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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With your help, I was directed to a really nice full size craftsman table saw on my local craigslist. I got it for a song and a dance, and the only drawbacks are that it could use a new belt and the surface is rusted.

What do I do about the surface rust? It can mark pieces I'm cutting, which will cause me problems when I'm staining my workpieces. I have heard steel wool will clean up the surface, but I don't know if you might have tips on how to go about this... Looking for advice before I take a glob of steel wool and just start putting elbow grease into it.

I have heard there are better options than just replacing the vbelt, like a chain belt of some kind. I haven't seen anything like that. Pointers?

There was no riving knife or safety shield when I bought it. There looks to be a standard mounting point where the motor hangs off the back. Where should I find a knife, and is there a good deal or good quality one I should look for?

Finally, the throat insert is standard, but I'm just starting to build a 9 foot dining table for my wife's birthday, and I think a zero clearance insert would help make my edges cleaner. Can I buy any zero clearance insert? Or do I need to match it to the kerf on the blade?

I don't know anything about this stuff. If the questions sound stupid, its because I am! If you can explain like I'm five, that may help. :) Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool solution, cheap too which fits my ideal budget, but I lack a router. Eventually I could likely use one, but can't justify it for any currently planned projects.

Probably best for me to stick to commercially available inserts for now. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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Check out Leecraft inserts on Amazon... I bought one for my 113.298032 Craftsman... It fit perfectly.... About $24.00.

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
 

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Toolguy1000 showed me this video when I was cleaning my first vintage craftsman table saw:


I tried electrolysis and a wire brush before sandpaper. Sandpaper was a lot more effective and many times quicker than the other methods. you just have to be careful since you don't want to get too crazy removing material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I feel comfortable with the throat insert, cleaning up the top, and upgrading the belt. I did some other reading too last night about how other people clean and treat their cast iron, so that will help.

What about a knife/splitter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks Robbin, I'll check that out.

Here's a little bit of progress today on the table top, just farting around to see how hard it would be to clean it up.

This is what I started with:
Wood Table Floor Plywood Wood stain

This is what it looks like after I took a flat scraper too it, which got off a lot of the built up rust:
Wood Table Plywood Games Metal

This is what I ended up with, after using WD40 and 220 grit sandpaper (by hand, wrapped the sandpaper around a block):
Table Wood Metal Gas Steel

Not sure what this kind of discoloration is, but I don't think I should care. It would be nice to make it look like the day it was bought, but I remind myself that my goal here is to cut wood without giving it rust streaks.
Floor Wood Roof Concrete Steel

I haven't addressed the wings yet. But seems like it isn't too hard to take the rust off this way. I'll probably hit the top of the wings, and give some finer attention to detail to the table a bit later.
 

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Not sure what this kind of discoloration is, but I don't think I should care. It would be nice to make it look like the day it was bought, but I remind myself that my goal here is to cut wood without giving it rust streaks.
Good progress. As you experienced, the rust does come off fast.

The dis-coloration could be from so many potential sources over the years.

I am seeing the original machining marks, so they may be difficult to remove.

FYI, this is a good product to have around for removing rust stains on steel surfaces. May be available at local auto-parts stores. I got a tube from Lee Valley while placing an order.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67014&cat=1,43415,43439,67014
 

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Try not to sand too much on one spot, you'll make shallow spots. When I did my cast iron I took care to make solid strokes from front to back. Ideally, you'd be removing a perfectly even layer of metal across the entire surface of the table and wings. When you go to town on just one spot, you're removing a lot more metal in those areas. Also keep in mind that the end goal is to get wood to run smoothly across the surface. If it looks great when you're done, fine. But when I was doing my saw, I quickly realized I'd spent WAY more time than made sense for what it was(a 30-year old consumer grade saw).
 

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You can get a great guard and splitter at: http://leestyron.com/crman.php
The only drawback is the long wait for it.

I think I have the original guard and splitter for a man 113.***x (all except the part the shark guard mounts to. Pm me if you want it. I will ship it for the cost of shipping.

I used a link belt I bought at harbor freight and have been happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I went with constantly moving spiral patterns Robbin, consistently moving across the surface. I was pretty careful to keep the work even, and I didn't use any pressure to speak of.

YHPM pop pop, thanks for the offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I finished off the wings, and I am satisfied with how it looks. Should be effective. I need to put some paste on it yet to prevent it from rerusting, though my garage is dryer than where the previous owner stored it.

I ordered the leecraft zero clearance insert from amazon. Also the pulley and link belt kit from inline industries.

Going to wait for pop pop if he can ship me his extra Splitter/guard, and that will save me a few bucks against going one of the other options suggested.
 

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I had a 113 a long time ago. The top casting was warped. You can sand that top till the cows come home without worry of messing it up. The saw will be better than new if you do. I had to torc the top back into flat with a mess of clamps and wood shims. You also should just make some wings out of plywood torsion boxes. It will be much easier to work with if you do. The link belt kit is a great idea and will greatly help with vibration. Before I sold it I put a 52" Biesemeyer fence on it.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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Al B Thayer said:
I had a 113 a long time ago. The top casting was warped. You can sand that top till the cows come home without worry of messing it up. The saw will be better than new if you do. I had to torc the top back into flat with a mess of clamps and wood shims. You also should just make some wings out of plywood torsion boxes. It will be much easier to work with if you do. The link belt kit is a great idea and will greatly help with vibration. Before I sold it I put a 52" Biesemeyer fence on it.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
My 113 sat for 10 years unused.... I used a fine grit on my belt sander, and went after it.... It cleaned up like new....
I keep it waxed now, and have had no rust.....

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had a 113 a long time ago. The top casting was warped. You can sand that top till the cows come home without worry of messing it up. The saw will be better than new if you do. I had to torc the top back into flat with a mess of clamps and wood shims. You also should just make some wings out of plywood torsion boxes. It will be much easier to work with if you do. The link belt kit is a great idea and will greatly help with vibration. Before I sold it I put a 52" Biesemeyer fence on it.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
Thanks for the comment. What is better about the plywood wings versus the stock cast wings?

A biesemeyer would be cool, but I've gotta say this exact-i-rip fence leaves me very happy so far, so upgrading from this is likely not in my cards.
 

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Presumably the plywood would be lighter, and of course some people don't like all the gaps in the grated cast iron, like you have. I will say that I wouldn't want plywood in my wings. Maybe melamine or MDF, but plywood likes to warp sometimes. Probably not too much in a 12 x 27 piece, but I'd rather not mess with it.

You'll likely have to play the shim game with home-made wings, too. I jointed and planed my wings frames so I didn't have to. They just were flat enough out of the gate. I was surprised, actually. If you decide to make some, you could probably find a lumber yard or local woodworker who could plane and joint the boards for you.

 
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