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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I cannot get my head around this.

I'm planning an umbrella stand, 16" tall, 8" x 8" at the top, tapering to 6" x 6" at the bottom. Wood began as 1+" thick slabs split from a western red cedar shake block with mallet & froe.
Smoothed inside and out, I have designs for 4 relief & formline carvings for the outside.

Bandsaw straight for the edges is good enough with the carving to follow.

How do I make up a fence for the bandsaw to cut the tapered edges?
 

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Robson Valley said:
I cannot get my head around this. I'm planning an umbrella stand, 16" tall, 8" x 8" at the top, tapering to 6" x 6" at the bottom. Wood began as 1+" thick slabs split from a western red cedar shake block with mallet & froe. Smoothed inside and out, I have designs for 4 relief & formline carvings for the outside. Bandsaw straight for the edges is good enough with the carving to follow. How do I make up a fence for the bandsaw to cut the tapered edges?
You want to keep the fence square to the blade and use a taper jig just like on a table saw unless I am missing something.
Tom
 

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The one I most recently did tapered on two sides and I cut it freehand on the bandsaw just outside my line to establish the taper, and then used my jointer to smooth the cut and bring the taper up to my lay out lines.
 

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I also used another method that worked very well using only a jointer. I saw a YouTube video of someone using this method and I was skeptical, but found it to be very good.

Find the center of the length of the piece and mark it. Also find and mark the top dead center of the jointer knives. Set the jointer depth of cut to be equal to one half of the thickness of the material you need to remove from the small end.

Run the workpiece across the jointer until your workpiece center line aligns with the cutter top dead center line and lift the workpiece off. You now have established the taper angle. Run the entire workpiece across the jointer again at the same depth of cut and your taper is done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think a taper jig is what I need.

Suppose I have a large rectangular piece of pie.
I want a tapered piece of pie, 8" wide at one end, 6" wide at the other end and 16" long.
I need to cut 4 of those.
Even with a mock-up cardboard cut-out of one of the pieces, I stood at the BS this morning in a funk. The 4 slabs have had a single edge planed straight and the ends cut 90 degrees to that.

I can cut all the tapers with an elbow adze and plane that with my Stanley #5. Lethargic sod that I am in cold weather, that smells like work.
 

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Math 4 un

I cannot get my head around this.

I'm planning an umbrella stand, 16" tall, 8" x 8" at the top, tapering to 6" x 6" at the bottom. Wood began as 1+" thick slabs split from a western red cedar shake block with mallet & froe.
Smoothed inside and out, I have designs for 4 relief & formline carvings for the outside.

Bandsaw straight for the edges is good enough with the carving to follow.

How do I make up a fence for the bandsaw to cut the tapered edges?
Robson,
You could always set the block or piece of wood you want tapered on a jig. This would require having holes in the jig and the wood you wish to cut matched up for pins to match them.
Trig answers this question fairly easily. The link is to my favorite online trig calculator.
Basically speaking, if you set the piece you wish o cut on a jig with it's face angled at between 3.47 and 3.48 degrees, you will have the angles sides you wish.
And when using a band saw, if the length of 16 inches is on a surface of such an angle, then with a band saw guide, no problem.
Simply put, take 2 boards and glue them together with a board on top. This would give you the taper you want in a much easier fashion.
You know, have one board straight for the band saw guide, have the second the angle you like and the third glued on top to hold the angle.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp
 
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