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Discussion Starter #1
I have a set of DMT diamond stones that are Green thru Black. The black says it is 1250 grit. I have used these for sharpen all of my chisels and or planes. I have seen the video on the DMT web site and they have even finer stones and a paste or pastes that will go even further. I need opinions whether or not they are worth getting they are pricy.
 

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I use sandpaper on granite rather than DMT stones, but if I'm feeling fancy I sharpen to 1000. If I'm in a hurry to get back to my project I only sharpen to 220. Are you not liking the results you're getting at 1250? To me the extra grit helps some with how easy the chisels and planes are to push through the wood, but the surface is as good either way as far as I can feel.
 

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I use crackerbox cardboard stuck to a granite countertop cut off.
Scrubbed liberally with chrome green (25,000 - 40,000 grit with different scales).
I hone my wood carving tools on that. What? $0.10 and 60 seconds for a new one?
Previous grits could be 1500 W&D papers (crooked knives) or a cheap 4K waterstone.
I get the carving sharp edges that I need.
 

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I just received a set dmt stone. So I haven't had much time sharpening with em. I'm looking forward to dumping all the sandpaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the comeback. I am curious for a couple of reasons. I like to work with figured maple and some mahogany. I have experience some tear out. Everyone wants to eliminate that and the best way I know is to have a blade that is super sharp. I also went to the DMT sharpen website and watched the video #2 (
). They use a 4000, and 8000 and then a polish if I remember correctly.

I guess what I am after is what will work best for me and not cost a million dollars.
 

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Here's my take. I'm a beginner and I mostly work in cheap woods (pine, and a little maple and red oak for boxes), so take this for what it's worth.

DMT is in the business of selling you things. They're also in the business of getting you sharp tools, but that's secondary, which is as it should be. I have a set of their plates, red, blue, and green, and those plus a strop can get me a finish that's very near being a mirror. That's sharp enough for me. They'll easily pare shavings off end grain pine, which is my usual test. I think the ones you have actually go finer than the ones I have: I'd stick with those, and maybe consider a scrap of leather and some stropping compound as a final step.

Some experts will agree with this. Others will say "No, you have to go to 12,000 grit if you want a good edge!" I aim for simple, and I'm pretty happy with what I have. I'm not sure I have the right answer, but then, I'm pretty sure there ISN'T a right answer.
 

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Mirror finish is an illusion, sorry. If "pretty" is impressive, I can do that.
A key feature is to have enough steel behind the edge to support it in the job.
That means that I need 7 different bevel angles for my various wood carving tools.
All freehand, kind of fun to tune them up in anticipation of the work.

I don't give a sweet rat's patootie what the "shine" on the tool looks like.
Do I get the flawless cut in the wood that I expect? Yes or no.

Lots of tear out? Try upping the bevel to 32 or 33 degrees, a little more meat behind the edge.
It's going to be a much tougher push but with a little skew, it might work OK.
I'm not so certain that honing to 30,000g like I do is of any value.
Most woodworks get all scuffed up and shredded with sandpaper at 220/320.
I'll take my scrapers any day, thanks.

How come it is that cabinet work is never textured? Always glossy like wannabe plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thank you all. I will stick with what I have. Nice to there is advice out there this is practical and unbiased. Have a good 2014
 
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