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I just purchased a craftsman radial 100. For its age this saw appears to be in near mint condition anyone have experience with this saw? I've never used a radial arm saw just knew there were advantages to having one and since I got a great deal in this one I picked it up. Any advice on setup operation or issues to look for would be appreciated.
 

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What model number is it? It should have a number something like 113.199200 Since the saw is used it should already be pretty close to being set up and just needs a little fine tuning. Do you plan to set the saw up in a permanent location and if so how much space do you have? I like mine set up with a long table with a fence that has a tape measure mounted to it. That way when I'm cutting parts I can quickly just set the stop block.
 

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where's my table saw?
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There are many replies here



To start from zero and get up to speed go to You Tube and watch several of the set up and use videos, then come back here with specific questions. I have a few RAS's including an old 100 Craftsman I inherited. I don't use that one, but it runs smooth.
On your table I recommend 4 ft to the left and 2 ft to the right of the blade if you have room.... more to the left if you want.

I use a shop vac with a small dust collection box at the back and a "Y" fitting to get the hose on the blade guard.

My saw stays at 90 degrees to the fence, and never moves, for crosscutting only. It can be used for many operations and was promoted as a "one tool shop", but that was marketing hype. It is very good at crosscutting, especially long boards, when set up correctly. :yes:
 

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To start you off on the right foot, use a negative hook carbide tipped blade. If you have one that you know for sure is negative hook, that's great. If not, you can tell by sighting fron the center of the arbor hole...a straight line up to the face of a tooth. If the tooth leans forward of that line it's positive. If it tips back from that imaginary line it's negative. If it's right on the line it's considered zero hook.







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woodnthings......nice adaptation of the blade guard to a saw that doesn't have a retro fit blade guard kit available. how about a few more pics of how the lower, movable guards were attached to the OEM upper guard? i'd like to do the same thing to my c-man radial 100 RAS also (mine also predates the retro fit blade guard kit). thanks.
 

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I would sure want more table length on the left side (facing the saw) of the saw, for cutting 8-10' boards to shorter length.
In my shop, I mounted the saw at an angle,so longer boards, stick out the barn door.
Crosscutting long boards is one of the things a ras does great.
As long as the saw locks down solid, I wouldn't hesitate to move the saw for angled cuts. Just use a square to return it to 90 deg.
Now if it doesn't lock solid, it isn't usable, and needs to be fixed. Can be simple or a more pia repair. Don't ask me how I know!
Good luck with it. A ras is a great tool to have in the shop.
 

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where's my table saw?
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That's the standard issue guard for a 12" saw

woodnthings......nice adaptation of the blade guard to a saw that doesn't have a retro fit blade guard kit available. how about a few more pics of how the lower, movable guards were attached to the OEM upper guard? i'd like to do the same thing to my c-man radial 100 RAS also (mine also predates the retro fit blade guard kit). thanks.
It's a bit complicated on the back side with slots and holes etc.
A one side guard can be used and is better than none at all. :yes:

Virtually all Craftsman blade guards are interchangeable since the motor 's housing is the same diameter. A Safety Recall guard will fit on most any saw in my experience... a 12" will fit on a 10" saw. In fact I use a 10" blade on my 12" saws because the arbor is 5/8".
 

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Did you get a manual with it? I have one for the 113.29400 that I'd be glad to mail you. The saw that came with it went to the recall...I hang onto the manual in case someone needed it.
 
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