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Discussion Starter #1
This is probably not the smartest way to do this and should of used my table saw with the sled, but was too lazy to walk 200 ft to use. I ended up having to make a jig on the table saw anyway and it would have been worth it because I need 48 of these spacers. I needed a way to mount vertical studs into a corrugated steel wall and keep them flat.

I don’t have my shop set up yet and have stuff in 3 separate buildings and 2 of them don’t have power. I need to pull out my belt sander to round the corners a little and take off about 3/32” off the back, but it is packed deep in a storage unit.

The table saw will not let me cut completely through without turning the piece upside and make an extra cut because of the thickness of the sled. It just occurred to me that I might be better off using my band saw and I definitely need a jig. I’m not sure if I should continue with the miter saw or should start thinking about doing it on my band saw.
 

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where's my table saw?
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I like what you have ...

I would make the cuts partially through with your set up, then finish them off on the bandsaw or use a handsaw. There won't be much left to cut so it will go real quick either way. The bandsaw alone may not give you the flatest cut on something that thick ... ask me how I know.
:vs_cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Does it have to be a 2x4, if a narrower board such as a 2x3 would work and can be cut in one operation things would go quicker.
I did make the first one from a 2x3 and it might be OK, but I wasn't felling comfortable with it because each stud lines up differently. Some are dead center while others are offset and I would be drilling through the edge for my bolt. There are a couple of studs that are so that I may have to drill at an angle just to get a nut on the bolt on the outside. I didn't use the spacers on one stud that was half way on the raised part and just offset the bolts, but then I discovered that the studs were twisting as I tightened down the bolts because the surface isn't completely flat.

I tried setting it so that each stud would be over the high point, but the centers were getting crazy as I moved along to the next so I decided to just use these spacers instead of cutting each panel between the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Using a miter box that is about all you can do is make a wedge to supplement the angle.
I just cut a few more with the miter saw and it is working a lot faster except that it doesn't cut all the way through and I have about 3/8" sliver on the corner of each cut. I can easily take that off with the belt sander. It is all going to hidden so I don't really care what it looks like as long as it don't split all the way through.
 

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I just cut a few more with the miter saw and it is working a lot faster except that it doesn't cut all the way through and I have about 3/8" sliver on the corner of each cut. I can easily take that off with the belt sander. It is all going to hidden so I don't really care what it looks like as long as it don't split all the way through.
Maybe if you would set it up to where the cut was more centered with the blade it might cut all the way through.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just cut about 8 of them but I realize now that I should have run them thru the planer for the correct thickness first. I thought I could bring the thickness down easily with the belt sander because I had to round the inside corners off anyway, that's not working so well. I'll have to use the joiner on the ones I already cut because I think they might get stuck inside the planer. I thought I could do this quick and easy, but would be a lot easier if I just went thru all steps.

So I guess I'm going to have to pull everything out of storage and set up shop to finish the shop. My wife has been helping me insulate the place and complains because we have to stop and move everything around every 8 ft. Now that I have to bring out the rest of the tools, she is really going to complain. Just hope she doesn't quit on me. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Maybe if you would set it up to where the cut was more centered with the blade it might cut all the way through.
The first cut is OK, but the second cut t extends to the back of the saw and it will not go all the way down. If i changed the angle back and forth from right to left then I wouldn't have the problem,but that is going to take to long. I don't think I have enough 2x4s so I'm trying to make the best out of each cut.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I tried running the small pieces through the joiner, but that was a bad Idea.

I'm going to start over and do it right. its just not working out.
 

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What is the shortest length can I run safely through a thickness planer?

The pieces already have an angle cut on both ends so I can't really push them through.
That would depend on the distance between the infeed roller and the outfeed roller. I have a 12" planer that the rollers are 5" or 6" apart to where I can run short pieces but the 24" planer the rollers are a foot apart so I can't. The wood needs to be a couple inches longer than that span so at least one of the rollers is on the wood at all times.
 

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The first cut is OK, but the second cut t extends to the back of the saw and it will not go all the way down. If i changed the angle back and forth from right to left then I wouldn't have the problem,but that is going to take to long. I don't think I have enough 2x4s so I'm trying to make the best out of each cut.
How much space is there between the washer on the blade and the outer portion of the teeth? I have a 12" blade on my saw and there is 5" and I am able to miter a 2x4 edgewise on the saw. If yours has a 10" blade there should be somewhere around 4". If you set it up so the arbor is centered with the board when you make the cut it might cut through. Without being there I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How much space is there between the washer on the blade and the outer portion of the teeth? I have a 12" blade on my saw and there is 5" and I am able to miter a 2x4 edgewise on the saw. If yours has a 10" blade there should be somewhere around 4". If you set it up so the arbor is centered with the board when you make the cut it might cut through. Without being there I don't know.
I had to use spacers to clear the back of the turntable or what ever it is called. So it is higher than a normal 2x4 and if I didn't have the piece sticking out in the back it would go farther down
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