Nothing appreciable. Maybe a 1/16" on one side.
Nothing appreciable. Maybe a 1/16" on one side.Not seeing this first hand this is only a guess, is it possible that the brackets with the prongs have been sprung out making them wider than the motor mounts, can you just bend them back into position?
The measurement on the motor mount from one set of tabs/ears to the other set of tabs/ears is 10".Which dimension did not match up?
View attachment 448702
In your photo, it appeared the diameter of your ring, fit with the saddle, but maybe that is not the case?
View attachment 448704
The arms aren't sprung. They one side might be out by 1/16th". Cradles aren't available on any of the parts sites I've seen nor do they even offer the specifications nor are OEM motors and since most are the same site with just a different store names I don't expect to find any. That leaves me with 2 options reducing the cradle to 9 1/2" or finding a motor that fits the cradle but I can't even get anyone to verify that my setup is wrong. Just because my thought is it's mismatched doesn't make it true.I see that you have two rather simple choices, 1. adjust existing cradle to fit motor, 2. purchase a new cradle to fit motor.
It is hard to understand why you have an incorrect cradle, unless work was done previous to you purchasing unit, if the arms were sprung apart they can be bent back using an adjustable wrench. The fact that the saw was used after the ring blew apart may have caused this.
They are not bent. As I've said a few times the one side mayy be off by 1/16th".Parts like a motor mount may be very hard to find as "individual pieces" rather than coming with the motor as on Ebay?
You're not gonna bend those mounts with an adjustable wrench if they are like mine.
It's gonna take a 5" bench vise that's bolted down on a heavy bench, and even then, maybe some heat at the bend?
They would not have bent from the rubber ring blowing out, in my opinion.
Something just doesn't make sense.
I agree but I can't even get specs from Delta.As you found out force is not the answer.
This is assuming the rings are/ were properly installed.
Unless the base has been bent or twisted, it would seem the base size you have, is not compatible with the motor.
Which still leaves you with the options mentioned in post #3
Seeing as this bandsaw was previously used and sold at auction, It would be pure speculation as to the cause for this mis-match.
The problem with bending them is you will have an angle. Not a huge one but an angle that's not going to be straight onto the motor. That doesn't seem like a great solution just kind of twisting and bending in a different direction. Those resilient rings aren't going to like any angles. I think that's just going to encourage them to want to let go, If there was someway to add onto the ears to temporarily bring them closer without thickening them so that if I got another motor would be undoable would make me happier. From the motor side I don't see anyway to manipulate it to move the ring holders out. Any permanent type change could bite me in the end. I'd really like to know what's wrong. It doesn't look like it has a lot of use or hours on it so to have replaced the motor seems a stretch but replacing the mount even more of a stretch. On that 2nd image you can see I have no retaining piece of metal. The metal that holds the rubber is just that piece that you see which is only big enough to cover the rubber tabs. Without those tabs pointing in towards the shaft you could just put the ring on like a washer.I was talking about how you "could" bend them to decrease the distance between them.
However, any competent welder could saw/grind one of the them off and move it back 1/2" and weld it back on.
That's where I'd be going, lacking any other options.
That makes sense.Bending them is not my first choice!
It would be very difficult and they wouldn't end up at the same height if you only bent one.
Not a good idea regardless!
That's why I immediately suggested the "cut and weld" approach!
The vertical mounts are part of the base, The silver metal brackets with the adjustable screw is all that retains the ring on the mount.
You have yet to post a good photo of the vertical mount. How the ring sits in it and is retained.
And how the vertical supports come from the base which would determine whether cutting and weld is a good solution.
I only have my own motor as a reference!
Keep in mind I am offering suggestions without seeing the whole picture. JUST TRYING TO HELP A GUY OUT!
View attachment 448748
This is a long shot, but I was inside this motor repair shop and was very impressed with their knowledge and quantity of motors.
Give them a call with your dimensions and see what they have or would recommend as a source for parts:
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Lloyd's Electric Co., Inc. · 2417 Goodrich St, Ferndale, MI 48220
★★★★★ · Electric motor repair shopwww.google.com
I'm with you. The odd part is it's been working for a couple years. I'm not sure how it stayed together that long. Now I wasn't using it everyday or even every month. It got used when I needed it but it was way more than my table saw. I'm also concerned about the motor now because of it slowing to a stall. Is there more than one thing going on? I guess my thinking is that it wouldn't have slowed it would have slipped because there was not tension on the belt. But that's not what happened. Is there a way to test it?If the resiliant bushings and their securing brackets are all in working condition, then the next step is to deal with the length of the mount.
The start up torque on the motor mounted in this fashion would "throw the bushing" in a heart beat if everything was not in alignment.
I'm afraid this project is doomed to failure. I've been trying for the last several years to get underway and just one thing after another seems to stop me.but thanks for your input.Certainly, any competent electric motor repair shop will be able to ;
(a) test your present motor
(b) determine if your present NEMA frame is the correct frame for your present motor
(c) give you a quote/price on a used frame or new frame
(d) give you a quote/price on a new motor complete with frame
Seems to me this issue falls directly under the area of expertise that an electric motor repair facility deals with on a daily basis. Don't know your area but we have about 4 such shops within a 50 mile radius local to my area.
You can certainly get a quote from a weld shop also.
And that's what bugs me. It doesn't make sense. But do you agree that I should get another motor with the resilient rings?Unless I'm mistaken, it's not the motor, it's the "cradle mount" that's not the proper dimension. How this happened is still a mystery.
I appreciate your help but I think I should get something local in case there are issues. I don't want to have to be shipping it back and forth. I did see that this little strap is all that holds the current motor or correct motor in place. I saw 3 similar motors up for auction used for bench grinders that use this same method of retention. It just seems so minimal or ineffectual.That depends on your budget and your patience, and how long the machine can stand idle?
There a plenty of bandsaws that to NOT have that type of motor, like the one posted.
If you will post the exact dimension you want between centers on the motor mount, I'll call my local motor repair shop and see if they have one.
That will save you about $200, depending on what that mount would cost, IF they have one?
Also post the name plate including the HP and frame type.
That would be true but because the saw was dogging during a cut instead of slipping the pulleys that seemed to indicate to me something had happened to the motor. The saw was stalling on the smallest turn and it was hardly cutting even on a straight cut. Just to go an 1/8" would take forever and it kept stalling requiring me to keep having to back off. I put a new blade on and nothing improved. At first I attributed it to dense wood plus a thick 5" cut and an older thin blade. Usually the stuff I cut is mostly straight cuts in soft materials and maybe 1/2 thick at most. This wasn't a setup that I had done but maybe once or twice before but I knew something was off. A 3-inch cut took over 1/2 an hour and ultimately was the reason I opened the base but I never expected what I found. The motor was hanging by the belt which would explain why it wasn't cutting but not why it was stalling. Rather than stalling I would have expected a good motor to slip the belt.I wasn't anrgy, just frustrated that you seemed stuck between a rock and hard place and no solutions were forth coming, just jabber.
So I offered to cut and weld it for you, at not cost other than shipping.
That seemed like a decent deal to me?
That makes no sense.
If I fix the mount you have, you don't need to buy a new motor because we are shortening the original mount to fit the original motor.
YES?
Yes I was thinking of having it tested but because the mount and the motor are out of whack it just seems like more money chasing bad. I might call and ask how much they charge for a diagnostic but I can't imagine it would be less than $100 so that's already 1/3 or so towards a new motor. Fixing the mount would be probably $50 in shipping even accepting your gracious offer. I mean a certified letter is all but $10 now and it weighs less than an ounce. It used to be that FEDX and UPS charged $10 for overnight delivery but I think they are almost up to $20 for a letter.Yes, the issue could be either the motor or the mount being the incorrect length.
It would be easy enough to measure the distance between the resiliant rubber rings when installed in their respective locations and the width of the mount between the two ring supports. The fact that the rings failed suggests the distance was not a match. Those rings will last a lifetime of normal use.
But if oil soaked or incorrectly mounted they will tear apart and fail.
An easy way to test the motor's power is to install the pulley and center a 36" long 1/2" dowel in the "V" groove and bear down it with a firm grip with both gloved hands. Rather than a dowel you could use a piece of wood 1/2" or 3/8" thick in the same manner.
In my case, I have used a heavy glove and just begin to grasp the pulley, knowing full well it wants to spin inside the glove, but I'm prepared to let go instantly.
I am pretty experienced with all types of motors, drive belts and welding gloves, but I know my limitations after many years of experience.
If it stalls immediately, then it's probably junk and not worth spending any more effort on.
It if continues to spin with considerable down force then it's probably fine.
There are motor dynamometers of course, but you are not going to have one in your shop.
I think I recommended or you suggested? to take the motor to a repair shop for them to test and check it out.
I've talked about the difference many times. The motor is 9.5" and the mount is 10". Delta can't tell me if it's correct or not, neither can the service centers. Delta used to sell it as an assembly so it was already mounted on the mount and you just had to put the mount into the base which in an enclosed base is a pain. They used to mount them on top of the base in the back. That makes sense. It's easy to get to and you always know what's going on probably not quite as safe. Once it's inside that base you loose that connection of seeing it and knowing it's working properly.Yes, the issue could be either the motor or the mount being the incorrect length.
It would be easy enough to measure the distance between the resiliant rubber rings when installed in their respective locations and the width of the mount between the two ring supports. The fact that the rings failed suggests the distance was not a match. Those rings will last a lifetime of normal use.
But if oil soaked or incorrectly mounted they will tear apart and fail.
An easy way to test the motor's power is to install the pulley and center a 36" long 1/2" dowel in the "V" groove and bear down it with a firm grip with both gloved hands. Rather than a dowel you could use a piece of wood 1/2" or 3/8" thick in the same manner.
In my case, I have used a heavy glove and just begin to grasp the pulley, knowing full well it wants to spin inside the glove, but I'm prepared to let go instantly.
I am pretty experienced with all types of motors, drive belts and welding gloves, but I know my limitations after many years of experience.
If it stalls immediately, then it's probably junk and not worth spending any more effort on.
It if continues to spin with considerable down force then it's probably fine.
There are motor dynamometers of course, but you are not going to have one in your shop.
I think I recommended or you suggested? to take the motor to a repair shop for them to test and check it out.