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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey, Folks. Anyways, when the blade is set at 45* it nicks the throat plate upon startup. Obviously not good for the blade or the throat plate.
It seems too be a problem with the whole motor alignment. I measure between the blade and the fence and I get a difference of about a shy 1/16". The fence is square. I first thought it was a warped blade, so I changed in a new one. Still nicks on startup. The last time I went too Home Depot I looked at a new saw on display of the same make and set the blade at 45*. On the new saw the blade is pretty close too the throat plate as well.
Been busy as hell lately and really haven't had the time too get in there and figure this out. Kinda' hoping maybe someone else might of had this problem and had a quick fix for me. I hope it's not a bent arbor or something like that.Thanks for any info.
 

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This is not an unusual characteristic. If your throat plate is anything but metal of some type, you can lower your arbor all the way down, set your degree of angle to max and if it has an adjustment, adjust it so you get as much deflection as it will give.
Before you did that you should have put on the widest kerf blade you can find. If you have a 10" saw you can buy a 10 1/4" wide kerf blade.
Now raise your arbor with the saw running and it will grind off just enough material that your thin kerf blade will no longer make contact once you readjust your deflection og angle to exactly 45.
Make sure you don't allow that extra 1/8" of blade on each side make contact with anything harder than it is. :blink:

If you throat is metal, you are going to have to either get a poly throat or buy a set of zero clearance inserts for your saw. They come with no slot. You have to use the procedure I just outlined excpet no oversixed blade. that way you have an inserrt for 90 cuts and 45 cuts.

If you have a metal throat and insist on staying in the dark ages ;) you can take it to a machine shop and they can open it up a little for you.

I have various insterts I made out of Osage, and you could do the same. Maple and mesquite would work just as well.
 

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Most metal throat plates can be widened pretty quickly with
a regular steel file. Most plates are pretty soft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys. I considered grinding off a little bit too get the clearance, but figured the saw is not supposed too hit the throat too begin with.
Awesome info:thumbsup: I'm gettin' hooked on this site.
 

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different issue

I have an issue with this saw as well, but a different one. The height adjustment on mine is wicked hard to crank up. Retracting the blade is not as bad, but still tough. It's to the point that I have to hold the stand 'cause it racks so bad when I crank on it. It was never easy like it should be from day 1, but now getting harder. I assume it's a lubrication issue, but I misplaced the manual, and can't seem to download it from Dewalt. Any help would be great. It is an older one Made in USA, Type 2. Only light homeowner use on it, still looks almost new.... Thanks
 

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I have an issue with this saw as well, but a different one. The height adjustment on mine is wicked hard to crank up. Retracting the blade is not as bad, but still tough. It's to the point that I have to hold the stand 'cause it racks so bad when I crank on it. It was never easy like it should be from day 1, but now getting harder. I assume it's a lubrication issue, but I misplaced the manual, and can't seem to download it from Dewalt. Any help would be great. It is an older one Made in USA, Type 2. Only light homeowner use on it, still looks almost new.... Thanks

Before lube, make sure everything is clean. To me, it sounds like the threads, and or nuts; are packed with dust, swarf, crap.
 

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Before lube, make sure everything is clean. To me, it sounds like the threads, and or nuts; are packed with dust, swarf, crap.
Right I am going to do this, right now it's upside down on a table so I can get at it. But, that doesn't explain why it was like this to a certain degree new....Also, does white lithium grease sound like a good option? And, if I grease or oil it that would just create the problem again, because this mechanism is not protected or shrouded, so dust could easily cake it up again.....
 

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Before lube, make sure everything is clean. To me, it sounds like the threads, and or nuts; are packed with dust, swarf, crap.
Right, I am going to do this, right now it's upside down on a table so I can get at it. But, that doesn't explain why it was like this to a certain degree new....Also, does white lithium grease sound like a good option? And, if I grease or oil it that would just create the problem again, because this mechanism is not protected or shrouded, so dust could easily cake it up again.....
 

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I would NOT use white lithium grease. Grease will catch all the sawdust turning itself into a mildly abrasive goop on your gears. Gears will prematurely wear out.

Unfortunately, I can't offer a suggestion of what TO use, because I don't know. I'd like an answer to that myself.

I just know not to use a grease product (lithium or otherwise).
 

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Here's what I've always used for those situations:



95% Carbon, so don't get it all over the place, bitch to clean up. That's my favorite for guns, reels, anywhere you want lube; without the grease effect.
 

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I'll look into it, H.A.S. The parts in question involve only 1 nut & threaded rod, so if I get no other answers, I'm going to use the Lithium sparingly (it appears it may have been used at the factory, and I have a can already), and see what happens. Really what I'd like to know, is what the user's manual says.......
 

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Don't use the grease !!!
Just a good cleaning and no lube is even better than grease.....
 

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I use Gulf parafin wax. Just rub a little on the shaft threads and on the gear teeth. Dosen't attract saw dust and dirt.
You're good to go.
 
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