my grandfather has a Model #113197602 Craftsman 10-inch radial saw and the table is missing he would like to build a new one but for some reason we can not find the spec for the thing i no it comes in like three parts but i need the measurements for it. please help its driving me crazy.
craftman 10inch radial saw taBLE replacement
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Do a Google search for "Craftsman radial arm recall replacement". You may end up with a new table and a much safer blade guard.
One link I found: http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/
One link I found: http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/
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31,249 Posts
you can make it one piece
The 3 piece tables are a PITA to get all lined up. I have made my own and made them longer to the left for easier cutting off the right ends of long stock.
here's what I did. I got a piece of 3/4" plywood that is wide enough to extend front to back and have the saw blade in the table kerf. You don't want a spinning saw blade hanging out in space in front of you. You can make it as long as you want if support it underneath on rails.
The fence is simply a 1 X 3 screwed in place square to the blade so that when the saw is all the way to the rear you can slide a 1 1/2
" thick board along without it touching the blade. Here's some photos:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/12-radial-arm-saw/
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The 3 piece tables are a PITA to get all lined up. I have made my own and made them longer to the left for easier cutting off the right ends of long stock.
here's what I did. I got a piece of 3/4" plywood that is wide enough to extend front to back and have the saw blade in the table kerf. You don't want a spinning saw blade hanging out in space in front of you. You can make it as long as you want if support it underneath on rails.
The fence is simply a 1 X 3 screwed in place square to the blade so that when the saw is all the way to the rear you can slide a 1 1/2
" thick board along without it touching the blade. Here's some photos:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/12-radial-arm-saw/
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24,017 Posts
IIRC, originally the top assembly was four pieces. Two behind the fence ¾" x 1½", and 3" x 40". Then you had a fence 1½" and a front piece 16", both x 40". The reason for the two different sizes for the rear was to be able to switch them to accommodate different thicknesses of stock.
You can make table pieces very easy. Set a piece of ¾" anything (plywood, particle board, or MDF) On top of the table frame near the blade. Push the saw all the way back. Take another piece of whatever you think you'll be using most...(example:...you could allow as much as 6/4), Place it in front of the blade but don't allow it to touch the blade. The backside of that piece would be where the front of the fence should be placed.
From there, you can figure out the size of the back piece that gets held in place with the turn screws. This gives the longest cut according to the thickness of the stock being cut. If you need to cut stock thicker than 6/4, place spacers behind the stock against the fence.
I prefer to machine a small rabbet where the fence meets the table, as a pocket for sawdust. IMO, it's easier to blow it out of that little groove than picking it out of a tight corner. It also allows stock to fit to the fence while cutting. If the table is all one piece, the whole section has to be replaced when necessary instead of just the front section.
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1,302 Posts
are you sure? i've ordered three retro fit kits for three different c-man RASs with the blade guard improvement and they've all come with a new table.
This is a page I did after building a new top for a Dewalt:
http://benchnotes.com/Radial Arm Table/radial_arm_table.html
http://benchnotes.com/Radial Arm Table/radial_arm_table.html
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