A question for you. My motor is listed as a frame 56 yet has the ear mount but shouldn't there be another frame # for the ear mount? I thought the whole point of the frame number was to insure you have the correct mount?
It's my understanding that the frame 56 means the bolt pattern and flat base will fit that bolt pattern for all those applications.A question for you. My motor is listed as a frame 56 yet has the ear mount but shouldn't there be another frame # for the ear mount? I thought the whole point of the frame number was to insure you have the correct mount?
I wasn't anrgy, just frustrated that you seemed stuck between a rock and hard place and no solutions were forth coming, just jabber.No reason to get angry. But there's no point in fixing the mount because I'm not planning on buying a motor to fit the mount.
That would be true but because the saw was dogging during a cut instead of slipping the pulleys that seemed to indicate to me something had happened to the motor. The saw was stalling on the smallest turn and it was hardly cutting even on a straight cut. Just to go an 1/8" would take forever and it kept stalling requiring me to keep having to back off. I put a new blade on and nothing improved. At first I attributed it to dense wood plus a thick 5" cut and an older thin blade. Usually the stuff I cut is mostly straight cuts in soft materials and maybe 1/2 thick at most. This wasn't a setup that I had done but maybe once or twice before but I knew something was off. A 3-inch cut took over 1/2 an hour and ultimately was the reason I opened the base but I never expected what I found. The motor was hanging by the belt which would explain why it wasn't cutting but not why it was stalling. Rather than stalling I would have expected a good motor to slip the belt.I wasn't anrgy, just frustrated that you seemed stuck between a rock and hard place and no solutions were forth coming, just jabber.
So I offered to cut and weld it for you, at not cost other than shipping.
That seemed like a decent deal to me?
That makes no sense.
If I fix the mount you have, you don't need to buy a new motor because we are shortening the original mount to fit the original motor.
YES?
Yes, the issue could be either the motor or the mount being the incorrect length.As I said early on I don't have a lot of experience diagnosing motors but I'm very good at logic. Before I thought about the motor and how it was acting under a load I was trying to figure out if the motor was wrongly 9.5" or if the mount should be 9.5". Since no one can tell me what's right it seemed prudent to think about the motor itself before I went making changes to a mount which appears in all reality to be original but now I can't explain why they two are not in sync nor even if they should be in sync
Yes I was thinking of having it tested but because the mount and the motor are out of whack it just seems like more money chasing bad. I might call and ask how much they charge for a diagnostic but I can't imagine it would be less than $100 so that's already 1/3 or so towards a new motor. Fixing the mount would be probably $50 in shipping even accepting your gracious offer. I mean a certified letter is all but $10 now and it weighs less than an ounce. It used to be that FEDX and UPS charged $10 for overnight delivery but I think they are almost up to $20 for a letter.Yes, the issue could be either the motor or the mount being the incorrect length.
It would be easy enough to measure the distance between the resiliant rubber rings when installed in their respective locations and the width of the mount between the two ring supports. The fact that the rings failed suggests the distance was not a match. Those rings will last a lifetime of normal use.
But if oil soaked or incorrectly mounted they will tear apart and fail.
An easy way to test the motor's power is to install the pulley and center a 36" long 1/2" dowel in the "V" groove and bear down it with a firm grip with both gloved hands. Rather than a dowel you could use a piece of wood 1/2" or 3/8" thick in the same manner.
In my case, I have used a heavy glove and just begin to grasp the pulley, knowing full well it wants to spin inside the glove, but I'm prepared to let go instantly.
I am pretty experienced with all types of motors, drive belts and welding gloves, but I know my limitations after many years of experience.
If it stalls immediately, then it's probably junk and not worth spending any more effort on.
It if continues to spin with considerable down force then it's probably fine.
There are motor dynamometers of course, but you are not going to have one in your shop.
I think I recommended or you suggested? to take the motor to a repair shop for them to test and check it out.
I've talked about the difference many times. The motor is 9.5" and the mount is 10". Delta can't tell me if it's correct or not, neither can the service centers. Delta used to sell it as an assembly so it was already mounted on the mount and you just had to put the mount into the base which in an enclosed base is a pain. They used to mount them on top of the base in the back. That makes sense. It's easy to get to and you always know what's going on probably not quite as safe. Once it's inside that base you loose that connection of seeing it and knowing it's working properly.Yes, the issue could be either the motor or the mount being the incorrect length.
It would be easy enough to measure the distance between the resiliant rubber rings when installed in their respective locations and the width of the mount between the two ring supports. The fact that the rings failed suggests the distance was not a match. Those rings will last a lifetime of normal use.
But if oil soaked or incorrectly mounted they will tear apart and fail.
An easy way to test the motor's power is to install the pulley and center a 36" long 1/2" dowel in the "V" groove and bear down it with a firm grip with both gloved hands. Rather than a dowel you could use a piece of wood 1/2" or 3/8" thick in the same manner.
In my case, I have used a heavy glove and just begin to grasp the pulley, knowing full well it wants to spin inside the glove, but I'm prepared to let go instantly.
I am pretty experienced with all types of motors, drive belts and welding gloves, but I know my limitations after many years of experience.
If it stalls immediately, then it's probably junk and not worth spending any more effort on.
It if continues to spin with considerable down force then it's probably fine.
There are motor dynamometers of course, but you are not going to have one in your shop.
I think I recommended or you suggested? to take the motor to a repair shop for them to test and check it out.