[Alaska_Guy]

I received a dovetail jig as a gift and I think I am pretty close on the fit, I just can't seem to get the alignment right. I had to cut one of the tails so I could test fitment.

What is an easy way to make sure they align correctly?

Thanks.

 

[bladeburner]

I suspect the pieces are moving under the bit, however look at this from MLCS:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/instruct.html

 

[Alaska_Guy]

Thanks, I have the instructions... So you think its not clamped tight enough?

Let me make a few more and go from there.

 

[Alaska_Guy]

Thanks, I have the instructions... So you think its not clamped tight enough?

Let me make a few more and go from there.

Ok, it was moving. I had to place a stop block the same length on both sides of the jig. I didn't plane the piece because I am still trying to get everything on the jig setup. It looks like it works! Once I get some pieces planed I can test that they mate up perfect. The joint fits great, but when two pieces arent the same thickness it obviously doesn't come out right.

 

[Alaska_Guy]

They make huge dovetails. Good for a chest or something else. But way too big for drawers.

 

[GeorgeC]

Unless my eyes are deceiving me, it looks to like all you have there is a template, not the entire dovetail jig.

George

 

[Alaska_Guy]

Unless my eyes are deceiving me, it looks to like all you have there is a template, not the entire dovetail jig.

George

It works as a jig if you build it like they show you in that video.

 

[woodnthings]

yep, there are 2 types

You can probably change the size of the pins and tails by using a different bushing and a smaller dovetail bit, but you can't change the spacing.

My jig like that recommends that it be screwed to a larger block. Then you clamp your block and jig to the board which is held vertically in a face vise. OR you can turn the whole thing upside down and use it in a router table. Sorry, if this is all covered in the video, I didn't watch it.

OK, I watched it and it's really good. I would add some sandpaper to the face of the block to keep the work from shifting around.

Edit no. 2. This is a great reason to have 2 routers with a different bit in each....

 

[Alaska_Guy]

I totally agree....

This was a gift, so I figured I would test it out.

To be honest though, for the $60 bucks or whatever it costs... I honestly think the time it takes and swapping bits etc for smaller pieces just isn't worth it.

If I was doing a hope chest I think this setup could come in handy.

This is a much easier/cheaper method.

 

[OldEd]

Keller Jig.

What you've got there is a rip-off(?) of the Keller Dovetail Jig, which has been around a while. :furious:

The instructions are those for the Keller Jig.

And yes, it is the complete core of the jig - the mounting board is to be supplied by the user, if you buy it from Dave. The clamping is up to the user, although Dave has suggestions.

You have the BIG dovetail model. The Keller jigs also make nice box-sized dovetails.

I should know: I've had a Model 1500 for several years and think nothing of making dovetailed joints for almost anything. It is a pleasure to make them - something I can almost do in my sleep.

You can search YouTube for Keller Jig for some demo's.

It's my guess that your gift-giver obviously didn't know too much about woodworking, in as much as they bought you a big model.

 

[TimPa]

not sure if you have a jointer, planer, or hand planes. but i think you may have better success as you fine tune your dt process, if your material is straight, flat, and cleaned up. it may help you to see the actual results of the machining. nice so far.

 

[Alaska_Guy]

Thanks for the info. I thought it was the large jig. Because there is no way I would use this for drawers.

After I created stop blocks it did a better job.

 

[Tom King]

Bit depth is very critical on fit.