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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Our client had expensive cushions custom made for the two love seats they had on their patio. The seats were made inexpensively in Central America and after some time, they began to fall apart. She asked me if we could make two new seats of similar style and size (so the cushions would fit). Here’s a pic of one of her old ones with the cushions.



After doing some research, I decided to make them from African mahogany (Sepele) and I machined the size of all the components a bit heavier (thicker) than the existing ones. The Festool domino joiner and Titebond III exterior wood glue would create a joint that would hold up well.



We had to do our glue-up in sections as there were too many joints to make before the glue’s set up time (15mins) so we first glued both of the sides (front leg, back leg, skirt and arm) …and did the same with the seats back …and clamped overnight.





Next we brought the ends together with the back rest and two long skirt sections (front & back) and clamped again.



we attached ribs between the front to back skirts and screwed the seating slats to the ribs (from below) using deck screws (so they could be replaced if need be). Then we sanded a final time and soaked both seats in Watco Teak oil and applied a second coat the next day.



A yearly re-application of the teak oil will keep them as protected as is possible without having to sand off the entire old finish before refinishing (as would be the case with a marine varnish or other ‘surface coat’ finish). Now they can do their own maintenance (at each season’s end) before covering them for the winter.
Russell Hudson / www.hudsoncabinetmaking.com
 

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now that right there is some very nice CRAFTSMANSHIP !!!
well done

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, John / love when a client can pay you enough that you can do a project really well / makes work a pleasure
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Teak Oil, George / don't know the cushion material... was crinkley, like a plastic tarp (nylon, rayon?)
 

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From what I can see...that is excellent work Russell...!!!

Thanks for keeping craft alive and well...

If they cover them in winter and do annual cleaning and oiling maintenance those will last generations...or should!!!

Great Job...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thank you, Jay C. / client was very happy
 

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Very nice looking project, Russell.

Next time, though (if you don't mind a little criticism)-- I would not use the "standard" beech Dominos, but instead use the sipo ones made for exterior use. The Sapele you used can handle outdoor exposure, but I've seen many pieces of outdoor furniture fail at the joints when an inappropriate specie was used there.

Moisture has a way of finding its way into the joints and allowing fungus to grow and rot out the wood inside the joint. Hope your piece does not suffer this fate!
 

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Very nice looking project, Russell.

Next time, though (if you don't mind a little criticism)-- I would not use the "standard" beech Dominos, but instead use the sipo ones made for exterior use. The Sapele you used can handle outdoor exposure, but I've seen many pieces of outdoor furniture fail at the joints when an inappropriate specie was used there.

Moisture has a way of finding its way into the joints and allowing fungus to grow and rot out the wood inside the joint. Hope your piece does not suffer this fate!
Hi NVwoodworker,

I don't disagree that Beech will not suffer moisture damage more greatly than a Sipo...We are on the same page with that observation for sure...

With the "toggle tenon" (aka Domino) being encapsulated within aliphatic resin (which will not stop moisture from getting into the joint)...but more importantly!!!...will greatly slow the joint from drying out between wet weather events...this may even be more of an issue...in some cases, but not necessarily this one?

I suspect that Russell knows all this already, and made a logistical/fiscal decision based on budget and durable life span?

Out door (aka exposed) furniture has a life span...It's that simple. With the species he selected, and the finishing method as described, along with the recommendation to the client on proper maintenance annual maintenance, I still believe (from my experience) that they will get a life time of service from what he built...perhaps even longer...???

I make this observation, from building similar with species like White Pine, and other much less durable wood. If well built, and seasonally "oiled" (I use Heritage Finishes and have for 30 years...which is similar to Watco but with more traditional elements in it) getting a life times service from such projects is more than achievable.

Where we differ...

1. I do not use adhesives...at all...(or extremely rarely?) with outdoor furniture and/or structures like my timber frames that are exposed. They trap moisture and promote decay...even in woods like Sipo and other "rot resistant" species.

2. Joinery should be designed and made to "drain water" wherever possible. This is usually not that difficult to do.

3. Tension joinery whenever possible (aka wedges, gravity joints, draw boring, etc.)

4. Traditional treatment elements for the joinery...e.g. copper shrouding, "salting pockets", etc.

5. Seasonal or bi seasonal (depending on location) with a good broad spectrum tradtional Oil, Resin and Wax finish that also has UV and mold inhibitors added...

Those five will keep a piece even made in a conifer wood species lasting much longer than just one generation and or very easy to service if it does need to be...
 

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Ok....NOT to hijack the thread BUT WHAT is salt pocketing???? It sounds like a hole or similar to put salt or type of to resist bugs and fungi/bacteria.
 

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Ok....NOT to hijack the thread BUT WHAT is salt pocketing???? It sounds like a hole or similar to put salt or type of to resist bugs and fungi/bacteria.
LOL...:vs_laugh:...Yep...You guessed it Brother...and it goes back to Biblical times...(and that region onward into Asia.)...Not going find that little "diddy" (and how to do it) in any books in English that I know of (???), and those in the old languages still are vague at best...The details get "handed down."
 
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