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Discussion Starter #1
Yeah, they do kind of go together.

The temperature along the coast of Maine is high enough that shirt sleeves are all I needed. However, getting out to the shop on the melting ice was about more than I could handle. When I did get out there and looked around, I almost cried. My wife/girl friend, had not bothered to clean up after making her rolling pin and there are wood shavings deep enough to go over the tops of my shoes.

I don't work well in clutter, so I started. Got the shop vac going and it won't work. No suction. Change the filter; they ALWASY need changing, and still doesn't work. Look up in the hose and something is in there. Whopped it on the deck and two dead mice fall out. Shop vac works fine, now. Let that be a lesson; Filter ALWAYS needs changing, but there may be something else to look at.

Cleaned the lathe rails, tail stock, tool rest and everything around all that so I'm ready to go, next time! However, along the way, I actually found the operating manual for the lathe. It's an old Craftsman lathe that has been getting some attention in another thread. Pretty good manual too. But it brought up a question I need you folks to help me with.

What is "MT?" MT1, MT2, I know, "Morse Taper," but what's that? What does it mean. The manual said I have an MT2 fitting; does that mean something special? I want to chuck up a drill bit for a special project and don't know how this MT business fits. So, any help would be appreciated.

Now, I need to go talk about the mess she left me, but that rolling pin is out where she can get to it, so I'll way awhile. More on that, should I survive it.

Jerry
 

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What is "MT?" MT1, MT2, I know, "Morse Taper," but what's that? What does it mean. The manual said I have an MT2 fitting; does that mean something special? I want to chuck up a drill bit for a special project and don't know how this MT business fits. So, any help would be appreciated.
The internet and perhaps more likely Wikipedia is your friend.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#Morse

A taper designed by Stephen Morse to have the ability to prevent the item from rotating in the shaft, but also to be able to be easily removed.

I have no idea how Stephen Morse came up with his taper, but it works like magic.

Smaller numbers have smaller diameters.

These days MT #2 gear is perhaps more common than MT #1.

Since you mentioned drill chuck, this adds another but different standard taper JT as in Jacobs Taper.

Take a look at this article.

http://www.victornet.com/reference/Drill_Chuck_Mounting.html

Many drill chucks are sold to be used with a JT - MT adapter. Some have the MT integrated which I prefer since one less source of run out.

Grizzly have a good selection of drill chucks.

http://www.grizzly.com/search/search?q=drill%20chucks&cachebuster=1148438556545824.5
 

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Morse Tapers are simply a specified diameter and angle of taper (there are several, #1 - #2 - #3 being the most common in wood lathes, but big metal lathes can go up higher in the series).

Here's a description and table ... though I never cared to learn the actual dimensions, since all you have to do is say "MT#2" and that defines it.

(edit: Dave beat me to the "Post" button!)
 

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Tapers are also made with a threaded end for drill chuck or other items also. Usually a 3/8-20 or 1/2-24. If you have a dead drill or an old drill chuck you can just screw it onto the taper. If you have a drill press most are 2MT and you can just pop it out and install in your lathe as needed and replace in the drill press.
For heavy drilling on the lathe you want a drawbar style instead of a tang style.
http://www.victornet.com/report/Arbors-Morse-Taper-Straight-Shank-to-Threaded-End/1424.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dave and Duncan,
Thanks. I'd suspected that was the kind of answer. So, now I have the information I need to at least ask questions and not appear too stupid. May be awhile before we get another warm day, but by then, maybe I'll have everything together I need to go turn something! Already do, actually, an by then I'll have the scrap cut into acceptable blanks to practice on. Got some good training on a Skew and I understand it's not popular because it's hard to use. Well, I don't think so. Maybe I got lucky. Anyway, one other question; ever hear of anyone doing spindle finishing work with a wood plane? The manual shows that happening. They position the wood plane on the tool rest and slowly lower it onto the surface of the spinning spindle. The manual says it puts a finish like glass onto the work. Well, I've got a piece of broken glass in the front of the shop from a spindle that got out of control, so, I'm skeptical.

Any Thoughts?

Jerry
 

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A hand plane doesn't work as well as you think. I've seen that in several older books and I've even tried it back when I sucked as a turner. The problem is the plane blade angles simply aren't correct for powered wood turning. Much better to get good with the skew which seems like your going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
John,
Okay, I agree. It was in the Craftsman Lathe manual and I simply wondered about it. The manual is pretty good otherwise but terribly dated and talks about tools heating up when cutting wood, so that should say everything.

I like the skew. The last class I took, the instructor FORCED us to use it. Wouldn't let us pick up any other tool. So, I learned the issues and how to work with them. And that raises a HUGE point; TOOL ANGLE. That skew HAS to be held so that the top point is NOT likely to make contact with the wood. If it does, you get a broken cheek bone. Seriously. It's such a simple way to think about it. As long as that top edge is clear, you'll do just fine. I learned that and do okay with it. So, as an absolute rookie, I have one tool I'm comfortable with. It's a start.

Jerry
 
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