[woodnthings]

I needed a "stout" door for access between my garage overhead and my woodshop, both on the second floor. I had some Doug Fir 2 X 10's Pressure Treated that had been around forever and were pretty flat. They had some curve to the edges but I straight lined them.
I used a steel U channel for a sliding farm/utility track and slid the piece and the channel along the fence for an almost perfect straight edge.
The curve touched the channel in two places, fore and aft.

 

[woodnthings]

Next step, glue up

The 3 pieces mated very well,but I was 3" short of my desired width, so I had to purchase a new 2 x 6. I ripped it evenly off both sides to prevent as much movement as possible. The glue up went OK, a few clamps on top then 3 underneath and then a few more on top.

Fresh from my hand planing experience on the scaffold plank, I grabbed my "junk" Stanley and started scrubbing away at the 1/16" mismatches here and there. Overall I was pretty pleased with the result...however, it's a whole lot of work.:yes: Then I flipped it over to do the same on the other side. :thumbdown:

 

[woodnthings]

More hand and power planing!

After putting up 2 pair of flourescent lights for most of the morning, blown ballasts, broken light sockets and such, I got the work area set up in the attic and I was ready to finish the leveling. I realised that it was gonna be a lot of work to get it all level after I checked it with a steel straight edge. I marked the highest spots with oorange marking pencil and proceeded to level them out, checking each time I removed the marks and remarking if need. It's now within about a 1/32" at most.

I'm going to use 1/4" Oak faced ply for the skins on both sides, at $26.00 per sheet. The door will be an access door and will not be 6'8" in height, more like 6'2" because of the slope of the roof and the rafters interfering. No problem for me, but my son will have to duck his head.

 

[woodnthings]

It's finally "level"

I used Tite Bond 2 for gluing on the plywood, rolled it on both sides then threw on the heaviest boxes I had up there and clamped the edges. I'll leave it set until tomorrow, when I'll glue the other face on.

Check back in later.

 

[cps]

Did you screw the U-channel to the 2 Xs ?

 

[woodnthings]

Nope

No need, just applied constant pressure in and forward to maintain registration to the channel and the channel to the fence. I messed up the first pass and had to take another 1/4" off. I lost my concentration and it pulled away, but I learned from that experience. :yes:

 

[cabinetman]

You face glued plywood to a glue up of solid wood. Are you concerned about the movement ability of the solid wood?

.

 

[woodnthings]

It's possible, but it's a utility door

It's not a finewoodworking project, just an access door. We'll see what happens. It's heated on one side in the winter to "shop" temps, and Michigan winter temps on the other side. I may put a glass storm door on the attic side, I donno? I'll seal the ends of the planks real well, that's all I can do. That's an excellent issue to raise, however, for anyone contemplating a build like this. :yes:

 

[cabinetman]

It's heated on one side in the winter to "shop" temps, and Michigan winter temps on the other side.

That can be a problem. In my location an exterior door facing west can have high temps (95°+) and extreme swings in R/H (30%-95%) on the same day outside, and on the inside 75° and 45%-50% R/H.

.

 

[Steve Neul]

I doubt if gluing a sheet of plywood to the solid wood panel would be that much different than lumber core plywood. Since the core wood has been around for a while it should be pretty stable.

 

[woodnthings]

That's what I'm hoping

With a skin on both sides, it may not move much...we'll see.:blink:

Another thought on this is that by using Pressure Treated lumber, it may have less tendency to move. I don't know the technicalities of the "ressure" treating, but it would seem logical that the wood pores have been filled with the treating chemical, then allowed to air dry... who knows?

 

[kelsochris]

Heck for a shop door I would have just gone with the panel made of the 2x's. Run a tounge and groove on the edge then some batten on the side away from the wall. Where are you at in Michigan? I am originally from Kalamazoo.

 

[Duane Bledsoe]

How did this ever turn out?

 

[woodnthings]

Turned out great..jmo

How did this ever turn out?

It's been installed for a few months in between the heated shop and the unheated storage and it seals up great with no warping. Shop temperature, 50 - 55 degrees on the one side and cold on the other.
It's like an exterior door without the weather ... snow, rain, direct sun, etc. :thumbsup:

 

[TimPa]

i want tractor pics

 

[woodnthings]

not many recent ones

red or green?

 

[Steve Neul]

red or green?

How about red and yellow.

 

[mdntrdr]

How about red and yellow.

Sweet! What year is it?

Did you refinish it? lol :smile:

 

[Steve Neul]

Sweet! What year is it?

Did you refinish it? lol :smile:

It was made in 1959 and looked like this when I bought it. Took me two years working part time on it. I split it and replaced the clutch is most of the mechanical I did on it.

 

[TimPa]

nice machines!!!! maybe we should start a tractor thread, ha ha.

quite the rig bill, interesting box ripper, hoe is awesome. is that a steiner?

What model case is that steve?