[CityguyUSA]

I have a so-called Platinum Delta 14" band saw 28-263 that I bought some years ago at an auction. The other week it started dogging during the cut. I didn't immediately realize what had happened. But after spending probably 40 minutes cutting I got tired of having to keep letting the motor regain it's speed. When I decided to change the blade even though it still felt sharp to my hand I decided to open the base. What I found was surprising. The motor was hanging by the belt. What had happed was that the resilient ring which holds the motor to the mount broke through the casing for some reason. But it didn't even make a sound to let me know that something had changed.

Anyway I looked around to find a replacement resilient ring and from everything I had read they were supposed to be a real pain to install and everyone was saying that if you used a screwdriver you were going to shorten it's life. That left me looking for some alternate method of sliding on the ring and pushing back the tabs which were rubber so it could go onto the motor. It seemed like I would need something like a metal or plastic piece, something smooth to prevent hanging, that was literally the size of the resilient ring with the tabs removed on the one end and a somewhat smaller side to get it started to slide it up onto the motor. Turned out that was not an easy thing to find and wood would have to be something that was very slippery from some type coating to prevent the rubber ring tabs from hanging. I looked at plumb bobs they were the closet thing I could think of that might work except mine wasn't the right size and it would have to have the round top cut flat to mate up against the motor. I finally decided the hell with it's longevity this was proving to just be a pita. I sat down and just used my fingers and literally had it installed in maybe 3 minutes.

When I went to remount the motor I found out it didn't fit the motor mount. The mount has 2 prongs that go around the resilient rings on each side. But the width was different. The motor was shorter than the mount. The motor appeared original and the motor mount as well and so I torqued the motor across the mount by pulling it towards the side that had failed. Because of the rubber rings it had enough play to allow me to get it on both sides of the mount but as soon as I started the bandsaw up the new resilient ring exploded. I assumed that since it had worked with the setup in it that it must be correct and therefore went forward,.

So I got the second resilient ring and installed it and as I was trying to mount the motor it ended like the photo below. The rubber literally came out of the ring on the side that was still attached. That was when I decided not to blow up another one and see if I could get some answers.

I decided to measure the mount and the motor and what I found out was I have 1/2" difference between the 2 parts. That didn't seem right to me and so I contacted Delta tech support to find out if something was wrong. However, what I found out was tech support just referred me to their service centers. There are 2 within an hours drive from me both in opposite directions but they suggested that I call first and so I did. The first one said we fix motors. I said so you can't sell me or get me a part or even specs? We service motors and I've told Delta that time and again. OK so maybe just a bad situation. I called the 2nd place. I was transferred 4 times to some guy that supposedly had some understanding of their role with Delta. He told me that as far as he knew that Delta had gone out of business. Again I asked so you don't have any parts in bins, diagrams or specifications in binders, etc,? We don't have anything in fact we don't even sell Delta. OK.. So I learned that Delta, although it had apparently had some type of contract in place for these firms has never visited any of them and gave them a list of expectations as to how they wanted their customers treated or how many parts they should be maintaining etc. I reported all this back to Delta tech support suggesting that they probably should be telling these companies what they expected from them but now that they knew there was no resolutions coming from them I needed to get the specs on the length of the motor and the mount from them. But they told me they don't have any specifications available to them. How on God's green earth did they ever become the company they once were and not have a single exploded part diagram or parts being manufactured for replacement or specifications for torqueing bolts that hold motors?

Sorry about the "story" but I'm so frustrated and I don't really know how to resolve this other than to do what I think is correct and taking the mount which is one solid piece and having it cut down the middle extracting 1/2" to match the motor and then having it welded back together which at a machine shop is probably going to be maybe $150.. I would just feel better about doing this fix if someone out there could tell me that they should both be the same length because they checked their own machine. Of course that would require dismounting the motor from the mount to find out. I mean they could have purposely made them so that the torqueing across the larger mount was part of the noise silencing theory but I don't want to do such a radical change to the mount and then find out that no other motor will fit because they can't even tell me if I have the right motor or the right mount. Maybe I should get a replacement motor with more HP instead assuming that the motor which is a Delta motor was replaced incorrectly already.

Anyone out there a Delta specialist that doesn't work for Delta?

 

[FrankC]

Not seeing this first hand this is only a guess, is it possible that the brackets with the prongs have been sprung out making them wider than the motor mounts, can you just bend them back into position?

 

[Dave McCann]

But the width was different. The motor was shorter than the mount.

I decided to measure the mount and the motor and what I found out was I have 1/2" difference between the 2 parts. That didn't seem right to me

so I torqued the motor across the mount by pulling it towards the side that had failed.

The ring to ring distance on the motor needs match the saddle to saddle distance on the mount.
From your description, it seems the motor and the mount are NOT compatible with each other.

I suppose you have several options;
(a) replace the motor with a motor that fits the current mount.
(b) replace the mount with one sized to fit the current motor.
(c) replace the entire motor w/mount assembly

Replacing the mount with one sized to fit the current motor, would be the least costly option, provided the HP of the current motor is adequate for the saw.

Scrolling down on the page will show you all the frames and specs to match up with the motor you currently have.

https://www.grainger.com/category/motors/motor-mounting-accessories/motor-resilient-ring-mounts

 

[woodnthings]

Maybe I should get a replacement motor with more HP instead assuming that the motor which is a Delta motor was replaced incorrectly already.

If there doesn't seem to be an obvious solution or answers, that would be my course of action.
However, that type of motor mount is quite common in my experience. I would venture to a motor repair shop that services all brands of motors and stayaway from "Delta Service Centers". My local motor repair shop is 40 minutes away and last time I was there I saw about 100+ motors on shelves and on the floor all over the shop. All sizes and brands. They sorted out my wiring issue in less than a day. Very knowledgeable folks there.
My Compressor Duty Craftsman motor has that type of mount:

From an Ebay listing:

Maybe a source for new brackets here:

resiliant ring replacement mount at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[CityguyUSA]

Not seeing this first hand this is only a guess, is it possible that the brackets with the prongs have been sprung out making them wider than the motor mounts, can you just bend them back into position?

Nothing appreciable. Maybe a 1/16" on one side.

 

[woodnthings]

I decided to measure the mount and the motor and what I found out was I have 1/2" difference between the 2 parts. That didn't seem right to me and so I contacted Delta tech support to find out if something was wrong.

If the resiliant rubber mounting rings are that far off, they are not the correct supports. I think if you were to get the next ones based in your dimensions, you'd have far better success. I don't know where you sourced them, but a phone call with the dimension you need may be all it requires?

Notice how well the rings fit in the mount on my motor.
Hopefully you still have one good one remaining as a reference?

 

[Dave McCann]

When I went to remount the motor I found out it didn't fit the motor mount. The mount has 2 prongs that go around the resilient rings on each side. But the width was different. The motor was shorter than the mount.

Which dimension did not match up?

In your photo, it appeared the diameter of your ring, fit with the saddle, but maybe that is not the case?

 

[CityguyUSA]

Which dimension did not match up?
View attachment 448702

In your photo, it appeared the diameter of your ring, fit with the saddle, but maybe that is not the case?
View attachment 448704

The measurement on the motor mount from one set of tabs/ears to the other set of tabs/ears is 10".
The measurement on the motor from the center of one resilient ring to the other resilient rig is 9 1/2".

 

[woodnthings]

The measurement on the motor mount from one set of tabs/ears to the other set of tabs/ears is 10".
The measurement on the motor from the center of one resilient ring to the other resilient rig is 9 1/2".

Are you saying the distance between the vertical mounts is 1/2" greater than on the rings attached to the motor?
Of so, how do you explain that? Was it ever dropped, Are the mounts exactly vertical? Weird!

 

[Dave McCann]

The measurement on the motor mount from one set of tabs/ears to the other set of tabs/ears is 10".
The measurement on the motor from the center of one resilient ring to the other resilient rig is 9 1/2".

As you found out force is not the answer.
This is assuming the rings are/ were properly installed.
Unless the base has been bent or twisted, it would seem the base size you have, is not compatible with the motor.
Which still leaves you with the options mentioned in post #3

Seeing as this bandsaw was previously used and sold at auction, It would be pure speculation as to the cause for this mis-match.

 

[FrankC]

I see that you have two rather simple choices, 1. adjust existing cradle to fit motor, 2. purchase a new cradle to fit motor.
It is hard to understand why you have an incorrect cradle, unless work was done previous to you purchasing unit, if the arms were sprung apart they can be bent back using an adjustable wrench. The fact that the saw was used after the ring blew apart may have caused this.

 

[woodnthings]

I called the 2nd place. I was transferred 4 times to some guy that supposedly had some understanding of their role with Delta. He told me that as far as he knew that Delta had gone out of business. Again I asked so you don't have any parts in bins, diagrams or specifications in binders, etc,? We don't have anything in fact we don't even sell Delta.

Parts like a motor mount may be very hard to find as "individual pieces" rather than coming with the motor as on Ebay?

You're not gonna bend those mounts with an adjustable wrench if they are like mine.
It's gonna take a 5" bench vise that's bolted down on a heavy bench, and even then, maybe some heat at the bend?
They would not have bent from the rubber ring blowing out, in my opinion.
Something just doesn't make sense.

 

[CityguyUSA]

I see that you have two rather simple choices, 1. adjust existing cradle to fit motor, 2. purchase a new cradle to fit motor.
It is hard to understand why you have an incorrect cradle, unless work was done previous to you purchasing unit, if the arms were sprung apart they can be bent back using an adjustable wrench. The fact that the saw was used after the ring blew apart may have caused this.

The arms aren't sprung. They one side might be out by 1/16th". Cradles aren't available on any of the parts sites I've seen nor do they even offer the specifications nor are OEM motors and since most are the same site with just a different store names I don't expect to find any. That leaves me with 2 options reducing the cradle to 9 1/2" or finding a motor that fits the cradle but I can't even get anyone to verify that my setup is wrong. Just because my thought is it's mismatched doesn't make it true.

 

[CityguyUSA]

Parts like a motor mount may be very hard to find as "individual pieces" rather than coming with the motor as on Ebay?

You're not gonna bend those mounts with an adjustable wrench if they are like mine.
It's gonna take a 5" bench vise that's bolted down on a heavy bench, and even then, maybe some heat at the bend?
They would not have bent from the rubber ring blowing out, in my opinion.
Something just doesn't make sense.

They are not bent. As I've said a few times the one side mayy be off by 1/16th".

 

[CityguyUSA]

As you found out force is not the answer.
This is assuming the rings are/ were properly installed.
Unless the base has been bent or twisted, it would seem the base size you have, is not compatible with the motor.
Which still leaves you with the options mentioned in post #3

Seeing as this bandsaw was previously used and sold at auction, It would be pure speculation as to the cause for this mis-match.

I agree but I can't even get specs from Delta.

 

[woodnthings]

The arms aren't sprung. They one side might be out by 1/16th". Cradles aren't available on any of the parts sites I've seen nor do they even offer the specifications nor are OEM motors and since most are the same site with just a different store names I don't expect to find any. That leaves me with 2 options reducing the cradle to 9 1/2" or finding a motor that fits the cradle but I can't even get anyone to verify that my setup is wrong. Just because my thought is it's mismatched doesn't make it true.

I was talking about how you "could" bend them to decrease the distance between them.
However, any competent welder could saw/grind one of the them off and move it back 1/2" and weld it back on.
That's where I'd be going, lacking any other options.

 

[Dave McCann]

Are you happy with your current motor? If so, just take the motor to your nearest electric motor repair shop. They will be able to match it to a standard NEMA frame size. The frame itself is not or should not, be very expensive They probably even have many used frames off of junk motors. Probably much cheaper than labor rates at a machine shop to cut and reweld. Most likely you will have to do some leg work to find out.

If you wish to upgrade, choose whatever motor and base you like and install it. The interface of the motor mount to the saw, is quite straight forward. Four bolts motor frame to the mounting bars. The mounting bars can also be repositioned if desired.

 

[woodnthings]

The measurement on the motor mount from one set of tabs/ears to the other set of tabs/ears is 10".
The measurement on the motor from the center of one resilient ring to the other resilient rig is 9 1/2".

I took another look at my motor with the same rubber ring mount.
I think a machine shop or competent welder may be easier to find than a motor repair shop?, so here's my approach as a "hobbiest MIG welder":
Cut on the dotted lines, secure on a flat surface and weld back together. Any minor misalignment will be taken up by the resiliant rubber rings:

 

[CityguyUSA]

I was talking about how you "could" bend them to decrease the distance between them.
However, any competent welder could saw/grind one of the them off and move it back 1/2" and weld it back on.
That's where I'd be going, lacking any other options.

The problem with bending them is you will have an angle. Not a huge one but an angle that's not going to be straight onto the motor. That doesn't seem like a great solution just kind of twisting and bending in a different direction. Those resilient rings aren't going to like any angles. I think that's just going to encourage them to want to let go, If there was someway to add onto the ears to temporarily bring them closer without thickening them so that if I got another motor would be undoable would make me happier. From the motor side I don't see anyway to manipulate it to move the ring holders out. Any permanent type change could bite me in the end. I'd really like to know what's wrong. It doesn't look like it has a lot of use or hours on it so to have replaced the motor seems a stretch but replacing the mount even more of a stretch. On that 2nd image you can see I have no retaining piece of metal. The metal that holds the rubber is just that piece that you see which is only big enough to cover the rubber tabs. Without those tabs pointing in towards the shaft you could just put the ring on like a washer.

I'm not a welder. I don't have the equipment.

Your motor is very different from mine. Your mount is very different in that it looks like you have some type of black metal retainer outside of the rubber rings to keep them in place. All I have is that little metal bracket that goes around the ring to keep it in place. Now I know I don't want to have any angle in either direction.. I don't have anything like that. This first image is the end that exploded. You can see the new "ring" behind the pulley. The 2nd image is the side that the ring pulled out of the retainer. The motor is sitting backwards from the way it would be installed so don't be confused by the mount being reversed. It's the wire length restriction that made me have to flip it around.

 

[woodnthings]

I was talking about how you "could" bend them to decrease the distance between them.
However, any competent welder could saw/grind one of the them off and move it back 1/2" and weld it back on.
That's where I'd be going, lacking any other options.

Bending them is not my first choice!
It would be very difficult and they wouldn't end up at the same height if you only bent one.
Not a good idea regardless!
That's why I immediately suggested the "cut and weld" approach!

The problem with bending them is you will have an angle. Not a huge one but an angle that's not going to be straight onto the motor. That doesn't seem like a great solution just kind of twisting and bending in a different direction. Those resilient rings aren't going to like any angles. I think that's just going to encourage them to want to let go, If there was someway to add onto the ears to temporarily bring them closer without thickening them so that if I got another motor would be undoable would make me happier. From the motor side I don't see anyway to manipulate it to move the ring holders out. Any permanent type change could bite me in the end. I'd really like to know what's wrong. It doesn't look like it has a lot of use or hours on it so to have replaced the motor seems a stretch but replacing the mount even more of a stretch. On that 2nd image you can see I have no retaining piece of metal. The metal that holds the rubber is just that piece that you see which is only big enough to cover the rubber tabs. Without those tabs pointing in towards the shaft you could just put the ring on like a washer.

I'm not a welder. I don't have the equipment.

I was not suggesting that you weld them!
That's why I mentioned a machine shop being easier to find than a motor repair shop?
It depends on the size of the city where you are located?
The Detroit area is a large industrial manufacturing center loaded with small machine shops.
However, there are several motor repairs shops as well.

Your motor is very different from mine. Your mount is very different in that it looks like you have some type of black metal retainer outside of the rubber rings to keep them in place. All I have is that little metal bracket that goes around the ring to keep it in place. Now I know I don't want to have any angle in either direction.. I don't have anything like that. This first image is the end that exploded. You can see the new "ring" behind the pulley. The 2nd image is the side that the ring pulled out of the retainer. The motor is sitting backwards from the way it would be installed so don't be confused by the mount being reversed. It's the wire length restriction that made me have to flip it around.

The vertical mounts are part of the base, The silver metal brackets with the adjustable screw is all that retains the ring on the mount.
You have yet to post a good photo of the vertical mount. How the ring sits in it and is retained.
And how the vertical supports come from the base which would determine whether cutting and weld is a good solution.
I only have my own motor as a reference!
Keep in mind I am offering suggestions without seeing the whole picture. JUST TRYING TO HELP A GUY OUT!

This is a long shot, but I was inside this motor repair shop and was very impressed with their knowledge and quantity of motors.
Give them a call with your dimensions and see what they have or would recommend as a source for parts:

Lloyd's Electric Co., Inc. · 2417 Goodrich St, Ferndale, MI 48220

★★★★★ · Electric motor repair shop

www.google.com