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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, new on the forum, would appreciate some advise on this table saw purchase.

I'm looking at this Delta 10" Contractors Table Saw Model 34-444. Attaching couple of pictures. He is including a dado blade and the "Dubby Industries" jigs. Asking $250 for the set up. I'm thinking these jigs should be worth at least $100, not sure about brand/quality of the dado blade, maybe worth $20-30? . Eventually I would like a saw with under-mount motor and good dust control. Is this a good 'starter' saw?

Any opinions on this saw and fence quality? Fence looks heavy duty at first glance.
 

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I’ve had that model for 40 years or so, with no complaints. I’ve made furniture, cabinets, & countless other odds & ends with it without any complaints. I did replace the original Jetlock fence with a Delta T2, which I like much better.

Over the years, I always thought I’d upgrade to a Unisaw or something comparable someday, but at this point I don’t think I’d see a benefit for my purposes.

I wouldn’t hesitate spending $250 for that deal; others may feel differently.
 

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CharleyL
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I found one of those 34-444 Delta saws and bought it for my son. After cleaning and adjustment, it is every bit as accurate as my mid 80's Unisaw. It didn't have a miter gauge with it, but I found a guy who had upgraded his saw and gave me a miter gauge and the same fence that's on your saw for $25. So my son now has a miter gauge. The fence rails that came in the package were better than those on his saw, so he took them too, leaving with a fence that he doesn't need. If you find that anything is wrong with that fence, I'll send you this one for the cost of shipping.

As far as I am concerned, that saw is a great buy for that price. Are you aware that connecting it to 240 volt power will get you an extra 1/2 horsepower ? Look closely at the motor plate specs. When wired to run on 120 volts it is a 1.5 hp motor.
Wire it for 240 volts and it is a 2 hp motor. This is a special motor that was designed this way so a contractor could use the saw on standard 120 volt 15 amp circuits while on the job, but back at his shop, he could change the motor connections for 240 voolts and gain an extra 1/2 hp.

I hope it's still available for you. Most of the time around her, these saws hardly last longer than the afternoon of the post that it's listed in. Ask questions like this and someone else will beat you to it.

Charley
 

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Smart and Cool
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I found one of those 34-444 Delta saws and bought it for my son. After cleaning and adjustment, it is every bit as accurate as my mid 80's Unisaw. It didn't have a miter gauge with it, but I found a guy who had upgraded his saw and gave me a miter gauge and the same fence that's on your saw for $25. So my son now has a miter gauge. The fence rails that came in the package were better than those on his saw, so he took them too, leaving with a fence that he doesn't need. If you find that anything is wrong with that fence, I'll send you this one for the cost of shipping.

As far as I am concerned, that saw is a great buy for that price. Are you aware that connecting it to 240 volt power will get you an extra 1/2 horsepower ? Look closely at the motor plate specs. When wired to run on 120 volts it is a 1.5 hp motor.
Wire it for 240 volts and it is a 2 hp motor
. This is a special motor that was designed this way so a contractor could use the saw on standard 120 volt 15 amp circuits while on the job, but back at his shop, he could change the motor connections for 240 voolts and gain an extra 1/2 hp.

I hope it's still available for you. Most of the time around her, these saws hardly last longer than the afternoon of the post that it's listed in. Ask questions like this and someone else will beat you to it.

Charley
Take a picture of that motor plate for me please, I have the same saw, HP is 1.5, current draw is 12.8 @120V and 6.4 @ 240V, same HP no matter what the voltage.

I've never heard of, or seen an AC motor that has a different HP rating depending on the input voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found one of those 34-444 Delta saws and bought it for my son. After cleaning and adjustment, it is every bit as accurate as my mid 80's Unisaw. It didn't have a miter gauge with it, but I found a guy who had upgraded his saw and gave me a miter gauge and the same fence that's on your saw for $25. So my son now has a miter gauge. The fence rails that came in the package were better than those on his saw, so he took them too, leaving with a fence that he doesn't need. If you find that anything is wrong with that fence, I'll send you this one for the cost of shipping.

As far as I am concerned, that saw is a great buy for that price. Are you aware that connecting it to 240 volt power will get you an extra 1/2 horsepower ? Look closely at the motor plate specs. When wired to run on 120 volts it is a 1.5 hp motor.
Wire it for 240 volts and it is a 2 hp motor. This is a special motor that was designed this way so a contractor could use the saw on standard 120 volt 15 amp circuits while on the job, but back at his shop, he could change the motor connections for 240 voolts and gain an extra 1/2 hp.

I hope it's still available for you. Most of the time around her, these saws hardly last longer than the afternoon of the post that it's listed in. Ask questions like this and someone else will beat you to it.

Charley
Charley thats very useful information and thank you for the Fence offer - I might take you up on it. :) I just installed a 10x12' shed to be used as a workshop, and need to run electrical. Wonder if I should go ahead and run 240v, originally I was thinking of two 120V lines, one 15A and one 20A. I just need to decide if I really need the extra power - this will be an occasional hobby for me, not everyday heavy use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The good news first - I cleaned up the fence rails and applied some lithium grease (all I had at the time) - so much smoother now. Made some sample cuts to check the fence accuracy - it seems almost dead on parallel with the blade, cuts like butter and Sharp smooth cuts.

Now the bad - After removing the table insert for general cleaning, I noticed a cracked cast iron piece right next to the worm gear for raising and lowering the blade. It has a dowel pin sticking out of it and when I raise the blade all the way, the dowel pin comes very close to another pin. I"m wondering if its meant to be a stop - anyway I'm sure the experts here know exactly what I"m in for.

The table does have some vibrations, but I can't imagine its due to this little cracked piece. I'd like to figure out the source of the vibration at some point. Right now its not interfering with cutting that I can see.
IMG_4993.jpg
IMG_4996.jpg
 

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I don't know if it would cause vibration but those photos look like a serious problem. Is that for the blade height adjustment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't know if it would cause vibration but those photos look like a serious problem. Is that for the blade height adjustment?
Yes its the area for the height adjustment. The gears on the large cast piece are sort of on the underside and all intact. Blade goes up and down smoothly. I'd like to know the function of that dowel pin.
 

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The pin is a stop for the blade height adjustment. When in its "not broken" condition, it hits against the pin sticking out from the left in your 2nd photo. I doubt that it would cause a serious problem, as long as you're aware of it. You may want to see if anything interferes with anything when you raise the blade past where it should stop. It may be as simple as the arbor flange comes up high enough to hit the table insert, which, as long as you're aware of it, you can then avoid.

Here's a picture of mine in its original condition, with that pin just about to contact the stop pin:

428317
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thats a relief !! Thanks Stevedore, kinda what I thought, its a stop. Think I'll try to get the loose pieces out of there, don't want them coming loose and damaging something else. I'll just have to remember to not crank the blade all the way up.
 
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