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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So just to idiot check myself:

We have this crib, and the conversion kits here and here are $350. I already have some of the same stain from when I made a bookcase and table to match the crib, so I don't see why I shouldn't just make the kits. I've got other things on my schedule competing for time, but this looks pretty straightforward.

I have all of the bolts, as they came with the crib, so I'll just need some threaded inserts judging from the assembly instructions.

How large do side rails usually need to be on a children's bed? If I make it like the same piece on the crib side it'd be 4/4 thick and 3 1/2 deep, but I'm thinking a real bed will want deeper rails. Perhaps I'll go measure the ones on my bed... Length for a double bed mattress is 75", do you make the rails exact or is there a fudge factor in making beds?

This looks like it'll be cake, but that also makes me feel like I'm overlooking something...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just want to make the conversion (rails/slats, toddler bet front rail). You're probably just confused because it seems stupid easy, and I'm mostly posting because I wanted another pair of eyes to make sure I'm not missing an obvious pitfall.
 

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I'm sorry, I was confused because I'm on dial up internet and the link didn't completely load. All I was getting this morning was the top picture and I couldn't figure out what the 75" mattress was about. The twin bed mattress is 39"x75". If the width would allow I would make the space between the side rails 40" and the length between the head and footboard 76" allowing an inch for bedding. Rather than mortising the slats into the side rails like shown I would just put an strip of oak 3/4"x 1 1/2" at the bottom of the rail, the full length of the rail. Since there is no box springs I think I would make the slats out of hardwood as well and screw them to the strip of oak on the side rail. That way if the children start jumping on the bed the side rails don't defect outward and let the slats fall. Depending on how ridgid the mattress is you might need to put a piece of 1/2" plywood over the slats for more support. I think you are right about the 3 1/2" side rails. I think they need to be 5" to 7" wide even using oak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great, thanks for the opinions! And good idea about screwing down the slats... I've seen beds with them screwed and otherwise, but hadn't considered the benefits of screwing them down with rowdy play.
 

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Piece of cake is right. Make it yourself. I will caution that if it's for children we recently had an incident where my 1 1/2 year old got stuck between her mattress and the frame because of a poor frame design (stupid hand-me-downs) that I haven't addressed yet. Don't make the gap for bedding too large. 1 inch should be more than sufficient as Steve indicated.

I've never understood not using a box spring, they're ridiculously cheap and make for a far more comfortable bed (in my opinion) but if you don't have one, definitely put some ply under the slats. Or even a buckie board like used for bunk beds.
 

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I did this for both my boys. Maybe this will give you some ideas. I never completed the article as it was turned down by one of the mags. Of interest to you would be the actual bed rails which are just plywood with some solid wood topping it.






 

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I have a really nice rocking cradle, birch with a dark stain. Both my D1 and D2 slept in it.
I've been hanging onto that sucker for 35 years.
Now, it appears(?) that I will be a Grandpa, likely the end of October or so.
While I'm excited about that, I need to know how to refit that cradle for twins.
Yeah, my SIL shot off both barrels at once.
 
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