[woodnthings]

I consider myself an "above average fabricator" having modified or built various woodworking tools from a 3 table saw Sawzilla, a radial arm router and a 2 axis panel saw, but I can't quite picture the modification you have done here. The close ups are OK, but heres too much clutter around the subject. The reason behind the mod. is eliminating having to spin the center hand wheel to travel the tail stock shaft ...right? Replacing that "blasted handwheel" with the more conventional crank wheel seems like a great idea, but I just can't wrap my brain around how it works. Can you post an "overall" photo of the completed modification to show the end result? How does the crank wheel attach to the long bolt? Did you cut the head off and set screw it on? A very creative solution, regardless, good work!

 

[woodnthings]

Well Bruce, you have really gone to extreme lengths to help out here and it is appreciated!
My only question, well at this point is.... why not just ditch the round black original adjusting knob and just use your idea of drilling and tapping the ram for a longer bolt/extension. Is it because there would be no way for it to retract or extend without the center knob being "jammed"? Typically, the tail stock housing is threaded at the adjustment end for that reason. Would there be a way to thread the OEM tailstock to accomplish the same result?
I have an old wood lathe tail stock which I will take a close look at just to see ow it works. I've always kinda taken them for grated, without questioning how or why they work. Thanks,

 

[woodnthings]

I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this, thank you. It does make good sense and I do see how it all works now. One thing I would want in a tail stock with an adjusting wheel would be for drilling a center hole in my work piece. Maybe somewhere someone makes a tail stock that can be adjusted on the tube shaft using a wheel to move it back and forth, like the teeth on a drill press to adjust the table up or down. That would be ideal for drilling center holes of any depth, not just the travel of the ram of the tail stock. Just a thought. I appreciate your time and effort to explain all of this.

Better hurry on this bargain off Ebay!

Craftsman 12" Wood Lathe 113.228160 2 1/4" Tube - TAILSTOCK CASTING | eBay

THE CASTING ONLY. the number on it is 809465 and 70051 is the part number from book. good condition.

www.ebay.com

 

[woodnthings]

Great explanation and photos Bruce! I wondered whether a few posts back IF your mounting surface was warped or twisted if that would affect the alignment of the head and tail stocks? Any slop in the fit between the bar and the milled groove in the tail stock would certainly add to the ability of either the head or tailstock to twist or vibrate during use, right? How did you assure there is no/zero play in this fit? It just seems like a engineering "brain fart" to come up with a design that has "built in intolerance" rather than a design that would have the ability to reduce/remove any play. My experience with metal lathes shows me that not only are there wide surfaces for the tail stock to slide on, BUT there's also a "V" machined onto the ways upwards and the opposite or inverted "V" machined into the tailstock and head to locate them on the ways. Nothing of the sort on this wood lathe.


In my simple world, round things are meant to, or are able to "rotate", whereas any other shaped parts, when mated together male and female can not.... triangles, squares etc. A round bed on a lathe is just asking for trouble, in my opinion.