[GISer3546]

Just bought a Laguna 14 | 12. Its the most I've spend on any one tool ever and so far I love it. Even though it sounds like the blade is rubbing against something somewhere, which could be because of a little confusion with it in a few things. Today nearly all the info that has helped me with band saw use has come from the 35 minute Alex Snodgrass Carter products youtube video that seems to be the band saw bible here. Mr. Snodgrass and his 20 something years of experience has said a few things:
1. Always remove the table to adjust your blade guides.
2. Don't use feeler gauges, dollar bills, or business cards to set your blade guids from your blade.
3. Blade should track with the bottom of the gullet over the center of the tire.

these have worked for me so far but not any more. First off always removing the table seems less than easy with the huge 21 1/2" x 16 table I have to angle it awkwardly to remove it when the blade is installed, not an easy process. Second this saw has ceramic blade guides and thrusters (I assume since they're not bearings) with no fine adjust. So his method of "as close without them turning" is harder to use here. Lastly there's no mention of tracking the blade the way he suggests in the manual and with my 1/2 3 tpi resaw blade this doesn't seem to work on my wheels without the back of the blade hanging off the wheel.

So are Mr. Snodgrass' suggestions supposed to be take with a grain of salt or am I doing it all wrong.

 

[woodnthings]

Some photos of the guides will help, but in general the priciples are the same. I have both ball bearing roller guides and Euro guides which are round discs that bear against the sides on the blade.

Your guides are "blocks" or shoes apparently. Some photos of the guide will help, but in general the principles are the same. I understand about the table being very heavy, so you can leave it on if need be. The point being, to back away all the guides and bearings and see what you are doing especially on the bottom under the table.

I would like to see the blade tracking on the upper wheel, gullets in the center or as close as you can get them. That's the first step. then bring in all the guides, upper and lower thrust bearings first, then the side guides.

If it still has issues I would call Laguna Tech Service.

 

[GISer3546]

Here are some pictures of the guides.

 

[woodnthings]

So what is the issue?

Is it a tracking issue, or a noise issue, or a drift issue? Did it just start or was it there from day one? You set up the saw originally, right?

when you spin the wheels by hand do you get the noise? It may be from the side guides rubbing in the blade. If you back them all way do you get the noise?

Can you get the blade gullets to track on the center of the wheel without the blade falling of the backside or being grossly unsupported?

A call to Laguna will determine if the side guides make a noise when properly set.

You got the saw from Woodcraft right? Will they will send a tech rep to determine your problem? Or do you now have to deal directly with Laguna?

Does Laguna have a FAQ site or "live chat" ?

Search for Laguna bandsaw issues: http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&p=Laguna bandsaw issues&type=

 

[GISer3546]

Its mostly a noise issue. I've set it up and it has cut well. During a cut yesterday I happened to be looking down into the lower blade guide and saw a spark, which has me a little worried.

 

[cabinetman]

You've got a good bandsaw there. I've had many different types, and never had to remove the table to do guide adjustments. You shouldn't be getting any sparking. Go to this page, and click on manuals, and then PDF manuals at the bottom. There is a close up guide set up, page 34 & 35.

.

 

[GISer3546]

I reviewed the instructions again and they seem to be the same as the procedure I used. However I'm still getting sparks with the lower blade guides, more than I had been getting. Where it was just maybe one per cut it now seems to be consistent while I'm cutting. While I can see the sparks through the narrow opening in the table insert I can't exactly tell where they're are coming from, because of the limited field of view. The sparks only happen when there is stock pushing against the blade, not while its just running. With the dust and shavings in that exact area I'm worried this could start a fire. I have checked and cant see anywhere that the blade would be contacting metal. I will call laguna today and see whats happening, but does anyone have any more ideas?

Could inadequate dust collection be the issue?

 

[cabinetman]

I reviewed the instructions again and they seem to be the same as the procedure I used. However I'm still getting sparks with the lower blade guides, more than I had been getting. Where it was just maybe one per cut it now seems to be consistent while I'm cutting. While I can see the sparks through the narrow opening in the table insert I can't exactly tell where they're are coming from, because of the limited field of view. The sparks only happen when there is stock pushing against the blade, not while its just running. With the dust and shavings in that exact area I'm worried this could start a fire. I have checked and cant see anywhere that the blade would be contacting metal. I will call laguna today and see whats happening, but does anyone have any more ideas?

Could inadequate dust collection be the issue?

Do you have a thrust bearing for the back edge of the blade (under the table) to ride on, or is it a fixed stop/guide?

.

 

[GISer3546]

The lower guide is exactly like the upper, with a cylinder with a ceramic cap, no bearings. The ceramic does seems to be showing some scaring and black marks where the blade meets it, but the blade does not make contact when theres not a cut happening. About 1/32" between the stop and the blade normally.

 

[cabinetman]

The lower guide is exactly like the upper, with a cylinder with a ceramic cap, no bearings. The ceramic does seems to be showing some scaring and black marks where the blade meets it, but the blade does not make contact when theres not a cut happening. About 1/32" between the stop and the blade normally.

Your basic adjustment for the lower guides should be that you loosen the side guides and move out from the blade. Loosen the two clamp screws that allow the guide assembly to move forward and back. Adjust the guides so they are brought forward and behind the gullets. They are adjusted in to the blade with only a paper's thickness gap.

For the rear guide, it should be touching the rear of the blade when rotating the blade by hand. I'm thinking that there might be part of the weld that's hitting the guide.

.

 

[GISer3546]

Just to clarify, the rear blade guide... what I used to call the thruster bearing... should be touching the back of the blade? I had been under the impression that the blade should not be touching the guide while turning by hand but start touching once there is backward force on the blade... ie cutting.

 

[cabinetman]

Just to clarify, the rear blade guide... what I used to call the thruster bearing... should be touching the back of the blade?

10-4. :yes:

.

 

[GISer3546]

Sounds great I will give it a try. Seems like there're as many ways to set up a band saw as there are people using them. Mr. Snodgrass had some good points but cant help but think that no one person or method is 100% correct. I have started the research in to a set of carter bearings... still not at all sure if the $300 purchase will be worth it but will weigh the options.

Thanks again for the help

 

[cabinetman]

Sounds great I will give it a try. Seems like there're as many ways to set up a band saw as there are people using them. Mr. Snodgrass had some good points but cant help but think that no one person or method is 100% correct. I have started the research in to a set of carter bearings... still not at all sure if the $300 purchase will be worth it but will weigh the options.

Thanks again for the help

Check the weld on the blade or any other high area that could be abrasive.

.

 

[GISer3546]

Will do, I have heard about band saw blade tuning stones and never really understood their use. Would this be it? If I need one would a water stone, oil stone or some sand paper to the trick?

 

[cabinetman]

Will do, I have heard about band saw blade tuning stones and never really understood their use. Would this be it? If I need one would a water stone, oil stone or some sand paper to the trick?

You could use stones, or just a metal file to dress the area. Best bet would be to get a better blade.

.

 

[GISer3546]

It's a Laguna blade, I would have thought it would have been comparable to a timberwolf with the added benefit of being able to trust the tension meeting for once. I am aware that timberwolf and most other blade manufacturers will sell any blade at custom length for no charge but the 115 inch seems to be somewhat harder to find than some.

 

[woodnthings]

wait on the Carter guides

Mark the area around the weld with a felt tip, red or black. Turn the saw on and see if the marked gets worn off. If so, that's your issue and the weld needs to be ground/honed off a bit more. You can use an oil stone or wrap some 150 wet/dry around a scrap and hold it against the side of the blade, avoiding the teeth. You will see some sparks. Repeat until the marker stays on.
Those shoe type guides are very sensitive to small changes in blade thickness. That may be your issue. You can hone the back edge of the blade to make it easier to turn in a tight curve also.

A properly set up saw will rely less on the side guides than you might think. No need for $300.00 rollers in my opinion. Proper tension, greater than you might think, will stiffen the blade and prevent deflection. A good, adequate set to the teeth and fewer teeth will make a big improvement. Blade width is not as important as you might think also.

I have used both 3/4" wide and 1/2" wide with good results resawing. :yes:

 

[GISer3546]

thanks, I'm running a brand new 1/2" blade right now. I will give it bit of tuning and see if i can make it better. thanks

 

[Alex101]

I wonder if you managed to sort out the problems you have been having?

I believe that Alex Snodgrass video on tuning is great, but rember that the blade positio needs to be st up on the wheel BEFORE any of the guides are anywhere near the blade. I made a mistake in not initially realising this and ruined a couple of good blades. So make sure you back off all guides and make sure there is no blade contact at all when positioning in the center of the top wheel. Then you can move the guides and thrusters in until set.

Hope to hear you have already sorted it by now.

Alex