet. Then measure in between to make sure I got the right width. Just like Cabinetman and others have said, the 1 1/16 inch seems to be just right. For the ones I have made, I cut the front to the corerect width and remeasure to make sure everything is right on the money. The sides are made to fit the width, whether it is dovetail joints or the front is rabbited. After doing a few now, they have all turned out to have a good fit.

Here are several examples.
Hope this helps.
Mike
 

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