should learn the difference between non-drying oil finishes and drying oil finishes.
Mineral oil and the coconut oil that @Kerrys
mentioned are a non-drying oils. The same is true of mineral oil based products, like the Howard brand that I mentioned and the Walrus Oil that @kiwi_outdoors
mentioned. (Walrus oil is a non-drying combination of mineral and coconut oils, along with other additives.) They are non-drying oils.
Non-drying oils soak into the wood, providing a moisture barrier. You should "renew" or "refresh" your non-drying oil finish periodically by applying a fresh coat and letting it soak in. Mineral oil and other non-drying oils do not provide any physical protection for the wood, only a moisture barrier.
The other kind of oil finish is a drying oil like the walnut oil and linseed oil mentioned above. As they dry, they "polymerize", which means that the oil plasticizes and hardens in the top layers of the wood. That hardening provides a limited physical protection. A drying oil finish is not
a hard coating above the surface of the wood like a polyurethane or lacquer finish.
The walnut oil mentioned by @NoThankyou
is an example of a drying oil. Depending on the choice of drying oil, they can take a long time to dry (cure). Raw linseed oil (grapeseed oil) can be used, but it takes a very long time to dry. Tung oil is another example of a drying oil, but it takes time to cure, too.
Mahoney's Utility Finish is a pure walnut oil that has been heat treated to dry faster and be less allergenic. It has a great reputation among my friends as the best walnut oil for wood finishing. Disclaimer: We have all met Mike Mohoney, and he is a good, trustworthy guy. I don't know how walnut oil bought in the grocery store compares with Mahoney's as a wood finish.
I have never tried a drying oil on a cutting board. I wonder how drying oil polymerization affects how the cutting board works with knives in actual use? I hope that others chime in with their experience between drying oils and non-drying oils (the traditional cutting board finish). I use the non-drying mineral oil finishes on the cutting boards, but I use food safe drying oils on bowls, baby toys, and other woodworking projects. (In case it matters, I use Tried and True, which is a food safe linseed oil finish. It is not very different than Odie's Oil and other "boutique oil finishes" on the market.)
A FOOD SAFE FINISH IS IMPORTANT FOR CUTTING BOARDS
Whatever you buy, be sure it is "food safe." Watch out for toxic additives that speed up the drying process for drying oils. "Boiled linseed oil" - isn't actually boiled; it has toxic metallic dryer additives that help it cure faster.