Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am restoring a 1959 chevy truck with an oak bed. I plan on using 100 % tung oil starting with a 50/50 mix with mineral spirits to get a good penetration. I'd like to add some color to the wood like a dark walnut stain before the tung oil but don't want to interfere with tung oil getting into the wood really good. An oil based stain would probably prevent some of the tung oil absorbing. Would a water based stain work better? What product do you recommend? These trucks came painted from the factory but I like the look of the wood. Is there a dye that would work?
 

· Super Moderator
Retired Craftsman
Joined
·
6,035 Posts
Welcome to the forum, Popeye. That's a really nice project you are working on.
Are you using red or white oak? Will the truck live outside, under a carport or in a garage?
In the boating world, those that use "red oak" for anything on the boat that lives 90% in the elements, will soon suffer from finish failure which leads to water wicking into the open grain. (and we know the end result of that). To "help" ward off mildew, fungus, and other ugly things that like the underside of wet wood, I would suggest Pure Gum Turpentine vs Mineral Spirits for the first few soaking coats. Then, the subsequent coats can be mixed with MS.
Adhesive Automotive tire Rectangle Font Automotive wheel system
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum, Popeye. That's a really nice project you are working on.
Are you using red or white oak? Will the truck live outside, under a carport or in a garage?
In the boating world, those that use "red oak" for anything on the boat that lives 90% in the elements, will soon suffer from finish failure which leads to water wicking into the open grain. (and we know the end result of that). To "help" ward off mildew, fungus, and other ugly things that like the underside of wet wood, I would suggest Pure Gum Turpentine vs Mineral Spirits for the first few soaking coats. Then, the subsequent coats can be mixed with MS.
View attachment 445110
It is red oak but will be garaged most of the time. This will be my daily driver so it will be out in the elements 5 or 6 hours a week . I plan on putting automotive clear over the tung oile. The same stuff that goes on the body of the truck after paint. It contains UV protectors. I know i'll have upkeep. I will look into the pure gum turp. Any thoughts on staining prior to this
 

· Super Moderator
Retired Craftsman
Joined
·
6,035 Posts
Way long time ago, I did my BIL's '53 Chevy pickup bed with red oak way before I knew what I was doing with clear finishes and used West Systems epoxy. Looked awesome. He sold it shortly thereafter and the new owner tracked me down a few years later to see what the heck I used on the wood as the finish was peeling off in sheets and rot was in the wood. He held no grudge on me and wanted me to make another set of boards out of Locust wood. By that time, I had a better grip on the UV properties of clear finishes. I made the boards for him and he finished them himself. (whew). I learned a lot more by piddling around wooden boats or boats with wooden stuff on them.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,980 Posts
Is using white oak an option? Although it may look a little like red oak, remember it has closed pores and does not leak.
Hence the use for all sorts of liquor barrels. All the various wooden parts in a Model T Ford are Red Oak.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
I’d personally skip the tung oil, stain, and automotive clear and use something like Milesi’s Hydrocrom self sealing all-in-one impregnator/color coat/top coat.


Edit:
The following was finished with Hydrocrom which is a 2K urethane w/a UV package.

Image.jpeg
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
4,800 Posts
+1 on skipping the tung oil. I think your looking for trouble with that.

I recommend you check the Total Boat products. They are specifically made just for applications like this.

I would use a gel stain to even out the tint.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,065 Posts
Welcome to the forum, Popeye. That's a really nice project you are working on.
Are you using red or white oak? Will the truck live outside, under a carport or in a garage?
In the boating world, those that use "red oak" for anything on the boat that lives 90% in the elements, will soon suffer from finish failure which leads to water wicking into the open grain. (and we know the end result of that). To "help" ward off mildew, fungus, and other ugly things that like the underside of wet wood, I would suggest Pure Gum Turpentine vs Mineral Spirits for the first few soaking coats. Then, the subsequent coats can be mixed with MS.
View attachment 445110
thanks john! popeye was on a truck forum where people were suggesting all sorts of hard clear finishes. all clear finishes with crack and come off. i suggested similar treatments. welcome here popeye!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,065 Posts
You name it. Automotive clear coat was the most popular believe it or not. Followed by spar varnish. I go to a lot of car shows, if the bed has clear coat and looks good, it's a new build. Cuz typically any clear coat finish looks like crap after a season
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top