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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Hey guys how you doing? I have a Delta Router/Shaper I got for $50 dollars just wanted to know if anyone can give me a few pointers on it,collet is 1/2 inch I would like to use it as a regular router until I get the hang of it not sure if this would be the way to go as to iam learning as I go along..
Thank you
BuiltinWestchester


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You will need to use one of two things: a fence behind the bit or a router bit with a pilot on it. The machine should have the original fence.
Always move your wood into the bit from right to left. If you use very large bits, you will want to make your cut in increments of two or more passes. If your router (motor) is in good working condition, you got a very good deal for $50.
 

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I inherited one from an uncle and use it often. The criticism alluded to in the reviews has to do with the mechanism for raising/lowering the bit. There is a knob on the right side that is loosened before you use the knob on the front to raise or lower the bit. The problem is that when you loosen that first knob the whole motor assembly rotates a bit around a horizontal axis so that the bit axis is no longer vertical. After you adjust the front knob to get what you might think is the correct bit height, that height is going to increase slightly when you lock things since that moves the bit axis back to the vertical position. It really is a crappy design, but to be honest, I’ve never had any problem getting it set up. Once the motor is locked in place there is no wobble and it cuts accurately. I got mine for free. Would I buy one knowing what I know now - don’t think so. BTW, it has both 1/4” and 1/2” collets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I inherited one from an uncle and use it often. The criticism alluded to in the reviews has to do with the mechanism for raising/lowering the bit. There is a knob on the right side that is loosened before you use the knob on the front to raise or lower the bit. The problem is that when you loosen that first knob the whole motor assembly rotates a bit around a horizontal axis so that the bit axis is no longer vertical. After you adjust the front knob to get what you might think is the correct bit height, that height is going to increase slightly when you lock things since that moves the bit axis back to the vertical position. It really is a crappy design, but to be honest, I’ve never had any problem getting it set up. Once the motor is locked in place there is no wobble and it cuts accurately. I got mine for free. Would I buy one knowing what I know now - don’t think so. BTW, it has both 1/4” and 1/2” collets.


Mine came with a 1/2 Rail and style bit has the bearing in the middle can I put a 1/4 inch in also or I have to buy a different collet for it.i have my router with bits but I haven’t tried to see if they fit..


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Mine came with a 1/2 Rail and style bit has the bearing in the middle can I put a 1/4 inch in also or I have to buy a different collet for it.i have my router with bits but I haven’t tried to see if they fit..


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You will need a 1/4” collet for 1/4” bits.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These photos show the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The 1/4" collet simply gets inserted into the 1/2" collet.


Thanks this machine didn’t come with that one I’m gonna order one maybe check amazon but thank you for the break down well said..
Thank you
Freddy
BuiltinWestchester


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These photos show the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The 1/4" collet simply gets inserted into the 1/2" collet.
Terry, you seem very familiar with this router (43-505). The height adjustment on mine is stuck. I took it apart and it seems the motor plate does not fit in the slot of the frame of the adjuster. Does your literally fit in and slide up and down? Mine does not (fit in or slide easily). Here's a pic of the "fit" I'm trying to describe. I figure the motor plate should fit in the cutout and slide up or down freely. I appreciate any suggestions before I go filing away metal. Thanks.
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Terry, you seem very familiar with this router (43-505). The height adjustment on mine is stuck. I took it apart and it seems the motor plate does not fit in the slot of the frame of the adjuster. Does your literally fit in and slide up and down? Mine does not (fit in or slide easily). Here's a pic of the "fit" I'm trying to describe. I figure the motor plate should fit in the cutout and slide up or down freely. I appreciate any suggestions before I go filing away metal. Thanks.
View attachment 432372
I've never had a problem with the lifting mechanism other than what I mentioned in my first post -- that is the motor rotates slightly about a horizontal axis when you loosen the locking knob. After reading your post, I got curious and took the top off my machine to see how it compares with yours. You've obviously taken it apart to quite an extent. Looking at mine it doesn't appear there are any issues with the motor attachment not being able to slide freely. However, I would have to take the whole thing apart to be able to slide it up and down by hand. Referring to your photo, and looking at my own machine, I don't think you'll be able the slide the silver part (motor mount) up and down with the black horizontal lever bar in place. In short, I don't think you have a problem with that part not fitting -- I can't imagine how that would come to pass. What I can say is that because of the poor design, the lifting mechanism is really stiff, and you really have to loosen the locking mechanism (knob on the right side) and even then it is way stiffener than it should be with a properly designed mechanism.
 

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what is the rpm's? we had 2 shapers in the shop that the carpenters were using as routers, but left an unsatisfactory cut. rpm's were like 7000 and 8000. router bit geometry is designed to spin and cut at 20K rpms, so typically don't do that well at 8000 rpm. you need to feed your feed rate considerably to get the cuts per inch.
 

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what is the rpm's? we had 2 shapers in the shop that the carpenters were using as routers, but left an unsatisfactory cut. rpm's were like 7000 and 8000. router bit geometry is designed to spin and cut at 20K rpms, so typically don't do that well at 8000 rpm. you need to feed your feed rate considerably to get the cuts per inch.
Exactly! The 1/4" shaft router bits are meant to spin around 20,000 RPMs, the 1/2" bits from 16,000 down to 8,000 RPMs. A shapers maximum RPM is typically 10,000 RPM, with a second speed of 8,000 RPM, not enough for the smaller bits and some of the 1/2" shafts. Bit diameter determines the most efficient cutting speed just like in metal. Too fast and it will overheat and dull, too slow and it just won't cut right. I can't help on the mechanics, sorry.
 

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It does not get good reviews

It seems that the spindle has some vertical play which does not make for accurate cuts. Read through these reviews and see if yours has those issues:
Amazon.com: Customer reviews: DELTA 43-505 Router/Shaper
My Craftsman 1 HP "shaper" also has a 1/2" arbor, so there are not a bunch of 1/2" cutters avaialble. Grizzly was my best source for them years back.
A shaper has a nut on top of the arbor which does limit the types of cuts to pretty much edge profiles, no plunge cuts, like a router. My was a gift from a fellow at work who was scared to use it. They are dangerous, especially to a novice. Feeding direction is CRITICAL! Feed into the cutter rotation, never with it. Don't just jump in with both feet ... into the frying pan! o_O
 

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I agree with the recent posts concerning shapers. However the machine the original poster has is not a shaper. It is a router table and is intended for 1/4" and 1/2" router bits. Therefore the most recent posts seem to be heading off on a tangent and not responding to the original poster nor the more recent question by Billa1230.
 

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Well, I'll be darned. It's just like those jointer/planers that are really just jointers. Why does it say router/shaper right on the machine if it's really just a router?
Can't really blame us for confusing that then, can you?
 
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Well, I'll be darned. It's just like those jointer/planers that are really just jointers. Why does it say router/shaper right on the machine if it's really just a router?
Can't really blame us for confusing that then, can you?
Good point. In this case, the machine really is only supposed to do one thing (be a router table) despite the misleading name, and unfortunately it doesn't even do that very well.
 
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