Clogs are to be avoided at all cost, but to be honest in 15 years I've not had one...at least not in the pipes. I have had a few ports clog with long splinters and such. I didn't add clean outs, but I do have a section that's set up as a slip joint for easy dis assembly (one piece slides far enough into another to break the line). That is there more for ease of modification than cleaning. Personally I wouldn't worry about clean outs.
Cleanouts to dust collection?
I'm designing a dust collection system for my shop with 6" PVC. Should I be concerned with adding clean outs in the system in the event of clogs? How do I do that? How often in the system should it be added? Should have about 30 feet of PVC.
Thanks, nathan
Thanks, nathan
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What I did and it works great, is I also have 6 in pvc, I drilled 4 in holes every 10 ft (or what ever you want) in the 6 in pipe. Then I cut a piece of 6 in pvc about 6 inches long. Then cut it long way. Then you can spred it and push it over the 6 inch. It will slide along the 6 inch and you can use it as a door to cover the 4 in hole. They stay put and don't leak at all. If you get a clog, just slide the outer 6 inch piece to get access to the 4 inch clean out hole.
I use a old piece of garden hose to push down the pipe (with vacume on) to break loose any clogs.
These 4 inch holes and covers (6in pieces of pvc) can be added after the system is built.
I use a old piece of garden hose to push down the pipe (with vacume on) to break loose any clogs.
These 4 inch holes and covers (6in pieces of pvc) can be added after the system is built.
Have not had one yet with my 4" PVC system but if I wanted a cleanout I would use a "Y" for a clean out. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the replies. In general when setting up the ducting with PVC and connecting one stretch to another--is it a slip fit and then add some screws or do you use a connector of some kind?
It's done about anyway you can imagine. For me, the horizontal runs were slip fit (sealed with silicone) but the vertical runs all have some short screws in them. Sealing the seams is also done differently. Again, for me I could see the difference in air flow once I sealed all the seams (I have a gauge on the system that showed more air flow). But a lot of guys don't seal them, and some seal them in different ways (tape, whatever).
My run is only about 10ft. I used PVC glue on all seems. I wasn't really too worried about clogs.
A garden house works we'll. I work as a waterproofer. We do a lot of drain tile work in basements. When that pipe is plugged, with mud or whatever else, we snake a garden house threw the system to wash the clog out. It pushes around 90's so you shouldn't have a problem getting the clog out. Of course you won't be using the hose while the waters turned on though
A garden house works we'll. I work as a waterproofer. We do a lot of drain tile work in basements. When that pipe is plugged, with mud or whatever else, we snake a garden house threw the system to wash the clog out. It pushes around 90's so you shouldn't have a problem getting the clog out. Of course you won't be using the hose while the waters turned on though
Im actually in lowes as we speak. The only 6" S & D pipe they have is astm f 891-10. Will that work for ducting? Others had previously recommended other astms.BigJoe16 said:My run is only about 10ft. I used PVC glue on all seems. I wasn't really too worried about clogs. A garden house works we'll. I work as a waterproofer. We do a lot of drain tile work in basements. When that pipe is plugged, with mud or whatever else, we snake a garden house threw the system to wash the clog out. It pushes around 90's so you shouldn't have a problem getting the clog out. Of course you won't be using the hose while the waters turned on though
deadherring said:Im actually in lowes as we speak. The only 6" S & D pipe they have is astm f 891-10. Will that work for ducting? Others had previously recommended other astms.[/QUOTE
You should go to a plumbing wholesaler. They will have better selection and prices.
You won't need schedule 40 pipe. That's sewer pipe. The walls will be overly thick and you'll just be wasting money.
Schedule 35 is standard drainage pipe. That will be more than good enough for DC usage.
OK, I'm going to do that, thanks Big Joe. Live and learn.
When using pvc for DC you will get lots of static build up in the pipe.Make sure you run a ground wire thru the pipe to a proper ground.
That has been proven not effective. Sure you will get some static more in dry climates. The more humidity in the air the less static should build. Before we get on the static explosion risk someone always seems to mention. It exist in theory only for a home shop. You will never create enough fine dust for it to be a reality.When using pvc for DC you will get lots of static build up in the pipe.Make sure you run a ground wire thru the pipe to a proper ground.
Seriously if your using 4" duct and definitely 6" duct it would take a lot to block. Again in theory a clean out would be a good idea. However in reality I doubt you ever need them.
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