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Steve, that is the case for 110 lines, but an added benefit of 220 is cheaper wiring. On 220, that saw is only drawing 6.5 amps which is WELL below the current carrying ability of 14 gauge wiring.
the ridgid 4512 OM calls for a 15A 220v circuit when it's wired for 220. no need for a 12 gauge wire and a 20A 220v circuit, although that's what i'd have used, thinking ahead to the day i added a 2 hp 220v DC to my shop. they could both run on the same 220v circuit.
 

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as i read rbk123's TS power cord wiring modification, he cut off the 110v plug and then attached a 220v plug to the stripped wires of the now "running" end of his power cord. the shrink wrap, as i read it, appears to be primarily an aesthetic rather than "structural" component. here's a quote from the 4512's OM:

" Cut off the 120 volt power cord plug and replace it with
a 3-prong 240 volt, 15 amp. UL listed plug.
 Connect the power cord white and black leads,
respectively, to the "hot" plug blade terminals. Connect
the power cord green grounding wire to the plug ground
prong terminal."

since electrical shrink wrap, at least the kind i'm familiar with, is used for buried wire, i don't see anything wrong with his methodology, provided it's rated as well as the power cord to which it's attached.

FTR, i don't like doing things to tool components that can't be undone, so i seldom, if ever, cut wires, cords or belts (good thing i didn't follow a suggestion to cut the drive belt on a 70s vintage variable speed delta lathe i was looking at. turns out that would have necessitated disassembling the headstock to install a replacement belt!!!). i would have removed the 110v cord and installed a replacement from properly sized SJ and installed a NEMA 6-20 plug. but as i noted previously, i see nothing wrong with rbk123's methodology.
 

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if that's the case, that's a valid concern. re-reading his posting about the cord, i see where that interpretation is possible. perhaps he'll weigh in with a pic of his power cord modification.
 
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