Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Senior Something
Joined
·
1,126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start by saying I don't have any sense of style or proportion. This is as far as I've gotton with the bookcase. I've got a couple of questions that I need help on before I proceed. The case will be for DVDs but since it's pine and overall width of 48", I was wondering does it need a center stile? Would that look better? If so I could put shelf supports on the backside.
Shelf Furniture Shelving Hardwood Wood

Shelf Shelving Furniture Hardwood Wood
Secondly, the apron? at the bottom will have scroll work similar to the scrap in front. I don't remember what my original plan was, but I ended up with the apron being 3" tall. It will have mitered corners. Should there be less space between the top edge of the apron and the shelf - less exposed? Or does it look alright the way it is. Lastly, I was going to secure the apron to the carcass with brads only (miters glued) so as to avoid any cross movement between the side of the carcass and the end piece of apron. Is this correct or is there a better way?
Furniture Wood Shelf Hardwood Shelving
Also the cove molding will be fastened with brads after I go buy a piece from HD - I thought I had a cove router bit:no:.

Sorry for the long saga, I couldn't explain it any shorter.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,339 Posts
Let ME start by saying that your DVD case is coming along very nicely!

Drill the center stile for shelf clips

You might not need center support at the back of the shelves. If it turns out that you will you can easily drill holes in the back for shelf clips later.

Also, for what its worth I'd leave off the curvy apron and simply miter the corners on the existing "sub apron".

I'd suggest a nice cove moulding as a transition between the cabinet top and the top rail.

Looking good so far. Keep us posted on your progress wouldja?

Thumbs up!
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,017 Posts
So far the cabinet is looking good.

Here's my thoughts. I agree, use shelf clips on the backside of the center stile. The "apron" you are planning I think would look better if it was flush with the bottom or set down like ¾", with the cove detail on the top edge.

On the sides, you could mount the trim from the back side using cleats if necessary, and making slotted holes to allow for movement.

Looking at the top, it just looks a bit like having too much overhang.






.
 

·
Senior Something
Joined
·
1,126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks all. As I have said I don't have a sense for style. The 'apron/skirt' (what's the correct term?) currently is 3" tall. Originally I thought a taller one, despite the scroll work, might look a little clunky. But maybe a 3-1/2" tall one topped with a 3/4" cove molding wouldn't look too bad and would take up the space. That's what didn't look right to me.

The top hasn't been cut to size yet; it's just setting on there. I was planning a 2" overhang with a 3/4" cove molding underneath, so the 'reveal' (again give me the correct terminology) would be 1-1/4" on the fron and sides. Maybe only a 3/4" reveal would look better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,339 Posts
Reveal, yes :)

There will be two of them. Using three quarter cove the one at the top should be 3/4 to one inch max IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: djg
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top