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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, so I went down today to get some work done, and after some set up went to turn on the saw and the motor hummed but would not run. So I disconnected power and the drive belt, spun the blade which moved freely, spun the motor shaft which moved freely. Then with out the belt connected flipped the power switch and again the motor hummed but wouldn't run. Seems like I'm not getting enough power to run the motor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated?! :blink:
 

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Jeff Shafer said:
Hi all, so I went down today to get some work done, and after some set up went to turn on the saw and the motor hummed but would not run. So I disconnected power and the drive belt, spun the blade which moved freely, spun the motor shaft which moved freely. Then with out the belt connected flipped the power switch and again the motor hummed but wouldn't run. Seems like I'm not getting enough power to run the motor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated?! :blink:
Sounds like the capacitor. I would try replacing it. I just had to do the same for my A/C unit. A total cost of less than$11.
Tom
 

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Could be the capacitor or the startup windings switch which is internal to the motor. Did you blow everything out with air?
 

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A bad cap is a likely cause, but it could also a stuck centrifugal switch. If the caps both check out to be good, try spraying some WD-40 in the back of the motor, tapping on the back, and possibly gently probing with a screw driver to free it (it works a bit like a friction clutch and is usually located on the shaft at opposite end of the drive pulley).
 

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GeorgeC said:
All that will tell you is the voltage or resistance of a capacitor that is OUT of the circuit.

It does not tell you is the capacitor is is storing at it's rated capacity. There are high end (read expensive) meters that will read in farads.

George
I t will tell you right quick if the capacitor will not take a charge or is shorted.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So it turns out the start capacitor is shorted out and the original has 2 screw connectors on top, and the wires coming out of the motor have eyelets for the screws to go through. So on Grainger I can only find capacitors with the correct micro farad rating with 4 quick connect terminals on them. I'm sure I could make one of these work but if there is a better source where I could find a unit with 2 threaded terminals that would be great!! It's always something?;)
 

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Jeff Shafer said:
So it turns out the start capacitor is shorted out and the original has 2 screw connectors on top, and the wires coming out of the motor have eyelets for the screws to go through. So on Grainger I can only find capacitors with the correct micro farad rating with 4 quick connect terminals on them. I'm sure I could make one of these work but if there is a better source where I could find a unit with 2 threaded terminals that would be great!! It's always something?;)
Per George's comment earlier, did you verify that it was shorted after disconnecting it from the motor? I assume you probably did. But, just wanted to make sure, because if it was still connected to the motor, it could appear shorted, even if it is not.

Also, on the quick connect terminals, you can buy a handful and a crimper for them for a few dollars ( it's been a while since I bought mine, so I can't give a number) from most home stores or electronics stores, or even from Grainger when you order the cap.
 

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If the capacitor was shorted out you would absolutely know. When you powered it up it would either blow up or trip the breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I got a start cap from Grainger that matches mfd, voltage and Hz rating of the shorted unit but it's got quick connect tabs instead of the screw mounts. Can I just get the female ends and connect them to the wires?
 
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