I'm beginning the process of building my new shop addition and will need to lay the flooring soon. That means lots and lots of pressure treated 2x8s. What kind of blade should I use to cut pressure treated, presuming I DON'T expect the blade to last the cuttings. It's my understanding that pressure treated lumber is heck on saw blades because of the metallic compounds in it.
Cutting pressure treated lumber
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
This is the one time I wish I bought the sliding compound miter saw instead of the vanilla compound miter saw. Every 2x8 will have to be flipped to cut all the way. Although i guess I can use a circular saw - I just hate using one for some reason, probably because I couldn't cut a straight line freehand to save my life.
do it this way and it will be super fast, measure your lumber, and set your speed square. then when ya mark all the rest of the lumber mark where your speed square goes, lay the square make the cut,
layout all your lumber at once and then cut it all, its alot quicker than having to go back and forth,
layout all your lumber at once and then cut it all, its alot quicker than having to go back and forth,
Joined
·
52 Posts
I think you may be missing a golden opportunity here. Put your current miter saw through the abuse, which will then justify the need for a new, sliding compound miter saw. :yes:
Joined
·
103 Posts
Not trying to push a product here. However, since you say you will be cutting with a circ saw, I'd recommend the Diablo Demo Demon 7 1/4". It'll stand up to the abuse you'll be throwing at it.
Joined
·
4,478 Posts
I've ripped miles and miles of PT, and never noticed it being any harder on blades either. :smile:
Same here, PT is generally wet and soft but I haven't found it particular abrasive. MDF, particle board and plywood, yes:thumbdown:
Depending upon which type you get PT is loaded with metallic compounds, as well as the chemical soup that it is injected with - which of course is why it's heavy and soggy when cut. It may not be as bad as hardiplank or the like - but it definitely will eat a blade.
But that brings up a point, mdntrdr, why did you post this comment: "I wouldnt put my miter saw through the abuse of cutting PT framing lumber."
if you don't believe it to be worse than normal lumber?
But that brings up a point, mdntrdr, why did you post this comment: "I wouldnt put my miter saw through the abuse of cutting PT framing lumber."
if you don't believe it to be worse than normal lumber?
Joined
·
6,422 Posts
If he's like me, it's because he has too much invested in his saw and blades and built in table and fine tuning to drag it out to a construction site and throw 6x8 LOGS on it... I no longer do rough construction for a living and don't have a saw dedicated to it now... 7 1/4", 9" circ & 15amp recip saws works just fine for meklr650 said:
~tom
Joined
·
527 Posts
Watch for splinters getting infections.
Joined
·
4,478 Posts
Cutting any 2 X framing lumber with a miter saw puts undo stress on a saw that should be reserved for precision cuts IMO. :smile:
I haven't found PT lumber to be particularly hard to cut or hard on equipment. It's much easier in both areas than, say, Ipe.
The worst thing abourt PT is that it is often wet and heavy.
Also, the presence of a metallic compound doesn't imply in any way that you are cutting metal or anything necessarily abrasive.
The worst thing abourt PT is that it is often wet and heavy.
Also, the presence of a metallic compound doesn't imply in any way that you are cutting metal or anything necessarily abrasive.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
