Ï have never had the need for a dial indicator.
Astraight edge is usually sufficient.
A pair of cheap hf feller gauges is sometimes helpful.
Astraight edge is usually sufficient.
A pair of cheap hf feller gauges is sometimes helpful.
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
You don't need a machinist level indicator, just about any one will do. As TonyB mentioned, you can mount them to whatever helps you reference. I like magnetic bases.
Not to start a debate, but I think the issue is not whether you need one but how close is close enough for a ww'ing machine. I agree it makes no sense to work in thousandths of an inch in ww'ing -- most of the time, but we all know even a thou can make a difference in a dado or sliding dovetail!!
That said, you can only achieve a level of precision the machine will allow, IOW how well the machine will hold its settings. For example, its makes no sense to dial in a miter or radial arm saw because they are not going to hold their settings that accurately. The same for a table saw with sloppy bushings in the trunnion.
I go with 2-3 thou as a reasonable tolerance for most things. Admittedly I get a little ridiculous about my planer and I don't stop until I'm within .001" across a 20" blade, same thing with my drum sander
. It's a 1-2 hour exercise that explains why my blades are dull. I just feel jointers and planers need to be dead on or you will get a multiplication effect of the error since you can't flip boards without going against the grain. Helical machines maybe not so much.
Not to start a debate, but I think the issue is not whether you need one but how close is close enough for a ww'ing machine. I agree it makes no sense to work in thousandths of an inch in ww'ing -- most of the time, but we all know even a thou can make a difference in a dado or sliding dovetail!!
That said, you can only achieve a level of precision the machine will allow, IOW how well the machine will hold its settings. For example, its makes no sense to dial in a miter or radial arm saw because they are not going to hold their settings that accurately. The same for a table saw with sloppy bushings in the trunnion.
I go with 2-3 thou as a reasonable tolerance for most things. Admittedly I get a little ridiculous about my planer and I don't stop until I'm within .001" across a 20" blade, same thing with my drum sander
. It's a 1-2 hour exercise that explains why my blades are dull. I just feel jointers and planers need to be dead on or you will get a multiplication effect of the error since you can't flip boards without going against the grain. Helical machines maybe not so much.
Ditto - well said!I go with 2-3 thou as a reasonable tolerance for most things. Admittedly I get a little ridiculous about my planer and I don't stop until I'm within .001" across a 20" blade, same thing with my drum sander
I think if a someone from 200 years ago were standing next to us they would ask, "Why in heck are you doing that by hand when you've got a mortise machine sitting right there?
I would never advise anyone to spend money on one just to set up a table saw, however if you have one then by all means don't feel guilty using it.
It is only a tool, and most tools work better in some hands than others, one has to have a feel for precise adjustments, otherwise they may find themselves chasing their tails. Those with the feel may use one or not but will end up to be close enough for woodworking.
Be aware there are different specs on the indicators, some have a graduations of 0.01 others may have 0.0001, for this purpose and to save some cash look for the 0.01 model.
It is only a tool, and most tools work better in some hands than others, one has to have a feel for precise adjustments, otherwise they may find themselves chasing their tails. Those with the feel may use one or not but will end up to be close enough for woodworking.
Be aware there are different specs on the indicators, some have a graduations of 0.01 others may have 0.0001, for this purpose and to save some cash look for the 0.01 model.
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
