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Discussion Starter #1
I recently got a bandsaw and set it up. I think I have it well set up, but I'm getting a pretty rough cut. It's not smooth like the table saw or scroll saw. It's got ridges all across it. I can cut down to about 1/16" pretty easily, but it's always an ugly cut that needs a run through the planer. Unfortunately, I don't know how to run 1/16" wood through a planer, or if it can even be done.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks that I can make use of to try and clean up the cuts? I'd like to actually be able to use some of the thin veneers, but I need them much cleaner than they are now.
 

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The blade you are using can make a difference. You do not state the tpi, or blade type. Even the best blade design for whatever you are cutting will not be a smooth cut on a bandsaw. The cuts always need some clean-up.

1/16in slices would be best cleaned up by mounting on a sled with double sided tape and running through a drum sander.
 

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a rough cut

The fewer the teeth per inch in the blade, the more rough the cut. The more teeth in the blade the finer the cut. NOW the dilema is the fewer tooth blade will cut faster and easier like for resawing. The more teeth per inch in the blade will result in a smoother cut.

You will need different blades for different tasks. A wide blade won't turn in a tight radius. I find that a 3 TPI - 1/2" blade will resaw just fine if the stock is less than 6", for stock thicker than that I use a 3/4" wide blade. A 3/8" - 6 TPI blade is a good compromise between easy cutting and turning a smaller radius. For really tight radii I use a 1/4" wide blade.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm using whatever type blade came with the bandsaw. After taking some measurements, it's 5 tpi and 1/2" wide, or deep, whichever is right.

Here's a pic of it.
Bandsaw blade.jpg

Also, here's a pic of the cut surface that I'm talking about with a penny for size reference.
Rough cut with penny.jpg

I realize resawing with 5tpi is not ideal, but with such a small piece of cherry, I don't think that's the issue.
 

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This really looks like a blade quality issue. Most blades that ship with saws are really low quality. Get yourself a nice resaw blade and it will make a world of difference. However, you'll still need to clean up the surface after cutting. Drum sanders are great for this application.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it's likely a blade quality issue, can you suggest a good quality blade manufacturer for 131.5" blades? Sorry for the idiot question, but I know nothing of bandsaw blades.
 

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If it's likely a blade quality issue, can you suggest a good quality blade manufacturer for 131.5" blades? Sorry for the idiot question, but I know nothing of bandsaw blades.
Most blade manufacturers will make a blade of any length. You length is the same as on my Grizzly G0513 17in band saw.

A number of threads on the forum on bandsaw blades.

I use Timberwolf blades.
http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php

Some folks like SuperCut.

Some folks like Lennox.

For resawing some folks like the Highland Hardware Woodslicer.

Pick one.

Most blade provided with the bandsaw are not very good, so get dull fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Most blade manufacturers will make a blade of any length. You length is the same as on my Grizzly G0513 17in band saw.
Mine's the same length because mine is essentially the same saw. It's the 513 anniversary edition. I was going to get the 513, but then noticed that the anniversary edition was $100 cheaper and came with a "special" paint job as the only difference. Why not save $100 and get the "special" paint job?

I'll check out those companies. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I might have this all wrong, but I'm thinking that these four blades should cover everything I'll want to do. This blade for resawing. This blade for roughing out bowl blanks or milling small green logs, if I ever do that. Can you use the one I have linked for resawing for that too, or does the green wood require a different blade? This one for general ripping or crosscuts that I don't do on the table saw for whatever reason. And this one for the occasional scrolling type cuts I may want to make. I think these are decent selections for the intended task, but if you see something glaringly wrong with it, please let me know.

I noticed that these blades list a minimum thickness in addition to a maximum thickness. That seems odd, since by my thinking if it can cut 1" thick wood, it should do just as well if not better with a 1/4" thick piece. Am I missing something?
 
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