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Discussion Starter #1
Finally found some time to build something once again.:smile:
 

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where's my table saw?
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and we are supposed to guess what it is...?

I donno. :no:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Two 1/2" Maple ply boxes glued up.

M&T Pau Amarelo face frame glued to the front.

95% Of 2mm veneer pieces cut on the bandsaw and drum sanded.

Drawer fronts cut, will be sized with a hand plane to yield gaps around 0.003" in face frame.

Drawers to follow and economy veneer press to follow, veneering bottoms, sides and backs of boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Drawer fronts fitted snugly by trimming with restored ebay Victory handplane.

I leave the fronts 1/16" longer, so when the sides are dovetailed, the sides are recessed 1/32" each side into the fronts and backs. That allows trimming the front sides for an exact fit after the drawers are glued up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drawer fronts and sides dovetailed and dry fitted. Snug fit, with zero clearance, wish I can get this lucky every time.

Sides to be trimmed to length, leaving drawer fronts flush with face frame and dovetailed to backs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finishing and fitting the drawers

One of the most pleasant tasks in woodworking is careful and accurate fitting of drawers.

1.) Rabbet the bottom drawer members to fit the 1/4" ply base and dry assemble the dovetail joints.

2.) Cut the drawer 1/4" ply perfectly square and dry fit. Then take drawers apart, glue together and clamp the bases into the rabbet fit. The square ply bottoms pull the drawers perfectly square.

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3.) Next is the fun part, being perfect fitting, I use two #3 hand planes, the drawer fronts are sized to be a perfect fit with no clearance prior to drawer assembly and the planes are used to size and fit the sides and backs. The small Victory # 3 is for a rough fast cut, the Veritas #3 has a special blade angle honed, to prevent any tear-out, meaning it is not necessary to bother about grain direction.

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4.) The high blade angle also helps with end grain on the dovetailed parts.

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5.) Drawers are fitted, economy veneer press (real economy and simple) to follow.

002E.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The veneering process

The boxes will end up as Period Federal style side tables, so they need to be veneered bottom, sides and back. We start with the bottoms.

I use 2mm bandsawn veneer and although this method is a bit unconventional, it has served me well with pieces which have stood the test of time over more than fifteen years, in window settings where they get morning or afternoon sun.

I use only Titebond original.

First the bottoms will be veneered, they will be the bottoms of the side tables, and generally out of sight, however we want to finish the pieces properly. Veneer is Pau Amerelo (Yellow Heart)

1.) Select the pieces and tape firmly together using painters tape.

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2.) Turn over and tape with veneer tape, so the painters tape can be removed later.

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3.) Make the veneer press, which is as simple as a 1" piece of high density upholstery foam, cut slightly smaller than the box. The latter is important, because if the foam hangs over the edges, it will bend over the edge veneer and give bad edge adhesion.

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4.) Glue the boxes and the veneer pieces with Titebond, place them in position, secure them with painters tape so they won't move. Then sandwich the foam in between the two boxes, which in turn will put a firm pressure on the veneer. Clamp, not too tight as we do not want to distort the box ply. Leave overnight and more tomorrow when we remove the clamps and trim the veneer.

013E.jpg
 

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One question, and maybe I just don't understand is all. I noticed you said the drawers have zero clearance, and they looked pretty tight to me. Did you not allow for expansion?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One question, and maybe I just don't understand is all. I noticed you said the drawers have zero clearance, and they looked pretty tight to me. Did you not allow for expansion?
The drawer faces are a snug fit yes. My shop is not air conditioned, so generally the wood stored there will have a moisture content of between 11-12% for North Carolina. Once the pieces move into home air conditioned space, the moisture content is expected to decline to around 6-8% meaning the drawers will shrink ever so slightly and the fit will become looser.

If these had to move to a tropical environment, they may become tight and need trimming, hopefully not in my lifetime.:icon_smile:

Good question BTW.
 

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Looking real nice. I like the veneer press idea, simple but it looks like it would work great.
 

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The drawer faces are a snug fit yes. My shop is not air conditioned, so generally the wood stored there will have a moisture content of between 11-12% for North Carolina. Once the pieces move into home air conditioned space, the moisture content is expected to decline to around 6-8% meaning the drawers will shrink ever so slightly and the fit will become looser.

If these had to move to a tropical environment, they may become tight and need trimming, hopefully not in my lifetime.:icon_smile:

Good question BTW.
You just let me understand something about my own shop I probably need to plan around. Mine is in my basement and it's heated and cooled by the same unit that heats the house. Wood in my shop acclimates to about 5-7 percent a lot of times. If I make a piece having drawers, would I need to make a looser fit in case it swells any at its new location? If so, how much allowance is enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
You just let me understand something about my own shop I probably need to plan around. Mine is in my basement and it's heated and cooled by the same unit that heats the house. Wood in my shop acclimates to about 5-7 percent a lot of times. If I make a piece having drawers, would I need to make a looser fit in case it swells any at its new location? If so, how much allowance is enough?
Here is a table: http://workshoppages.com/WS/Articles/Wood-Movement-Charts.pdf

So for instance for the following condition.

Shop moisture content = 5%
Maximum possible moisture content in summer = 11%
Drawer in Cherry is 3" high

From the table 11%-5% = 6%, thus allow 0.16" for a 12" panel

Thus 0.16/12x3 = 0.040" or 1/25" clearance allowance will do the trick for a three inch high drawer.

For flush with face frame drawers on slides I normally work with a minimum of 1/16". The tables I am building do not contain any hardware such as slides, screws, brads all assembly is joinery and glue, so it is a different animal.
 

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Is that 1/16" on all sides normally, or 1/16" total each way, meaning 1/32 all the way around?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is that 1/16" on all sides normally, or 1/16" total each way, meaning 1/32 all the way around?
For inset drawers using Accuride slides I do 1/32" all way round. You need good slides.
 

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You must have drank some Evaporust. Consider your skills de-rusted.

(Evaporust is not for human consumption. The above statement is meant to be a comic metaphor. I do not endorse the drinking of Evaporust or any other rust removing fluids, solids, or gels.)
 

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For inset drawers using Accuride slides I do 1/32" all way round. You need good slides.
I haven't yet attempted a project using drawers but to be honest I have more interest in sdoing so with all wood parts as opposed to using modern metal parts. Thank you for the information however. I'll remember it for when the time comes. I bookmarked the site with the wood expansion chart.
 
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