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Correct tool for removing shelf edge?

1.7K views 37 replies 8 participants last post by  Marksdvis199  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi folks,

I want to remove the edge of a shelf, but i don't know what's the correct tool to use!

I don't mind buying the right tool(s) that i need.

A video says it better than a thousand words, so please take a look at the short vid linked below where i explain it.

Thanks in advance!

 
#2 ·
The addition of a simple rabbitt all around the shelf underside will achieve the modification you are describing. the youtube videos in this link will demonstrate the methods etc.
Table saw or better yet a router bit as linked here with the correct dimensions would work best. Bosch 3/8in x 1/2in Carbide Tipped Rabbeting Router Bit
In your video I understand that you made , built the shelf unit but you are also a bit of a beginner. your skills in building the unit should support you well in modifying the shelves. Just be sure to properly score the end grain cuts to prevent some nasty tear out of the oak grain.
calabrese55
 
#3 ·
Thanks a lot of the info!

Yes, i made the bookshelf myself.

Judging by that video you linked, i guess i need to get myself a router table.

A question about that: does this normally have the router built in (under?) it or is that often bought separately?

What are some brands or models of table and router that are good quality? Will every router fit under every table, or are there different systems?
 
#4 ·
Actually you can do this with a hand held router and a router bit with a guide bearing as shown. You can also accomplish this if you have a table saw to create the same rabbitt . This video will help there are many more on youtube on the subject. Also if you have a hand held router these are easily transformed into a table mount.
Youtube will show you everything you could possibly apply to the task at hand. The following will get you started in the right direction.
Cutting Rabbets on a Table Saw

router tables
Rabbets Made Easily on The Table Saw

router reviews
 
#5 ·
What he said ^.
A tool is typically, hand help unless it's a "power tool".
A router is considered a powered tool. It can be mounted upside down under a support "table" as well as hand held.
Every serious woodworker will eventually want a table mounted router.
It is the easiest way to make rabbets I know of.
The table saw can also make them, BUT one method calls for holding a tall piece vertically, NOT a great idea!
The other method is to use a "dado set" a series of blades and cutters stacked together to form a wide kerf.
There's a third method where you "nibble" away at the edge making many kerfs until you have eliminated the material, also NOT a great method for so many rabbets.
If you have a table saw I would recommend the dado set method.
If you would like to get a router, then that's also a good method.
For that project I recommend a 1 3/4 HP router that will accept 1/2 shank cutters/bits.
Dewalt and Bosch, are good brands:

 
#6 ·
What you need to make is called a rabbet, which is probably a corruption of "rebate." What you need to make it depends on what tools you already have. If you have a router, you can use a rabbeting bit, like calabrese55 mentioned, or if you have an edge guide for your router, you can use a simple straight mortising bit and use your edge guide setting to control the depth of the rabbet. If you have a table saw, it's likewise easy. You'll just make each rabbet with two passes on the saw, one with the board flat and one with it on edge, against your rip fence. The ends can be a bit tricky because it's a bit difficult to make that cut with the board standing on end against the rip fence. Adding a high auxiliary fence will help with that; just make sure it's exactly 90 degrees to the table.
There are hand tools that are made for this, too, like the classic Stanley No. 78 plane. If you're used to using a more common hand plane, you'll find that easy. If not, be aware there's a definite earning curve to that. Sadly, also, you can buy quite a decent quality electric router and bits for the price of a new or good used Stanley No. 78. Some jointers, usually the larger and pricier models, have a rabbeting ledge so that you can perform the same operation using that tool, but I've never actually seen anyone use that feature even when they have such a tool at hand.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Many thanks guys, I now have a better understanding of the tools required to get the job done.

I have a table saw but to be honest i hate using it unless i have to (feels like a really dangerous tool!)

And based on the linked videos in this thread, it doesn't seem like the tool to get the job done to the highest quality (which is what i want).

Apart from that i don't have any other gear that would help, so i need to buy something.

what about this setup though!?:

 
#8 · (Edited)
Damn, what about this setup though!?:
That happens to be the ULTIMATE router table, way more than you need for this simple project!
There are several router tables shown here from around $200 to $400 US that would be just fine.
Bosch makes a very nice router 1617 VS, for example. You will need the router to mount under the table:
My own router tables use the Bench Dog cast iron top with a Jessem MASTRLIFT2 and a 3.25 HP PC router, total cost around $1,000.

However, for a one time use project? I would just get the router itself, a rabbet bearing bit and an edge guide, total cost $210:
 
#9 ·
I want to remove the edge of a shelf, but i don't know what's the correct tool to use!
Several available choices in the "correct" tool category. Is your preference "power tools" or "hand tools"?
Expensive or lower cost?
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#13 ·
There's several ways to do it. I wouldn't recommend hand tools b/c A. learning curve, B. expense for a decent one, C. you may never use it again or rarely.

If you have a table saw that can accept a dado, that is an option.

The safest way is a router. All you need it a hand held router and a rabbeting bit set. You want a set with a selection of bearings to adjust the width. Test on a piece of scrap first to get the width of the rabbet dialed in.

You're overthinking it. ;)
 
#14 ·
Alrighty, so in terms of a router table, there are still a couple of things that aren't clear to me.

It seems sensible to get a lift so that you don't need to reach under all the time to adjust height, but then how do you turn it on and off?

Does each router have its own lift? Or is it like a standard thing, like every computer monitor has those 4 holes equally spaced at the back so any monitor arm fits any monitor? So pretty much every router is compatible wth every lift?

And then will every lift be compatible with every table?

Sorry for all the questions!
 
#19 ·
I just thought of another option . . . . if you could keep the existing shelf where it is without messing with it, you could cut another piece of wood the same thickness as the metal bar and just insert it into the bottom. Then, it would look like one solid piece of wood as you will not see where the two join. Even if the wood was smaller in thickness, you could use "shims" to make it all fit nicely.
Your call.
 
#22 ·
I think the point is to reduce the "visible" thickness of the shelf for a lighter look?
The router is the best solution. JMO.
It will make considerable noise and dust so hearing protection and a dust mask is very important.
I have a "dedicated" dado stack setup in one of my saws, so that's what I would use as my first choice.
It has dust collection and one fence setting would do all the cuts/rabbets.
 
#24 ·
Hi guys, yes, i want it to have a very slimline look, so i really need to drop the shelves down. Well, need, it's not really "need", it's a purely aesthetic thing.

Yes, i am reading everything! But because quite a lot of different gear has been recommended, i'd prefer to just buy an all in one table that at least has all the basic bells and whistles to get me started.
Cost is not the deciding factor, i don't mind spend a decent amount to get a quality and versatile solution.
 
#26 ·
My own router tables use the Bench Dog cast iron top with a Jessem MASTRLIFT2 and a 3.25 HP PC router, total cost around $1,000.
Yes, i am reading everything! But because quite a lot of different gear has been recommended, i'd prefer to just buy an all in one table that at least has all the basic bells and whistles to get me started.
Cost is not the deciding factor, i don't mind spend a decent amount to get a quality and versatile solution.
That Bench Fog cast iron table is a dream! I have 3 of them.
The JessEm MASTRLIFT 2 is a great lift, I have 3 of them.
The 3.25 Porter Cable 7518 router motors have been discontinued for several years, but do show up on Ebay.
Woodcraft and Amazon has the same size motor as do other sources:
This will get you a very high quality table and router with a lift for around $1,000.
 
#27 ·
That looks like a great combo! Unfortunately doesn't look like the Bench Dog table is available in Europe.

I'm still curious to know:

How do you operate the router when it's under the table? (on / off switch).

How do you know which router will work with, for example, the Jessum lift?
 
#30 · (Edited)
That photo shows two boxes, one has the switch the other has a receptacle into which the router is plugged.
The ON/OFF switch on the router is turned ON and left that way.
It's simply a "remote" switch, that's very close by! LOL.
 
#37 ·
He is NOT removing and edge, rather making a rabbet to recess the shelf down on metal frame.
A flush trim bit will not make a rabbet by definition. Rabbet bits come with different size bearings to create various offsets as required: