[FrankC]

I don't have a horse in this race, so it is up to the OP to do as he thinks best, have no desire to compare apples to oranges to simply win an argument and boost my ego.

What OP has with three thin strips to bend twice, once over and then up two make it perpendicular again, done at both ends 1/4" each

An entirely different cradle used as an example why it can't be bent:

 

[woodnthings]

I was talking about how you "could" bend them to decrease the distance between them.
However, any competent welder could saw/grind one of the them off and move it back 1/2" and weld it back on.
That's where I'd be going, lacking any other options.

I don't have a horse in this race, so it is up to the OP to do as he thinks best, have no desire to compare apples to oranges to simply win an argument and boost my ego.
What OP has with three thin strips to bend twice, once over and then up two make it perpendicular again, done at both ends 1/4" each

The vertical mounts are part of the base, The silver metal brackets with the adjustable screw is all that retains the ring on the mount.
You have yet to post a good photo of the vertical mount. How the ring sits in it and is retained.
And how the vertical supports come from the base which would determine whether cutting and weld is a good solution.
I only have my own motor as a reference!
Keep in mind I am offering suggestions without seeing the whole picture. JUST TRYING TO HELP A GUY OUT!

Nothing to do with "boosting an ego'" here Frank. Just trying to help a guy out.
What a malicious comment to make on a friendly forum just as this!
But without adequate photos, my best intentioned advice may be a for naught.

 

[CityguyUSA]

Bending them is not my first choice!
It would be very difficult and they wouldn't end up at the same height if you only bent one.
Not a good idea regardless!
That's why I immediately suggested the "cut and weld" approach!





The vertical mounts are part of the base, The silver metal brackets with the adjustable screw is all that retains the ring on the mount.
You have yet to post a good photo of the vertical mount. How the ring sits in it and is retained.
And how the vertical supports come from the base which would determine whether cutting and weld is a good solution.
I only have my own motor as a reference!
Keep in mind I am offering suggestions without seeing the whole picture. JUST TRYING TO HELP A GUY OUT!
View attachment 448748


This is a long shot, but I was inside this motor repair shop and was very impressed with their knowledge and quantity of motors.
Give them a call with your dimensions and see what they have or would recommend as a source for parts:

Lloyd's Electric Co., Inc. · 2417 Goodrich St, Ferndale, MI 48220

★★★★★ · Electric motor repair shop

www.google.com

That makes sense.

 

[FrankC]

As I said it is up to the OP.

 

[CityguyUSA]

I haven't taken out the mount so the best image is going to be the one at the top of the post or maybe this one I've taken trying to show it from straight in. Before everyone get's freaked about the look at the top where it's held onto the horizontal bar looks funny because I had loosened them but it's perfectly shaped.

The second image shows how much of an angle is generated to achieve a 1/4".

 

[woodnthings]

That's far more informative. Thanks.
I'm still against bending, now even more so after seeing your latest images.
As someone who doesn't like to give up on a mechanical issue and pitch the thing in the dumpster, I'd like to see this resolved in an easy, straight forward manner.
With all my years of repairing vehicles, welding up implements and trailers, and other repairs, I'm still in the "cut and weld camp".
Having gotten to know several machine shop owner, they are among the friendliest and generous folks I've met.
I'd wager a trip to your local shop with your parts in hand and a prior phone conversation would result in a solution at a reasonable price.

If the resiliant bushings and their securing brackets are all in working condition, then the next step is to deal with the length of the mount.
The start up torque on the motor mounted in this fashion would "throw the bushing" in a heart beat if everything was not in alignment.

 

[CityguyUSA]

If the resiliant bushings and their securing brackets are all in working condition, then the next step is to deal with the length of the mount.
The start up torque on the motor mounted in this fashion would "throw the bushing" in a heart beat if everything was not in alignment.

I'm with you. The odd part is it's been working for a couple years. I'm not sure how it stayed together that long. Now I wasn't using it everyday or even every month. It got used when I needed it but it was way more than my table saw. I'm also concerned about the motor now because of it slowing to a stall. Is there more than one thing going on? I guess my thinking is that it wouldn't have slowed it would have slipped because there was not tension on the belt. But that's not what happened. Is there a way to test it?

My last trip to my friendly machine shop was to have them create a longer depth gauge for a Bosch 1617EPS router. I tried to get Bosch to make it right even sent them a video showing how it was essentially 4+" too short for the specifications of the router. They thanked me but essentially told me to go pound sand. Realize they have a machine that's probably fed a rod and I would think they could have faked it out just by hand loading a longer rod. I could be wrong. It is a design flaw but no one else had complained so nothing was going to get fixed. That remake cost me all but $300 now that's a one-off build or fabrication I get that but it was essentially a rod with one side flattened and a screw on the tip which they call they micro-adjust. Maybe 1/4" thick and ,if I remember, 11" long made from stainless.

The old days of the guys in their garages at least where I live are gone. Most of those one man shops are gone. So you have to deal with businesses that are running production lines for other companies that aren't interested in one-offs or in my case I found a company that all they do is one-offs but even their one-offs are maybe 50 units not 1. I guess you can tell it's lucrative but when I walked in I was asking him if he's struggling against cheap goods from China and I don't think he was going to cry but I could see the angst in his eyes. H etold me that most machine shops are barely holding on.

 

[Dave McCann]

Is there a way to test it?

Certainly, any competent electric motor repair shop will be able to ;
(a) test your present motor
(b) determine if your present NEMA frame is the correct frame for your present motor
(c) give you a quote/price on a used frame or new frame
(d) give you a quote/price on a new motor complete with frame

Seems to me this issue falls directly under the area of expertise that an electric motor repair facility deals with on a daily basis. Don't know your area but we have about 4 such shops within a 50 mile radius local to my area.

You can certainly get a quote from a weld shop also.

 

[CityguyUSA]

Certainly, any competent electric motor repair shop will be able to ;
(a) test your present motor
(b) determine if your present NEMA frame is the correct frame for your present motor
(c) give you a quote/price on a used frame or new frame
(d) give you a quote/price on a new motor complete with frame

Seems to me this issue falls directly under the area of expertise that an electric motor repair facility deals with on a daily basis. Don't know your area but we have about 4 such shops within a 50 mile radius local to my area.

You can certainly get a quote from a weld shop also.

I'm afraid this project is doomed to failure. I've been trying for the last several years to get underway and just one thing after another seems to stop me.but thanks for your input.

 

[woodnthings]

I stumbled across a Stumpy Nubs video where he use a 1/2 HP motor with the resilient ring mounts:

 

[CityguyUSA]

Drum Sander? Are you sure the link is correct? Those resilient rings are used by Marathon motors and others as well. You can buy a motor and it comes with the same setup as I have now but they're expensive like $400-$500 regardless of the type of mount. But how much sense does it make to diagnose a old motor, have it repaired and then have to get the mount fixed? I'm justifying, can you tell? I would expect motor diagnosis and repair to be very backed up maybe several months and probably like $300 for the repair and the mount. I'm thinking just take the pain buy a new one and then if there's value in repairing the old motor it can get done and I don't have to be at a stand still. I think I discovered it came out of a pancake compressor which is why it doesn't fit the mount.

If anyone knows any discount motor manufacturers that have good quality pass them along.

 

[woodnthings]

The drum sander video was only to show a similar motor mount, so maybe not a rare as first suspected?
Probably any standard Type 56 FEMA motor mount would work.
And while you're at it up the power to 1HP.
It's just seems a shame to trash a good running motor, considering what new ones cost.

 

[CityguyUSA]

I'm not wasting it. Just not depending on it for now. I knew from buying the resilient rings there are a million different motors. Harbor Freight had a 2hp frame 145 which I'm not sure of the difference but I've seen places where a 56 can also be a 56C and there are 2 other numbers I've seen that are also somewhat interchangeable. They had an open box, 2hp, frame 145 for $149. But there are no specs on the box and the guy that came to see if I was able to find anything didn't even know they had a 2hp motor or if you could call and order a motor that they didn't have on the floor. I tried to explain to him that you can't just use any 2hp motor that there were probably over 1000 2hp motors all with different specs but the blank stare told me everything. He started about purchasing their 14" bandsaw which they could then offer replacement parts on but probably not for a non-HF machine. Ugh! But he seemed to think he was going to sell me their 14" bandsaw which was more expensive than the 2hp motor with 3/4 HP inside. I think it was listed at $349. Jesus talk about cheap. I checked it out just trying to see what motor it had inside but I couldn't get at it without having to remove a one of those brown panels like pegboard is made from. The structure that supports the upper tire is only 3-sided steel not even a complete piece of rectangular tubing. I would think removing that 4th side would be expensive even to saw off but the savings for shipping I guess could be significant. I got the number off he box on the motor to see if I could get more specs. I'm never sure if I should buy certain things from HF for fear of bad specs poor durability being two off the most important yet I buy stuff that surprises the hell out of me at times.

 

[woodnthings]

The great thing about Amazon is their return policy.
This motor Is exactly what I'd reccpmmend for your bandsaw.

Type 56 frame, Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled, 1.5 HP dual voltage wiring, and the price aint bad:

NEMA General Purpose Motor, 1.5HP Induction Motor, Single Phase,115/230V, 1725RPM, 4 Pole, 5/8 Inch Keyed Shaft, 56C Frame, 60HZ, TEFC

Buy NEMA General Purpose Motor, 1.5HP Induction Motor, Single Phase,115/230V, 1725RPM, 4 Pole, 5/8 Inch Keyed Shaft, 56C Frame, 60HZ, TEFC at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

 

[CityguyUSA]

OK so before I go off the deep end. I finally chased down the motor for my bandsaw which I had assumed had been replaced because why would anyone replace a motor mount and not replace it with the correct one? Also the big long number on the motor did match a pancake compressor motor. The motor I have is what came with the bandsaw which makes for some very strange questions now about that 1/2" difference in length. Thoughts? I can't go to Delta Service Centers because as they've already told me they have no information. Delta Customer Service says the same thing that they have no specifications for anything. I just can't make sense of this mismatch or is it? Do I even care anymore if I'm going to replace the motor? Why is it eating at me? Well the answer is because Delta can't explain that it should be that way or it shouldn't. Whatever motor I get I'm wondering if I want to get something that would have the resilient rings and how much difference that might make soundwise and vibrationwise?

 

[FrankC]

Somehow it seems that you are overthinking this, there are literally millions of motors out there mounted in cradles working just fine.

 

[woodnthings]

Somehow it seems that you are overthinking this, there are literally millions of motors out there mounted in cradles working just fine.

Unless I'm mistaken, it's not the motor, it's the "cradle mount" that's not the proper dimension. How this happened is still a mystery.

 

[CityguyUSA]

Unless I'm mistaken, it's not the motor, it's the "cradle mount" that's not the proper dimension. How this happened is still a mystery.

And that's what bugs me. It doesn't make sense. But do you agree that I should get another motor with the resilient rings?

 

[woodnthings]

That depends on your budget and your patience, and how long the machine can stand idle?
There a plenty of bandsaws that to NOT have that type of motor, like the one posted.
If you will post the exact dimension you want between centers on the motor mount, I'll call my local motor repair shop and see if they have one.
That will save you about $200, depending on what that mount would cost, IF they have one?
Also post the name plate including the HP and frame type.

 

[CityguyUSA]

That depends on your budget and your patience, and how long the machine can stand idle?
There a plenty of bandsaws that to NOT have that type of motor, like the one posted.
If you will post the exact dimension you want between centers on the motor mount, I'll call my local motor repair shop and see if they have one.
That will save you about $200, depending on what that mount would cost, IF they have one?
Also post the name plate including the HP and frame type.

I appreciate your help but I think I should get something local in case there are issues. I don't want to have to be shipping it back and forth. I did see that this little strap is all that holds the current motor or correct motor in place. I saw 3 similar motors up for auction used for bench grinders that use this same method of retention. It just seems so minimal or ineffectual.

Thanks so much for all your help.

It's a pretty flimsy setup.